Archive through February 21, 2010

[tdaugherty]

I read the FAQ on my charging system, but is there a way to test the generator while the tractor is running? I have a multimeter, and i figure that would tell me if it was the problem, or if the regulator is at fault. Is there a way to test regulators? Thanks.

 

[mgonitzke]

Take a test lead and temporarily (as in, not for more than a second or two) ground the field terminal on the starter/generator while the engine is running. It should peg the ammeter to the charge side. If not, the generator isn't working. If it does, then the regulator needs adjustment. The service manual has some instructions for adjusting the regulator that I have used with limited success.

 

[dfrisk]

MATT G, Kendell - I don't think the red sealer is Glyptal. Back when I was at FARMALL I had to call all the foundries I dealt with every night to get the shipments for delivery the next day. I actaully called the painting companies who dipped the parts.
It's more of a red oxide sealer, definetly not epoxy. As I've said before, most raw casting storage was outside, so the sealer protected the raw casting from rust, plus sealed any sand left sticking to the inside surface. It did improve oil drain back. If I remember correctly Glyptal formed a shiny smooth surface and the sealer IH used was more of a matte or satin finish.

GARY C. - Maybe it's because the basket attached to my S/G drive pulley is worn so much but I don't have ANY success getting those anti-rattle clips to stay in my PTO clutch. Yes, it sounds like a rod knock, but as long as it keeps "Knocking" life is good! When and IF it ever goes BANG then I have a problem.

TOM H. - I hope You get the 12 inches of snow IF You want it. We've got about an INCH here 70 miles to the North and I think We're done now.

 

[kide]

Dennis:
Coulda fooled me.......

I knew it wasn't epoxy, but looked like Glyptal from other places I'd seen it, plus I knew it'd been used widely for sealing castings to lock in any sand not knocked out in the mfrg. process..

 

[jmuncie]

It's the same color as Glyptal, but if Dennis is correct (and I'd bet he is) about the flat finish is must be something else because Glyptal has a shiny, slick finish. I assumed it was Glyptal because when covered in Hytran it has a slick, glossy finish. I used to buy it from a local electrical motor rebuilder. Eastwood's started carrying it in the early 90s. The Eastwood's site doesn't say, but I believe it's an enamel--at least everyone used to call it Glyptal enamel. I haven't had a can around it 15 years.

Jerry

 

[rmay]

Good afternoon! I'm broke down in the driveway with my 149, engine runs, but drive shaft is not turning from the engine back. I don't have a repair manual, is there anything online? Can someone point me to an archived manual? HELP!

 

[dtanner]

Roger May
you have broke the coiled roll pin at the engine side of the drive shaft. do you have another pin?

 

[rmay]

no, do I need to pull the drive shaft?

 

[dfrisk]

JERRY - Yes, next time You have the rearend of a CC apart hit the inside with a stream of Brake-Kleen. Definitely not a shiny glossy surface on the IH sealer.

 

[jstorma]

Did IH or CC ever publish how much max weight you could add on to the front or rear of cub cadet? And is that addition to attachments?

 

[jbaker]

Roger Not to correct Don But it is not a roll pin it is a 1/4 inch by 1 1/2 steel dowel pin part #19837-r1 I just replaced mine, the local dealer had it in stock. with a little luck you can line up the hole get old one out and install new with out pulling drive shaft. chack the parts lookup your model is 2050047u

 

[digger]

Roger M.
I just sent you a link to download the Service Manual.

To you and others,
NOW would be a good time to click the Binder Books link at the top of the page and ORDER manuals for your Cubs before they break down!

 

[mstetar]

just to get it out of the drive way ive used a piece of a thick nail and put some of the handy man's secreat weapon (duck tape) around the shaft to hold it in... definately not permanant but good enoug hto limp back to the garage!

 

[rmay]

Thanks everybody for the help, and especially Digger. I'll be ordering the manual today!

 

[fcurrier]

This page needs a pic:

This is an example of what can happen when you befriend a Crazy Canadian who has yellow fever.
God bless him! Was able to work in the Cubhouse today without a fire. If this keeps up I can move out of the cellar! Next step is to drain the transmission and pull the axles. The trunnion on this is A#1, so the pump will get swapped into my #1 149. Life is good!

 

[digger]

Yep,
Even when it don't belong, huh Frank.

And no I cut no one any slack!

 

[fcurrier]

Let me rephrase: I found a ported pump with an almost perfect trunnion that I'm going to install in my

made 149.

 

[digger]

Nice save!

 

[dtanner]

Frank C
that assembly might not work on your 149 as the Cam pivot IH548055-R2 and the 1811 is 703-0196 . I don`t know what the difference is but they do have different part numbers.
A quiet day here and tomorrow will be working on my Original and some priming of parts that have been glass blasted.
Thanks Don T

 

[fcurrier]

Where's the "Don's raining on my parade" emoticon? I'm gonna be really bummed if the 1811 hydro pump doesn't bolt into a 149.