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Archive through February 20, 2011
- Thread starter eferguson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Eric F.
Where's all the WHITE STUFF that's supposed to be on the ground this time of year!
Where's all the WHITE STUFF that's supposed to be on the ground this time of year!
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Norm B. It has been a hectic weekend and I apologize for not clarifying things better.
When converting a non ported pump to a ported pump or when simply taking a 15U Series pump apart.
ONE ... Build a BOX or something to hold the pump so that the aluminum housing rests inside the box and the cast steel part is positoned facing upwards.
TWO... THOROUGHLY CLEAN EVERYTHING on the pump so that no contaminants will enter the pump during diassembly.
THREE... Once the pump is placed on the framework built to hold the housing. REMOVE the bolts that hold the two housings together. Lift the top casting piece from the aluminum housing. It is now possible that the valve plates may fall from the top housing so be aware of this when removing so that the valve plates aren't damaged during the removal process.
<font color="0000ff">You need not worry about any springs or pieces flying out and surprising you and leaving you wondering where they go when separating the two housings.</font>
FOUR... Remove the old gasket material that is left between the two housings. Since you have the pump separated you may wish to inspect and replace any other seals or gaskets that you deem necessary to avoid a future teardown of the unit.
FIVE... The difference of the two cast housings that are the makeup of a ported or non ported hydro unit lies within the housings themselves and if you view schematic drawing fo the hydro units you will see the differences. (Thus what I have written in blue just above this.)
SIX... Install the gasket on the aluminum housing. To HOLD the valve plates in place on the ported (or non) ported top housing use grease or vaseline on the bottom sides of the valve plates. To tell which valve plate goes to the pump and which valve plate goes to the motor. VIEW BOTH valve plates and you will notice on the grooves that one valve plate has two smaller lead in grooves and the other has one smaller lead in groove that points in the CCW direction. The valve plate with the TWO lead in grooves is for the motor. The single lead in groove is for the pump.
SEVEN... After joining the top and bottom of the hydro unit togethr , re-install the six bolts and torque to spec.
EIGHT... After re-installing the 15U on the transmission remove one of the check valves and pour oil into the hole while slowly turn the drive shaft. This will help to prime to system.
Now a little more about the worrying of springs flying all over when disassembling a 15U. The only time those springs would be a worry is when you remove the implement relief or charge springs. You need to be diligent when removing those springs and check for the shims will be inside along with the spring.
If by chance you should happen to take the cylinder block kits out during disassembly it is best to try and keep them separate so they may used in the same area they were used in however both are interchangeable so if you do forget which went where the unit will still work even though there is apossibility the pump clock kit may be switched with the motor cylinder block kit.
I could go into further detail about NOT taking the cylinder block kits apart unless really necessary since the chances of when putthe the pistons back inot the same holes within the cylinder block are slim and the pistons have overtime and usage worn into the holes, I am trying to keep this simple.
I hope this helps and explains things a little better. (If I recall correctly, I did a similar write up a few months back on converting a non ported to a ported hydro. Maybe someone will do a write up sometime and that will be put n the FAQ section as a reference.)
When converting a non ported pump to a ported pump or when simply taking a 15U Series pump apart.
ONE ... Build a BOX or something to hold the pump so that the aluminum housing rests inside the box and the cast steel part is positoned facing upwards.
TWO... THOROUGHLY CLEAN EVERYTHING on the pump so that no contaminants will enter the pump during diassembly.
THREE... Once the pump is placed on the framework built to hold the housing. REMOVE the bolts that hold the two housings together. Lift the top casting piece from the aluminum housing. It is now possible that the valve plates may fall from the top housing so be aware of this when removing so that the valve plates aren't damaged during the removal process.
<font color="0000ff">You need not worry about any springs or pieces flying out and surprising you and leaving you wondering where they go when separating the two housings.</font>
FOUR... Remove the old gasket material that is left between the two housings. Since you have the pump separated you may wish to inspect and replace any other seals or gaskets that you deem necessary to avoid a future teardown of the unit.
FIVE... The difference of the two cast housings that are the makeup of a ported or non ported hydro unit lies within the housings themselves and if you view schematic drawing fo the hydro units you will see the differences. (Thus what I have written in blue just above this.)
SIX... Install the gasket on the aluminum housing. To HOLD the valve plates in place on the ported (or non) ported top housing use grease or vaseline on the bottom sides of the valve plates. To tell which valve plate goes to the pump and which valve plate goes to the motor. VIEW BOTH valve plates and you will notice on the grooves that one valve plate has two smaller lead in grooves and the other has one smaller lead in groove that points in the CCW direction. The valve plate with the TWO lead in grooves is for the motor. The single lead in groove is for the pump.
SEVEN... After joining the top and bottom of the hydro unit togethr , re-install the six bolts and torque to spec.
EIGHT... After re-installing the 15U on the transmission remove one of the check valves and pour oil into the hole while slowly turn the drive shaft. This will help to prime to system.
Now a little more about the worrying of springs flying all over when disassembling a 15U. The only time those springs would be a worry is when you remove the implement relief or charge springs. You need to be diligent when removing those springs and check for the shims will be inside along with the spring.
If by chance you should happen to take the cylinder block kits out during disassembly it is best to try and keep them separate so they may used in the same area they were used in however both are interchangeable so if you do forget which went where the unit will still work even though there is apossibility the pump clock kit may be switched with the motor cylinder block kit.
I could go into further detail about NOT taking the cylinder block kits apart unless really necessary since the chances of when putthe the pistons back inot the same holes within the cylinder block are slim and the pistons have overtime and usage worn into the holes, I am trying to keep this simple.
I hope this helps and explains things a little better. (If I recall correctly, I did a similar write up a few months back on converting a non ported to a ported hydro. Maybe someone will do a write up sometime and that will be put n the FAQ section as a reference.)
Charlie,
It all went away last week when it went to 60 plus degrees. The cold is bac but no snow yet. Not nice enough to use the rear blade and no white stuff to push with the plow. Hard to find seat time. They stay nice and clean when there's nothing to do though.
It all went away last week when it went to 60 plus degrees. The cold is bac but no snow yet. Not nice enough to use the rear blade and no white stuff to push with the plow. Hard to find seat time. They stay nice and clean when there's nothing to do though.
mhomrighausen
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Eric F. That looks great!!!
Marlin,
That is exactly what I'm looking for, thanks so much for taking the time to write this. I agree, this should be placed in the Cubfaq. I think Wayne S. is looking for this info also.
All I intend to do is swap the housings, no more. I don't know enough to consider replacing stuff unless I see something obviously wrong, then I'll probably be back on here again.
Thanks again!
That is exactly what I'm looking for, thanks so much for taking the time to write this. I agree, this should be placed in the Cubfaq. I think Wayne S. is looking for this info also.
All I intend to do is swap the housings, no more. I don't know enough to consider replacing stuff unless I see something obviously wrong, then I'll probably be back on here again.
Thanks again!
Norm, Marlin,
You two get together and do a write up with pics and I'll add it to the FAQ's.
You two get together and do a write up with pics and I'll add it to the FAQ's.
mgerecke
Well-known member
Is there a trick to getting the bearing races out of the spindles in my 42 deck? I am sure they are pressed in the housing. My spindles are the old ones before the ST-745's. It seems to me that they need to be pressed in to a certain center point or something in the housing.
Any tricks you guys know?
Thanks
Any tricks you guys know?
Thanks
Jonathan Kiser
I don`t see any need to remove the steering wheel. I would just have a look under the tractor. You will see the parts I posted and can get the hydro controls moving again.Let us know how you make out with your Tractor. Later Don T
I don`t see any need to remove the steering wheel. I would just have a look under the tractor. You will see the parts I posted and can get the hydro controls moving again.Let us know how you make out with your Tractor. Later Don T
Marlin Homrighausen
I know I took a lot of pictures when I took my pump apart and I will have a look on my shop confusher and see if I can find them.I would not hesitate to take a pump apart again. thanks for your help last time. much appreciated. The easy job is just to change out a none ported to a ported and replace the cork gasket.Let me know if you want some pictures.Later Don T
I know I took a lot of pictures when I took my pump apart and I will have a look on my shop confusher and see if I can find them.I would not hesitate to take a pump apart again. thanks for your help last time. much appreciated. The easy job is just to change out a none ported to a ported and replace the cork gasket.Let me know if you want some pictures.Later Don T
Jonathan Kiser
Use hytran if you store the tractor in an unheated shed, Hytran will encapsulate water in your rear end ,which will aide in preventing damage to your hydro pump . What engine oil you use depends if you have heated storage are for your tractor . Later Don T
Use hytran if you store the tractor in an unheated shed, Hytran will encapsulate water in your rear end ,which will aide in preventing damage to your hydro pump . What engine oil you use depends if you have heated storage are for your tractor . Later Don T
mhomrighausen
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Donald T. Any pictures of the pumps during your swap will work.
Jonahtan K. If you can then download this from Charlie's Manual site. 127 Operator's Manual.
Page 28 will further guide you only for now...
Transmission.... IH Hy Tran 14 pt.s
Engine... 3 pints
Jonahtan K. If you can then download this from Charlie's Manual site. 127 Operator's Manual.
Page 28 will further guide you only for now...
Transmission.... IH Hy Tran 14 pt.s
Engine... 3 pints
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Norm B.
Thanks Marlin,
I've looked at it before then forgot about it. Looks like I need to go over it again.
Got another problem. Right now I'm following #94 in the Cubfaq, and I can't get the brake cam lever to go forward (ref. pic # 23). What am I missing?
I've looked at it before then forgot about it. Looks like I need to go over it again.
Got another problem. Right now I'm following #94 in the Cubfaq, and I can't get the brake cam lever to go forward (ref. pic # 23). What am I missing?
mhomrighausen
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Norm B. Do you mean this picture?
About the picture of the Smiley reading the blueprints, I see you're studying everything very carefully.
About the picture of the Smiley reading the blueprints, I see you're studying everything very carefully.
MARK G. - re Spindle assembly on a 42" deck. - I suggest you get the exploded parts view from the parts look-up above for reference.
There's a snap ring towards the center and a whole BUNCH of spacers that locates everything in those spindles and the tolerances have to be really close on all those spacers or the bearings and spindle will be too loose or too tight. Any kind of punch should be able to tap those outer races out and back in. Go easy on them and tap on alternating sides so you don't get the race wedged in the bore. Also be careful the punch doesn't slip and put a dent on the race, it will create a high spot that every roller of the bearing will have to roll over and cause problems.
If your installing new bearings & seals, use a board or piece of wood to spread the force of the hammer over the whole face of the bearing race or seal. And make sure you install everything facing the right way.
There's a snap ring towards the center and a whole BUNCH of spacers that locates everything in those spindles and the tolerances have to be really close on all those spacers or the bearings and spindle will be too loose or too tight. Any kind of punch should be able to tap those outer races out and back in. Go easy on them and tap on alternating sides so you don't get the race wedged in the bore. Also be careful the punch doesn't slip and put a dent on the race, it will create a high spot that every roller of the bearing will have to roll over and cause problems.
If your installing new bearings & seals, use a board or piece of wood to spread the force of the hammer over the whole face of the bearing race or seal. And make sure you install everything facing the right way.
Marlin,
Yes, I can't swing the cam forward like it shows. Is this different on a 682?
Also, the halves of the hydro are not separating like they should. Is there something holding it? Or do I just need to give it more horsepower?
Yes, I can't swing the cam forward like it shows. Is this different on a 682?
Also, the halves of the hydro are not separating like they should. Is there something holding it? Or do I just need to give it more horsepower?
