Archive through February 20, 2010

[tkeefe]

Charlie, I am guilty of bad maintenance. My two cubs were basket cases so I focused on fixing whats broke and not enough on routine maintenance. I can not move one of the forks freely back and forth so I expect that is the one binding up and will do further cleaning and lubricate. Am I corect in thinking both forks should move easily back and forth.

 

[digger]

Tim,
You should be able to move them without using a pry bar. You might try to ole hair drier routine to speed the cleaning process up a little, BTDT.

 

[tkeefe]

Charlie,
would hosing the rods and gears down with wd or pb blaster be a good idea?

 

[kide]

Rob:
I think Neophoren is something you soak your feet in...Neoprene is a rubber like gasket material resistant to oil, gas, etc.......

 

[digger]

Tim K.
Dunno,
I've only done the carb cleaner or lacquer thinner thing. WD is a joke! PB Blaster will work, but will be slow IMHO.

 

[fcurrier]

The circus is over! It's up to Don T. and I, now - a much easier crew to organize. 646 miles round trip in about 14 hours.

Big event for someone who's spent most of the winter in the cellar! Thanks for all the well-wishing, guys. Frank

 

[jbaker]

Tim I just had a thought are you pushing the clutch in when moving them? I am not sure if it matters

I dont remember moving mine when I opened it for inspection and fork tightening

 

[tkeefe]

Jeff,
thanks but the transmission is out of the tractor so clutch is not a factor.

 

[stanner]

Tim,

Some denatured alcohol will absorb the water, dilute the mud, and clean her out a little...

 

[dclinansmith]

Tim Keefe, A friend gave me a CC70 for parts. I decided to rebuild it instead of parting it out. The transmission was a real mess, filled with water and about a half inch of dirt. I removed the axle housings and the rear cover plate to clean it. I ordered one of those 1 quart pressure guns to clean it with. I used kerosene and kept spraying from every possible angle. I turned the gears several times to get everything possible flushed out. When I finished the tub had quite a pile of dirt and grit in the bottom. When I get it reassembled I will drain the transmission after some use to check for any leftover residue. The shift lever works smoothly even though it still has not been refilled with oil.

 

[mgwin]

Tim D.,
Thanks for the info. In the operator's manual on page 5 and 7 it shows the light switch on the left side of the dash tower. Why did you say it goes on the panel?
Does anyone have any photos on this subject?

 

[digger]

Tim D. & Marty G.
How bout the installation procedure for lights & switches on NF's!
CLICK HERE

 

[dtanner]

Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
I`am a Happy Cubber today to hear your trip went so smooth with no problems. Glade that you are home safe and sound.I will look forward to next winter when I can put that blower to work. I will have a mower deck sub frame to install now that you have brought that home with you also.Thanks I will bring some 7.5 percent cool ones over when I come in May for sure lol. Thanks again Frank. Later Don T

 

[tkeefe]

Thanks all, great tips from everyone. will update you on progress.Hope to do more tomorrow.
Tim

 

[mgwin]

Charlie,
Thanks for the info. I measured for the switch and the spot is under the charge indicator terminals. I marked the spot with an X. Here are some photos. See what I mean?

 

[dross]

huh, Marty, could the amp meter go in that hole in the dash then use the unused hole the wires come out of for the light switch?

 

[mgwin]

Dave R.,
Sorry, that hole in the dash is where the steering column goes!

 

[digger]

I think we've got the installation paper work on that thing.
But if my CRS hasn't set in, I was thinking this was the right spot.

 

[mgwin]

Here is another photo. This may help with the hole identity.

 

[digger]

I knew we did, LOL

I'll send you the BIG version.