Archive through February 17, 2008
- Thread starter jbliler
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I have been looking at info on three point lifting arms (arm that connects from the tractor lift arm to the top cast piece of the 3point setup). What is the diff between a wideframe lift arm and an "82" series arm. From what I have looked at the wideframe arm has a bend at one end and the "82"s use a straight arm. I thought that both of these tractors shared a common frame? Can someone explain what the diff is? Thanks
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Todd H.-
The 1x8/9 and QL lift arms have 1 bend. There are several 82 series arms. a straight one for the 782, one with 2 bends for the 582, and I'm not sure about the 682 one. I don't know if it's the same as the 582 one or not. The 82 series frame flares out at the front, but at the rear they are pretty much the same. The manual lift handle design is much different (and better, in my opinion) and the hydraulic lift rockshaft is also quite different between earlier wideframes and the 82's.
The 1x8/9 and QL lift arms have 1 bend. There are several 82 series arms. a straight one for the 782, one with 2 bends for the 582, and I'm not sure about the 682 one. I don't know if it's the same as the 582 one or not. The 82 series frame flares out at the front, but at the rear they are pretty much the same. The manual lift handle design is much different (and better, in my opinion) and the hydraulic lift rockshaft is also quite different between earlier wideframes and the 82's.
Wheel weights for a 782
I'm getting tired of sitting way up high on three or four bags of sand just to keep a little traction on the rear tires on my 782 with the snowthrower on the front.
A "local" (about 1/2 hour away) Case IH dealer says he thinks he has a source for new manufacture weights, and with shipping being nearly the cost of weights (I'm guessing) but when he orders big tractor weights from this place, he might be able to get them here much cheaper than any other way I can figure out.
Here's the question. How many weights can you fasten on to each wheel? I assume, not having seen the ones he's describing, that one puts each set on, and the next one out will someone have it's bolt slip through a notch or something and allow the next weight to be nutted on. I'm not sure yet how much each set will add, I'm estimating 60# or so, and is there a safe limit to how many a guy should hang on a rim before putting that rim in jeaprody of being bent or something with the inner bolt having to hold all the weight of the outer weights in place? Also, how much weight do you finally have to put on for it to balance out and have pretty good traction with a set of chains on? Is 120# per side in addition to the 60 I think I now have about right? I know last year when throwing the neighbor's driveway and getting to a little drop off I had a hell of a time backing up, and even with his 200 plus pounds standing on the hitch and leaning back we still didn't dig in and scratch up the hill as I'd want to.
I really don't plan on taking my machine to a plow day so I don't need a ton on the wheels, but I'm just looking for a guestimate if I do find I can afford to order some on how much I should tack on for it to be helpful.
I know there were some previous ingenious weights being cast from a sonotube and concrete, but I would like to go (if affordable) with the iron weights. And I don't take to filling the tires with calcium carbonate solution, I just worry about corrosion too much.
Is this the right track, or do you have easier solutions to the rear end problem (can't eat at Old Country Buffet, either, according to my doc.)
I'm getting tired of sitting way up high on three or four bags of sand just to keep a little traction on the rear tires on my 782 with the snowthrower on the front.
A "local" (about 1/2 hour away) Case IH dealer says he thinks he has a source for new manufacture weights, and with shipping being nearly the cost of weights (I'm guessing) but when he orders big tractor weights from this place, he might be able to get them here much cheaper than any other way I can figure out.
Here's the question. How many weights can you fasten on to each wheel? I assume, not having seen the ones he's describing, that one puts each set on, and the next one out will someone have it's bolt slip through a notch or something and allow the next weight to be nutted on. I'm not sure yet how much each set will add, I'm estimating 60# or so, and is there a safe limit to how many a guy should hang on a rim before putting that rim in jeaprody of being bent or something with the inner bolt having to hold all the weight of the outer weights in place? Also, how much weight do you finally have to put on for it to balance out and have pretty good traction with a set of chains on? Is 120# per side in addition to the 60 I think I now have about right? I know last year when throwing the neighbor's driveway and getting to a little drop off I had a hell of a time backing up, and even with his 200 plus pounds standing on the hitch and leaning back we still didn't dig in and scratch up the hill as I'd want to.
I really don't plan on taking my machine to a plow day so I don't need a ton on the wheels, but I'm just looking for a guestimate if I do find I can afford to order some on how much I should tack on for it to be helpful.
I know there were some previous ingenious weights being cast from a sonotube and concrete, but I would like to go (if affordable) with the iron weights. And I don't take to filling the tires with calcium carbonate solution, I just worry about corrosion too much.
Is this the right track, or do you have easier solutions to the rear end problem (can't eat at Old Country Buffet, either, according to my doc.)
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Dale R.-
Without seeing the weights, I couldn't tell you how many you can put on there. I have 100 lb. of weight on either side of my 1512 w/ QA-36A, and even with the aluminum rear, that is enough. That tractor is real light in the back. 120 lb. extra per side should do it; I'd recommend chains as well.
Without seeing the weights, I couldn't tell you how many you can put on there. I have 100 lb. of weight on either side of my 1512 w/ QA-36A, and even with the aluminum rear, that is enough. That tractor is real light in the back. 120 lb. extra per side should do it; I'd recommend chains as well.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Dale R.
Are you running chains??? With your 200# neighbor on the back, you should have been able to get up a reasonable incline if you were chained up.
Get 100# on each wheel and a good set of 2 link chains.
Are you running chains??? With your 200# neighbor on the back, you should have been able to get up a reasonable incline if you were chained up.
Get 100# on each wheel and a good set of 2 link chains.
Dale I get along fine with tire chains and about 90 pounds of chains (tire chains for the truck). It makes over loading the qa42a difficult, but it throws and gets along just great. It seems to be a bit light with the shreader tho.
PSA,
Mike H. got the Registration page up and running for PD15 in Rockford Iowa April 12th 2008.
So CLICK HERE to get the info and to sign up.
Mike H. got the Registration page up and running for PD15 in Rockford Iowa April 12th 2008.
So CLICK HERE to get the info and to sign up.
Dale - I'd be thinking about putting more weight behind the Cub than hang a lot out on the wheels.
Granted it'll be easier on the axle bearings but if you hang as many as you're talking about you run into a problem.
They will be hanging out so far that if you run into a curb or raised brick flower bed or garage corner you'll pop the axle.
You might think about a few wheel weights / RV anti freeze in the tires (with tubes) and then add more weight behind it.
Then put chains on and I'd recommend adding cross chains between the ones on the set , kinda like a double set of chains in one. I did that on my home made tractor and it's alot better than the wide gaps like they come. You'll be getting a bite twice as often.
Granted it'll be easier on the axle bearings but if you hang as many as you're talking about you run into a problem.
They will be hanging out so far that if you run into a curb or raised brick flower bed or garage corner you'll pop the axle.
You might think about a few wheel weights / RV anti freeze in the tires (with tubes) and then add more weight behind it.
Then put chains on and I'd recommend adding cross chains between the ones on the set , kinda like a double set of chains in one. I did that on my home made tractor and it's alot better than the wide gaps like they come. You'll be getting a bite twice as often.
Jason D.
AFAIK there is not specific Model/PN for the setup itself. But if you click the parts look up button above, you can get the PN's for the pieces used to add it to a 123.
AFAIK there is not specific Model/PN for the setup itself. But if you click the parts look up button above, you can get the PN's for the pieces used to add it to a 123.
Dale, Ken has a valid point. I have a double set of weights on my 1650 and the other day I had to be very careful working near a large rock, as one of the weights sticks out a bit. I use a combination of both. I fabricated this bracket to hold another #145.
Art, nice looking tires!
"Jwentz . Nice looking loader. Rich"
Thanks!
I have put a lot of time and $$ into getting it to this point.
It is sure handing for working IN the flower beds! I have 10 yards of topsoil coming this morning that I hope to have distributed today.
Thanks!
