prightmyer
Active member
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- Nov 8, 2005
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- 38
- displayname
- Peter A. Rightmyer
Hey Charlie, Just jok'in around.
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Archive through February 14, 2007
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Jeff B., thanks! FWIW, the 4411 bulbs are 35 watts each.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
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- Gerry Ide
Kraig- cool video - I can never get anyone outside when I'm clearing snow to take video or pics anymore(ever since the extension cord thing, she stays in the house - thinks I'll electrocute her).I checked the chute after the action today - no snow sticking and the graphite paint looks good. Maybe I need some Cermax in the K-motor. (we're waitin', Digger..)
It is interesting to see how a single stage thrower works - you get the most loft when you're jamming as much in as the motor will handle. (hmmmm - maybe time for a "bottle" - nah then I'd need a bottle heater just to keep the squeeze flowing)
It is interesting to see how a single stage thrower works - you get the most loft when you're jamming as much in as the motor will handle. (hmmmm - maybe time for a "bottle" - nah then I'd need a bottle heater just to keep the squeeze flowing)
K
kmcgiver
Guest
Mike F
Down and dirty simple test. Get yerself a screwum driver Phillips or flat. Close to the “F” terminal on yer starter/gen scratch a bare spot. From that bare spot cross the screwum diver to the “F” post. Watch the indicator. Listen to engine as it is funning, there should be an audiable cahge in the engine you need not run much more than idle. The meter should peg full charge if the starter/generator is good. If this doesnot happen ensure that the BAT wire to the regulator is hot at all times and that the wire going from “A” term of the starter/gen to the GEN terminal of the regulator is good. If both of these wires are good and the charge does not peg and there is no audible change in engine load and or RPM the generator is at fault. If the unit starts charging the regulator is at fault or has a bad ground.
Kentuck
Ya gotta dig in yer hip pocket dere sir. The reason your unit will not return to neutral is because you aint running drive system plus part # 737-3120. it has an additive in it that make s all the difference in the world regarding return to neutral it quite the story behind it so I’ll spare ya. Bout 8 bucks a quart but after the change of it and the filter and about 20 min drive time all will be healed. This mechanic in a bottle does work, bout the only one I know of that actually does though
Down and dirty simple test. Get yerself a screwum driver Phillips or flat. Close to the “F” terminal on yer starter/gen scratch a bare spot. From that bare spot cross the screwum diver to the “F” post. Watch the indicator. Listen to engine as it is funning, there should be an audiable cahge in the engine you need not run much more than idle. The meter should peg full charge if the starter/generator is good. If this doesnot happen ensure that the BAT wire to the regulator is hot at all times and that the wire going from “A” term of the starter/gen to the GEN terminal of the regulator is good. If both of these wires are good and the charge does not peg and there is no audible change in engine load and or RPM the generator is at fault. If the unit starts charging the regulator is at fault or has a bad ground.
Kentuck
Ya gotta dig in yer hip pocket dere sir. The reason your unit will not return to neutral is because you aint running drive system plus part # 737-3120. it has an additive in it that make s all the difference in the world regarding return to neutral it quite the story behind it so I’ll spare ya. Bout 8 bucks a quart but after the change of it and the filter and about 20 min drive time all will be healed. This mechanic in a bottle does work, bout the only one I know of that actually does though
K
kmcgiver
Guest
In defnese of Kentuck, dang I cant beleive I am doing this LOL!!! Seen 2166's like his last over 4K hrs and still run strong.
Was the link to Kraig's video posted already?
Kendall - I'll check the belt too, although I'm thinking that there is a constant discharge going on. I removed the battery after use this morning just in case. I'll re-evaluate this evening.
Kentuck - I hear what you're saying about having to wrestle with 30+ yr old equipment to keep it running. I think we all put our tractors to the test out here. We try to keep 'em looking nice, but we're not shy about using 'em when the weather cranks up. Look at Steve B. and his killer display with the blower. Doesn't look like he's holding back. No doubt he has to fix a thing or two now and then.
Kendall - I'll check the belt too, although I'm thinking that there is a constant discharge going on. I removed the battery after use this morning just in case. I'll re-evaluate this evening.
Kentuck - I hear what you're saying about having to wrestle with 30+ yr old equipment to keep it running. I think we all put our tractors to the test out here. We try to keep 'em looking nice, but we're not shy about using 'em when the weather cranks up. Look at Steve B. and his killer display with the blower. Doesn't look like he's holding back. No doubt he has to fix a thing or two now and then.
Time for a comparison...........
Kentucky Ken: Shell out the $s required, and get a blower, tiller, front blade, etc. for that 2166, and then let's see ya bust that tractors balls during all 4 seasons for a several years...
Then get back to us with the list, and price of all it's repairs!
Kentucky Ken: Shell out the $s required, and get a blower, tiller, front blade, etc. for that 2166, and then let's see ya bust that tractors balls during all 4 seasons for a several years...
Then get back to us with the list, and price of all it's repairs!
