Archive through December 27, 2006

[dandre]

Ryan, according to the wiring diagram, the ignition gets its power from the voltage regulator on the light green wire. It could be that the gray wire from the start switch to the voltage regulator battery terminal is open or the voltage regulator is bad. The switch is probably not bad because voltage has to go through it to get to the coil when your cranking.
http://www.cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams/70.jpg

 

[kweaver]

Yeah but if the contacts on the black and green wire in the switch are bad it'll shut off. I've had bad contacts on the run side but still good ones on the start side. Hook the black and green together (it'll be ON) then turn the key to start and see if it'll run.

Hey C/B why don't we have any trykes in "Better than new"?

 

[dmerkle]

Vern B.
My Dad made his narrow front tractor and rear mount mower 2 years ago.

All the steering is on left side(driver on seat).
Arm between steering linkage and shaft that goes to wheels

Steering linkage

Dad changed direction the drag link went. On a wide front end tractor the drag link moves towards the front of tractor when you turn left. Dad's narrow front tractor the drag link moves towards the rear of the tractor when you turn left. By setting steering up this way you have no clearance problems under the oil pan. Tractor was a 149.

 

[digger]

Hey Ken,
Just thought I'd let ya know, it's still 39.8 up my way!

 

[kweaver]

Dale - Nice lookin rig.

Digger - just thought I'd let ya know it's still 26º here.

 

[rbedell]

Ryan:

Here is a simplified diagram for the 70/100 Ignition Circuit. You can trace the problem with a VOM Meter.
You can test voltages at each point or check resistance (should be close to zero) on the V/R (B to L) & ignition switch (in ON position).

 

[bcorn]

Dale: I want one of those!!!!!!!!! Dang gone it that is one sweet looking tractor.

Excuse me I got to go talk to "Maws" if I come back with knots on my head you guys will problay know the answer!! LOL

Pops

 

[kweaver]

Somebody go look fer Ben. Ben been gone to long.

Wake up Digger 25.4º (there's a spot on radar right ontop of his house and I hope he's getting a roof cave-in)

 

[dshanny]

I am currently attempting to restore a Cadet Model 71 that has sat idle for some 15 years. Rust is the primary obstacle. I need to remove the engine to repair a broken valve spring but the engine is tied to the drive shaft and it appears to have through pins (2) connecting it to the engine. They seem to be the type that can be driven out but the rust makes it difficult enough that I am wondering if they really can be driven through. Does anyone know if they really are "drive through" pins or could they be threaded in some way. They do not appear to be. Also, does anyone know where I can get information on the model 71. I would be more than happy to pay copy and reasonable shipping charges for any kind of info on that model. thank you.

 

[mbounds]

David S: Go to the top of the page and click on the block with the green IH pickup in it. It will take you to the Binder Books site and you can order all the manuals (Operator, Service & Parts) for your Cub Cadet...Excellent quality & fair prices....

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[kweaver]

David - Don't HIT that sucker - they are cast aluminum and they are thin and expensive! Not the coupler but what it bolts to. It'll break where the cup bolts to the flywheel. (BTDT) My pic here of my 127 has a bolt through the drive shaft but it is suppose to be a pin. The other bolt heads in the front of the shaft will be the best way to take it loose, then you can move the engine forward. You need books? Look up! No not at the ceiling ... rookies! Look up at the SPONSORS above here.

 

[mbounds]

David S: Did you ever hear of Kroil or PB Blaster???? Kroil is a little more expensive and harder to find but works very good. Equally as good is PB Blaster which is inexpensive and found at most auto parts stores, as well as Wal-Mart. Keep the parts soaking wet for several days and either will penetrate and loosen the rust around those pins.


Further pay very close attention to and heed what Kentucky Ken said......

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[rbedell]

David S:

First, welcome to the forum

To add what Myron and Ken said, here is a clutch breakdown to help you until you get your manuals.

 

[gcoleman]

Well, here are the pics of the "Turf Eater"... new tires all around, and a brand new original F-Cub Muffler... Dale, Send Me Some More Pics Of That Red 149

 

[digger]

Glen,
I like the look of those Firestone tri-ribs, but i just can't bring myself to pay 130 bucks a set for'um.
I can buy 2 complete Cubs for that kinda money!

 

[mgonitzke]

Does anybody know if that MTD parts lookup website lists prices for parts too? I'm in need of a 582 Clutch hanger (703-0217) and can see from that online parts manual that it's not NLA, but it doesn't say what it costs, and my local CC dealer is closed today so I can't call them to find out. Anybody happen to know what that part costs new? Thanks!

 

[kweaver]

mmmmm, I could show you a broke out exhaust port that had a bunch of plumbing pipes just like that on it ... Kool light but very anoying in yer eyes aint it? Maybe you could velcro it to a hard hat and wear it, then the ppl behind you could see it to

Digger - got my Toyota. Gonna fire up the fire wrench and go to werk

 

[kweaver]

Ya know , I've used that Monkey Meters to SAE conversion I put in the Machine Shop page 4 times since last night. Glad I put it there since I can find it easier there than on my 'puter !

 

[bmcmeen]

Matt G -

Now why would they list prices if they don't sell direct? Pricing is up to the dealers - you know as well as I do that no two dealers price an item the same.

 

[digger]

Matt, that number is replaced with 759-3548. It's around 35 to 40 bucks depending on your dealers mood for the day.