• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through December 26, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Brennan Hoyt (Bhoyt)
Third I've been seeing electric and manual clutches on the front of some of the engines. Where these used to activate the mower decks? Mines just a large pulley for the SG and a smaller pulley in front of that. How is my deck (when it get one) activated?
The mower deck on and original has a timed deck. the belt runs as soon as the tractor is started . the deck has a clutch on it (foot petal) to start the blades. Hope this helps. I`am in on the house pc and my pictures are on the Cub Shack pc so i can post a picture later If you need it. Later Don T
old.gif
 
I have to say this(incomplete profiles are a pain) if i see a question here i might be able to answer i look at the persons profile to see if they have some mech ability.age and type of work would help when an answer is given.(will they understand the answer?)how should i write this so they get my drift. I would NOT want to lead them down the wrong path. MY .02
 
Good morning "trapped in the house" Don! Well put!
thumbsup_old.gif

Jason Davis: (from your question yesterday) Drop down on the Topics page to CCC and MTD machines and equipment and let the education on post 1981 machines begin!
coffee.gif
 
brendan, as to your questions,,,,first, no an original and a 70 are not the same ( the 70 and the 100 are of the same series)....the original was made in what is termed the first series.....major diffrance was that the original had a belt from the motor to the driveshaft, this was the only one to be set up this way, the rest have a driveshaft from the motor to the trans. Second,,,what is a creeper drive unit? it is an unit that attatches to tractor between the transmission and driveshaft, and gives you a underdrive, or slower speed, which is needed to throw snow or till a garden, while still being able to run the motor at full throttle. there were two made for the originals, one by danco the other(which is rare) by M&W. ( the one made by M&W offerd both under and overdrive.)one other note...the creeper for an original will only fit an original. 3,,, yes the manual and electric clutches are to engage your front p.t.o., which drives decks, throwers,rototillers..ect, . The original did not have this feature, but used a foot operated clutch, that was built into the originals deck, so when you get your deck, you will get the clutch. so on a original you have a live p.t.o. if you will.... hope this help out, and happy holidays to you and yours.....
 
glen smith (Gwsmith) Thanks ( your the Man)and i see you are a bright Canadian lol. A complete profile. I haven`t updated my profile in awile as to the extras i have to use with my Cubs , but i`am going to add pictures and a full list come spring as soon as i can get them all in one place. Thanks Don T
old.gif
 
TOM S. - Your 100 has an internal disc brake on the front of the transission lower shaft. It's inside the reduction housing on the front of the transmission. The "L" shaped lever on the very front of the tranmission housing activates it. I think either that lever is rusted stuck, or the brake is adjusted WAY too tight, or the little friction mat'l pucks in the housing are stuck solid locking up the disc & rearend. Did You 100 sit outside in the weather for a while?
 
Good morning Frank C , its snowing here and i hope to use the 149 and move some snow.
Shift.gif

I thought i would post a shot of some Cubs that were just sitting there . i think we should have a plow day up there and get this all plowed for you lol
thumbsup_old.gif

112142.jpg
 
Can an Original that has a "live" PTO be converted to an electric clutch? Also can I do away with the belt drive and put together a direct drive fairly easily?
 
jason davis - Thank you for your response but I guess what I was gettin' at was which "style" was the correct one? What ignition switch is the correct switch for my '72 149? I don't know what the original switch looks like. I just know the switch that's in the tractor now is the wrong ignition switch.

112145.gif

Kenneth
 
Good Morning All. Yesteday it was in the lower 40s and wet all over with melting snow. This morning.... lower 30s and freezing rain. Fancy and I ventured out long enough to set out squirrel and bird food and some ice melt. Sure glad that we got the Cubs prepared for the next storm.

Brennan H. Methinks that it would be a whole lot eaiser for you to send your Original to a good loving home and find yourself a nice Quietline. Now who was it here that was looking for a good Original?
1a_scratchhead.gif


Tristan Stewart. Maybe this summer I can take some measurements of the MF10s Cozy cab. With some slight modification I am sure you could make one almost like it to fit a Cub Cadet. Since the lift lever on a Msssey Ferguson garden tractor is on the left side versus right side for a Cub Cadet you'd have to relocate the Massey cab's left side to the right. For door levers, I'd try a combine junkyard. Same for the rubber window liners. Some of the older combines should have the door latches, windshield wiper, and rubber material for windows that would work. Plexiglas or is it Luann(?) glass for windows. And finally .... patience.
 
Dennis F. I expect to get a set of copper rods and plates would be pretty expensive.

I ordered the kit yesterday and will give it a try. I have welded up a lot of hitches and other holes and with a lot of drilling, grinding and welding have done the job, but there has to be a better way.

I think it was Steve B. who said "I'm a good welder and an excellent grinder". I often remember that whenever I'm working on a welding project.
 
Dennis F - It appears to have sat out a while. If the brake was stuck, would the wheels still rotate? I am not sure if I am being clear on the problem.
 
Kenneth D if you look up the part number in the parts lookup for a 149 switch you can compare it with the part number and pics on CCspecalties website.
 
Kenneth

ignition switch "A" is the correct one!
does your wiring harness have a 3 prong connection like this?
112151.jpg

If yes you need switch "A" I do not have a picture of the switch its self.

Does anyone have a picture of a 149 ignition switch from a 149 ????I belive the switch should look the same as switch "A" I cant tell how many prongs are on "B" if three I dont see why it wouldnt work!!

ANYBODY ELSE?? have an opinion!!!

Look at the CC Specialties site under electrcal,the ignition switch listed there is the correct "Style" its listed under 149,there are two with 149 listed but both are the same!!

Under EDIT, I lied one has a C1 and one has a C3 for the last two digits of the part #
I will now shut my trap and let the experts chime in!!!!LOL
blush.gif
 
First post, Power Lurker !!

Tom Smoker re 100, The brake is on the pinion shaft, if it was stuck it would cause your symptoms, but you would not be able to turn the wheels with the input shaft.
If you put the tractor down and in gear can you move it by turning the input shaft ?
Try forward and reverse.
If not, I suspect there is something broken in the differential that only jams with weight on the wheels.
It is entirely possible that I am completely wrong too !
I am on my third rear end now, so they do break.

Bob
 
Robert:
First, welcome to the forum!
Send: WTH are you doing to break Cub differentials?
yikes.gif

Either you've gotten a batch that were mistreated for years or you'd better turn down the squeeze on that SB Chevy you've got in there........
 
Don T:
Ref -"i look at the persons profile to see if they have some mech ability.age and type of work would help when an answer is given"...Age sure as H... doesn't apply (I'll use Matt G. as an example of that), Mechanical ability??? Is the person supposed to grade themselves?? and last - What does type of work have to do with it?? This is a hobby for most, so the forum members occupation won't have much to do with it either. You have to judge the type of response you give based on how the question was asked...too much technical information never hurt anyone (might cause them to think..) and if they have to ask multiple questions, that's what keeps the forum humming anyway!!
I'm commenting on the issue you brought up, because posting too much personal information in profiles is causing headaches for a lot of our youngsters these days (but not on this forum!!!)
thumbsup_old.gif
 
Don T I have to agree some on Kendel's side

I tends to upset me If I am willing to give true information that I have learned on several forms on the web.

I'll admit I'm a jack of all trades and a master of none, but feel that if a person asks a question

If not exactly correct I hope someone will step in and correct me. and these times I say at the end "just guessing"

Don't check my profile to check my ability, some old man may have showed a young pup a short cut.

Other than that I agree this keeps the forum moving.

From an "old dog"still learning new tricks.
 
Should I buy or build?

I need a front end loader for my 982. I would love to hear from anyone who has one on their cub. Where did you get it? Did you build it yourself or did you get one that was designed for a different tractor and modify it to fit the cub, and how did that go. Any input would be appreciated.

-everettdale
 
After long contemplation and knowing who I am and what I am likely to do, I think its time, before in start, to look for a more suitable/durable tractor. I've been telling myself that I am just going to mow my lawn with it, but it wouldn't hurt if it had a bit more power and looked cool doing it too. I've always wanted to pull but know that it costs quite a bit to be competitive. So I figured if I started with a tractor that couldn't realistically be competitive, I wouldn't build it. But knowing myself I would try in the end and end up with a nice tractor with lots of power but some very critical weak points that could not be solved without a ton of more money. I have been down this road before with my '67 Barracuda. It came with the Slant6 and everybody told me to drop in a V8 and stop fooling around with the Slant. I didn't listen and it has cost me way to much money. Now granted, I do have a very fast 6 cyl street car with A/C and a car seat in the back running in the 14's all on motor. The moral of the story is I should have listened and today I think I am going to.
The Original is for sale and I am looking for suggestions as what to get.
1. It must mow the lawn.
2. It must someday be running two engines (gas)even if its only used for mowing.
3. No hydro drive, but hydraulics would be cool for accessories.
4. Maybe pulling. I know I don't have time to travel the country going to pulls. So very little pulling, for something to do.
Whats my ideal tractor?

A pic of what I was planning for a couple of Originals. (photoshop)

112155.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top