hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Belated Merry Christmas to all - I got a blister on my toe from the lump of coal in my stocking.
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Archive through December 25, 2013
- Thread starter danderson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kraig
Thanks for the reply ; and you are correct in standing under the way I think . details are not always included.Front ports on a cub would supply the blower lift as well as the lift rod function. I thought that way I would have weight control for the front wheels . I found the 450 to be heavy and when it gets caught it can be a beast. Never let the blower fall to far and reverse the blowers lift assembly . two bolts solved that issue ;lots to learn, information is the key and a great home like this site.
Denny
How do you run that tractor with out a float option. Make one with a few fittings and two sections of hose and a valve to open and close and by passing the control for the loaders lift arms. I did put a third valve on my loader . I like float so in reverse I can float the lift arms and tilt the bucket to get the coverage I`am spreading for topsoil. I do think float is handy and worth the few dollars it cost.Blade angle when the blade is pushing is most important From it`s shoe to the top blade edge.
Thanks for the reply ; and you are correct in standing under the way I think . details are not always included.Front ports on a cub would supply the blower lift as well as the lift rod function. I thought that way I would have weight control for the front wheels . I found the 450 to be heavy and when it gets caught it can be a beast. Never let the blower fall to far and reverse the blowers lift assembly . two bolts solved that issue ;lots to learn, information is the key and a great home like this site.
Denny
How do you run that tractor with out a float option. Make one with a few fittings and two sections of hose and a valve to open and close and by passing the control for the loaders lift arms. I did put a third valve on my loader . I like float so in reverse I can float the lift arms and tilt the bucket to get the coverage I`am spreading for topsoil. I do think float is handy and worth the few dollars it cost.Blade angle when the blade is pushing is most important From it`s shoe to the top blade edge.
Scott
he is the manual for what an Original has for a snow thrower.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/BB-36%20Snowthrower%20Operators%20Manual-1.pdf
he is the manual for what an Original has for a snow thrower.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/BB-36%20Snowthrower%20Operators%20Manual-1.pdf
jstertz
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- joshua donald stertz
Scott A-- I'm in agreement with Don T. I looked at putting an early QA36 on my original in the past. Although it would fit the frame and bolt in place, the original doesn't have the mechanical PTO like the later models do. So, to keep from a lot of fabricating and head aches, you may want to try and locate a BB36 for your application!
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
mhomrighausen
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- Sep 20, 2001
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Here's a question for all. Fancy's 1650 has a cheap and small CCA battery in it. His 1650 starts right up in 14* weather while the Keepsake does as it always has with the Interstate battery. It turns over slow and eventually starts. Fancy's 1650 once again will turn over like a big new battery on a summer day. While pushing snow the engine lacks power and acts more like an eight horse trying to push snow than a 16 horse with around 75 hours on an overhaul. If the tractor stalls and quits it will start right up. Could my ACR be sticking open and if so then how do I get it to release? TIA!!!
Just remembered the engine did sit for around four years inside a shed. The PO parked it after it was too close to a fire and burned one of the rear tires and rims. His brother sold me the tractor because no storage was paid on the tractor.
Just remembered the engine did sit for around four years inside a shed. The PO parked it after it was too close to a fire and burned one of the rear tires and rims. His brother sold me the tractor because no storage was paid on the tractor.
jstertz
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- joshua donald stertz
Daniel G--how is your 147 setup for snow removal and do you have any pics?
My experience so far with the snow removal with my Cubs is as follows: I use my blades for anything up to six inches because in my large long driveway they are fast. The nod for efficiency goes to my 1772 with hydro turn 54" but I enjoy working with my 42" on the narrow frames just as much it just takes quite a bit longer! I use the 450 for anything deeper than 6" because I find that it is harder to keep the front end from sliding sideways with the 54" blade when the snow is deeper. The 450 sends the snow over 30' from its point of origin so there tends to be much less multiple moves of the same snow in one setting.
I'm not saying you can't push heavy, deep snow with a blade and a Cub. It is just a matter of physics. If the snow is deep enough and heavy enough it gets to a point where you cant push it with a 1000lb tractor and blade very well. I run two link v bars and a set of 96# suitcase weights on my big blade tractor. I usually only have traction issues when pushing into a frozen pre pushed pile of snow. The 450 is on the 682 Cubbie and I have a set of two links and a set of IH 26# cast weights and I'm not lacking for traction because it throws the pushing work out of the way. My drive is flat though. If you have a hilly drive and you ended up nose down hill with my Cubbie combo, the tail end would definitely be light. That 450 is heavy out front.
Some would say, "Why not use a blower all the time?" First, I don't have a cab yet and you can get a really impressive face wash with the snow moving through that thing in a hurry if the winds are contrary. You typically don't have that issue with a blade. Secondly, I have a gravel drive and I run my blade a little closer to the ground than my blower. So, for the lighter snows, the blade cleans up a little nicer than the blower...
These are just my .02!!!
My experience so far with the snow removal with my Cubs is as follows: I use my blades for anything up to six inches because in my large long driveway they are fast. The nod for efficiency goes to my 1772 with hydro turn 54" but I enjoy working with my 42" on the narrow frames just as much it just takes quite a bit longer! I use the 450 for anything deeper than 6" because I find that it is harder to keep the front end from sliding sideways with the 54" blade when the snow is deeper. The 450 sends the snow over 30' from its point of origin so there tends to be much less multiple moves of the same snow in one setting.
I'm not saying you can't push heavy, deep snow with a blade and a Cub. It is just a matter of physics. If the snow is deep enough and heavy enough it gets to a point where you cant push it with a 1000lb tractor and blade very well. I run two link v bars and a set of 96# suitcase weights on my big blade tractor. I usually only have traction issues when pushing into a frozen pre pushed pile of snow. The 450 is on the 682 Cubbie and I have a set of two links and a set of IH 26# cast weights and I'm not lacking for traction because it throws the pushing work out of the way. My drive is flat though. If you have a hilly drive and you ended up nose down hill with my Cubbie combo, the tail end would definitely be light. That 450 is heavy out front.
Some would say, "Why not use a blower all the time?" First, I don't have a cab yet and you can get a really impressive face wash with the snow moving through that thing in a hurry if the winds are contrary. You typically don't have that issue with a blade. Secondly, I have a gravel drive and I run my blade a little closer to the ground than my blower. So, for the lighter snows, the blade cleans up a little nicer than the blower...
These are just my .02!!!
joshua donald stertz
I agree completely in your findings in that last post. My paved drive keeps me from using chain on it. I hate all the scratches those chains make when you run into frozen snow and everything will stop but the rear wheels. I have a full face mc helmet that I plan to us till I bring my cab home from Maine.I do hate the snow on the face. bbbbbrrrr. I have run my blade up about 1" and now the drive has the ice there so I will chain up a set of turf tires and install the 450 . I need to find a soft rubber winter tires that will fit a Cub rim or install a posilock in the rearend.
I agree completely in your findings in that last post. My paved drive keeps me from using chain on it. I hate all the scratches those chains make when you run into frozen snow and everything will stop but the rear wheels. I have a full face mc helmet that I plan to us till I bring my cab home from Maine.I do hate the snow on the face. bbbbbrrrr. I have run my blade up about 1" and now the drive has the ice there so I will chain up a set of turf tires and install the 450 . I need to find a soft rubber winter tires that will fit a Cub rim or install a posilock in the rearend.
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