Well I couldn't find the photo I was looking for of the front axle bolt for replacing the axle pin. I'll have another look tomorrow, I'm out of time for today.....
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Archive through August 21, 2007
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
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bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Russell -
That's probably because you're missing the extensions that are supposed to be bolted to the front of the subframe. Number 19 in this diagram:
In order to use it without the extensions, you need to leave the mower pulley bracket (mule drive) on. Since Charlie's got the manual handy, he can post that pic for ya, too
That's probably because you're missing the extensions that are supposed to be bolted to the front of the subframe. Number 19 in this diagram:
In order to use it without the extensions, you need to leave the mower pulley bracket (mule drive) on. Since Charlie's got the manual handy, he can post that pic for ya, too
The other day I was asking about my 127 and what would cause it to carbon foul the plug so soon after cleaning the carbon off the head and piston.
I had replaced the blown head gasket and installed a new plug only to find out the the 12hp motor was blowing a lot of smoke out the breather. So I took the advice mentioned here about adding MMO to the gas to see if it would free up any stuck rings which may be the cause of the blow by.
Well after only a 1/2 tank of gas with 5oz of MMO in it the plug fouled out, I removed the plug and cleaned the oily carbon deposit form it and reinstalled the plug.
Today after starting it and taking it for an hour ride through the woods at full throttle and low speed on the hydro lever here is what I have comming out of the exahust pipe.
No smoke, which is good? right?
and here is what the breather looks like
again no smoke visable, good so far ?
I am hopeing the the MMO loosened the rings and my oil comsumption/blow by will be greatly reduced. I will have to keep an eye on it the next few times out.
Also here are some snap shots of the seat I replaced the old worn out one with.
All the way back.
All the way forward.
Nice comfortable seat to ride around on.
I had replaced the blown head gasket and installed a new plug only to find out the the 12hp motor was blowing a lot of smoke out the breather. So I took the advice mentioned here about adding MMO to the gas to see if it would free up any stuck rings which may be the cause of the blow by.
Well after only a 1/2 tank of gas with 5oz of MMO in it the plug fouled out, I removed the plug and cleaned the oily carbon deposit form it and reinstalled the plug.
Today after starting it and taking it for an hour ride through the woods at full throttle and low speed on the hydro lever here is what I have comming out of the exahust pipe.
No smoke, which is good? right?
and here is what the breather looks like
again no smoke visable, good so far ?
I am hopeing the the MMO loosened the rings and my oil comsumption/blow by will be greatly reduced. I will have to keep an eye on it the next few times out.
Also here are some snap shots of the seat I replaced the old worn out one with.
All the way back.
All the way forward.
Nice comfortable seat to ride around on.
Here's some pics of my first cub repair, I know it's nothing major but I had fun doing it. The other day I noticed that one of my rubber mounts on the voltage regulator had snapped and I remembered someone here explaining how to repair it.
Notice the bottom rubber mount is snapped.
Here's another shot of it.
Drilling out the rivets.
I used a bungie cord for the mount.
The new mount and hardware.
And the finished product.
Notice the bottom rubber mount is snapped.
Here's another shot of it.
Drilling out the rivets.
I used a bungie cord for the mount.
The new mount and hardware.
And the finished product.
Good job on the V/R... I need to do the same to mine, except both mounts...
I want to put the decals on my cub once it is painted, and the dash decal has me the most worried. What solution should I use to allow it to slide around without damaging the adhesive on it? I do however know to squeegee it out after I have it where I want it.
I want to put the decals on my cub once it is painted, and the dash decal has me the most worried. What solution should I use to allow it to slide around without damaging the adhesive on it? I do however know to squeegee it out after I have it where I want it.
prightmyer
Active member
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- Nov 8, 2005
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- displayname
- Peter A. Rightmyer
Question: my dad called me tonight and told me the 128 he is restoring will only go in reverse? Won't go in first at all and when he puts it in 2nd or 3rd, it sounds like the tractor is going to stahl, but no movement. He said it went in all of the gears before he painted it and he said he did not touch the tranny, only the gear shift when he put in a new gasket. Is it possible he bunged up the shifting forks when he put in a new gasket? Or is it an adjustment?
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Peter,
He probably "missed" when he reinstalled the lever and the little ball on the end of the lever is either in front of or in back of the slots in the shift forks. Pull the shifter back off, carefully align the forks so that the tractor is in "N" (rock the gears and use gentle pressure with a big screwdriver to move them against the detents). Then, install the shifter so that the ball rests in the slots on the forks and all should be well.
He probably "missed" when he reinstalled the lever and the little ball on the end of the lever is either in front of or in back of the slots in the shift forks. Pull the shifter back off, carefully align the forks so that the tractor is in "N" (rock the gears and use gentle pressure with a big screwdriver to move them against the detents). Then, install the shifter so that the ball rests in the slots on the forks and all should be well.
Thanks Bryan,
I'm definitely missing those bracket extensions.
I tried installing it with the drop bracket from the mower deck instead, but none of the holes lined up.
I'll look into sourcing the bracket extensions or the alternative subframe.
Thanks!
-Russ
I'm definitely missing those bracket extensions.
I tried installing it with the drop bracket from the mower deck instead, but none of the holes lined up.
I'll look into sourcing the bracket extensions or the alternative subframe.
Thanks!
-Russ
Hey guys some resolutions to some fairly recent posts I have made. First, The rattle I was hearing at idle was coming from the drivetrain clutch. The holes are elongated and slapping the backlash at idle. Also related, I talked to Dad about the condition of the balance gears at the last rebuild. He told me the K301A was a transplant after one of my older brothers blew the original and Dad was to busy for a rebuild. The current K301A is a 1967 model from what I understand of the serial # with no balance gears. Third, I took the choke shaft from the walbro and made it work with the carter carb and original carter choke plate. Still need to tighten the throttle shaft. The cub gets better by the day!!
prightmyer
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2005
- Messages
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- Peter A. Rightmyer
Steve, thanks for the info. I will have to go out to his house this week and look into it a little closer.
Hello well I drove my 70 for the 1st time today. I've had it sitting in the weeds for 3 years. Did a valve job on it and replaced some wires on it and it runs well. I mounted a piece of wood on the seat spring and drove arond in the yard.The best part was when my wife came out on the deck and said "Well I guess you proved me wrong" It just doesn't get any better!(When you are married for more than 10 years)
James C.
Gotta love those Cubs!
Gotta love those Cubs!
Todd H.,
You mentioned earlier,
"The current K301A is a 1967 model from what I understand of the serial # with no balance gears."
Can you (or anyone else) tell me what the serial number was when IH either STOPPED building engines
without balance gears or the serial number when they STARTED to install balance gears in them?
The engines I have in question are:
a K301AS, serial # C 062929, spec# 47138 B
a K301A, serial # 310830, spec# 47446 d
a K301A, serial # E0043256, spec# 47138 B
Thanks in advance, Guys!
Ryan W
You mentioned earlier,
"The current K301A is a 1967 model from what I understand of the serial # with no balance gears."
Can you (or anyone else) tell me what the serial number was when IH either STOPPED building engines
without balance gears or the serial number when they STARTED to install balance gears in them?
The engines I have in question are:
a K301AS, serial # C 062929, spec# 47138 B
a K301A, serial # 310830, spec# 47446 d
a K301A, serial # E0043256, spec# 47138 B
Thanks in advance, Guys!
Ryan W
Ryan, I had the thought but didnt put it down Dad said this K301A transplant(1967) had NO balance gears when he overhauled it years ago.Serial # C 018359, to late for a stroll to the shed tonight for the spec #. I have no need to open this engine up yet, but she runs like she has no balance gears. I vibrate a little after each use. I will post the complete engine # tomorrow if I remember
I replaced my pin with a bolt and drilled and put
in a cotter pin to hold it in place,used a washer
and pin on both ends.Didn`t have the clearence to
leave the bolt end in place. i think a grade 8
and cut off head and thread (6 in) did my 129.
in a cotter pin to hold it in place,used a washer
and pin on both ends.Didn`t have the clearence to
leave the bolt end in place. i think a grade 8
and cut off head and thread (6 in) did my 129.
I still have not found the photo of the axle pivot bolt I've been looking for but I did find this:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Steve Blunier (Sblunier) on Tuesday, December 07, 2004 - 12:21 pm:
Grade 8 Bolts & drilling.
I have never had any problems drilling grade 8 fasteners...we're not talkin' tool steel here. A good sharp drill bit and reasonable drilling technique will get it done every time.
I run grade 8 3/4" bolts in my axle pivots, cut to specific length and cross drilled for an abreviated slotted nut......no issues with how it works, or with making them.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Steve Blunier (Sblunier) on Tuesday, December 07, 2004 - 12:21 pm:
Grade 8 Bolts & drilling.
I have never had any problems drilling grade 8 fasteners...we're not talkin' tool steel here. A good sharp drill bit and reasonable drilling technique will get it done every time.
I run grade 8 3/4" bolts in my axle pivots, cut to specific length and cross drilled for an abreviated slotted nut......no issues with how it works, or with making them.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Steve B, Dave Kamp, Terry Busch,
I have recently purchased a 1450 with a Johnson Loader.
I am curious as to how much tire pressures you guys are running and how much weight.
Tire pressures 15 psi all corners.
I have TruPowers front and rear 23x10.50. Rears are filled plus inside/starter weights @ 70#s each. Total of all fluids/weights on rear axle is 250#.
I know I need more just looking for some guidelines.
Thanks to all on the forum.
No offense intended if I did not ask for somebodies opinion. Please chime in with your numbers, too.
I have recently purchased a 1450 with a Johnson Loader.
I am curious as to how much tire pressures you guys are running and how much weight.
Tire pressures 15 psi all corners.
I have TruPowers front and rear 23x10.50. Rears are filled plus inside/starter weights @ 70#s each. Total of all fluids/weights on rear axle is 250#.
I know I need more just looking for some guidelines.
Thanks to all on the forum.
No offense intended if I did not ask for somebodies opinion. Please chime in with your numbers, too.
Charlie, thanks for the help locating these.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Scott Tanner " NY has cows, too!" (Stanner) on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 08:22 pm:
Here are some pics of the axle bolt set-up on my 149. I thought that the bolt had to be turned down to clear the oil pan, but not so. It has to clear the mule drive. Notice the roll pin to keep the nut in place..<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Scott Tanner " NY has cows, too!" (Stanner) on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 08:22 pm:
Here are some pics of the axle bolt set-up on my 149. I thought that the bolt had to be turned down to clear the oil pan, but not so. It has to clear the mule drive. Notice the roll pin to keep the nut in place..<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
