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Archive through August 20, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Park Rapids Mn.
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Digger
Pretty good right up Jeremiah!
We probably should tell everyone that the conversation we had was with me setting at my desk and you driving down the road talking Cub stuff, LOL

I'll have to give him credit though!
He did pull over and stop to get his credit card out to place an order over the phone. ;-P

Someone really needs to get Jeremiah and new Monkey wrench! Or at least a bigger Crescent.
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Thanks for the picture of the back side of a 149 ignition switch. The PO cut off the three pin connector so I will need to create my own connections to the new ignition switch.

So I need to know what wires, by color, go to the B, S and M designators on the backside of the ignition switch.

Will take a picture of what the PO installed once it is removed.

Thanks.
 
I was moving some dirt yesterday and used my Cubs and box scraper to level some low areas near some trees in the front yard. It was a day of problems and failures.

I had the 1000 set up for the scraper because the 1450 has the tiller gearbox behind it. My friend was moving dirt from the lower half of our lot up to the top to extend the level area behind my garage. Last year i got about 700 yards moved in for free. The local water company did some work last summer and had dirt they gave away for free. I was able to level a sloped area of my lot and have plenty of extra for other projects.

The 1000 kept getting stuck. I would drag dirt down a hill and the scraper would dig in high centering the rear wheels. I should have let it float but decided to go to the 1450 because the spring assist in the 1000 took some weight off the scraper and I wanted to use the hydraulic lift.

I took the tiller gearbox and mount off the 1450 and moved the lower mount from the 1000 to the 1459. The box scraper performed much better behind the 1450. I stopped for lunch and found a puddle under my 1450. The lift hose had a pinhole leak the sprayed the blower cover. The fluid ran down the cover into the flywheel which blew up forward all over the engine. What a mess.

I was working on my 1450 when I heard a loud bang. My friend blew a front tire on his Ford 454C moving dirt up the hill. He found a shop that had a new tire and a coupe hours later was moving dirt. We moved about 60 or 70 yards yesterday.

I hope to get some more moved today and I am going to see if the Napa in town can make me a new hose. That Cub and scraper are handy for getting in tight areas to smooth dirt. The original hose was on there for 41 years so I can't complain about it failing.
 
Jim K -

Pic of:
Orange Green Black
Three Pin Connector HERE: just a little further down the page than the back side of ignition switch,,,,,

1x8/9 series wiring diagram shows proper wiring color code,
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Hope that helps,,,,,
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I've got problems with my 1450/K321. It will start up bu runs with a slight popping from the carbuator. THEN it starts missing and stops. Won't start back up. I have tried 3 coils, 2 sets of points, new Plug (NKG and champion) new plug wire,new key switch, At wits end. I'm going to take off remaining sheet metal from engine top, and look for blown head gasket. I can change points and it will start up for a minute or less, die and then nothing . It does have a spark if you take a new plug, attach the plug wire and ground it to the base of mower.weak reddish spark. I've got a new carb arriving monday. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS IN ADVANCE Jerry
 
I'm going to be sandblasting my sheet metal on my 1282 soon I'm looking at decals I see there are new, and new old stock ones. Any recommendations on which kit to buy? I have dealt with adhesive problems with older decals. But I want them to match.
 
Allan

New from Charlie or maple hunter. Quality stuff!
 
Russ
Yes. I have changed the condenser twice. My carb came in today. I'll put it on, but I think my problem is electric in nature. Pulling my hair out. Never had one to get to me like this one. Thanks
 
I wonder if I have got a hold of some bad prime line points. But the first one I tried was Kolher brand. Question? Should the points show a lot of spark when firing? I now am questioning things that never crossed my mind before. Thanks
 
I am getting ready to buy a front wheel lift for my zero turn that will handle 350 lbs. Is that enough to handle my 149?
 
Jerry G,

Have you checked your safety switches and all connections for good continuity?
Another thing that comes to mind, maybe the timing is off?
Another thought: double check and make sure it is getting fuel.

Jason W,

Here is how my 128 lights (same series as yours) were/is wired:

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David G.
You better buy 2!
According to the Cub Cadet Datasheet, the weight of the 149 is 695 lbs.

According to the IH Sales Lit of 1972, the 149 had a Shipping Weight of 870 lbs. Now, bear in mind, that weight is crated, with No Fluids, nor any Options.
 
Jason,

Where's those purty tires? Figured you would have them on by now.
They looked good on your tractor, I bet they look even better on the rims!
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From what the guys say, chains work better on turf tires.
I tried chains on my ags, and they did not want to "lay" right. Seems like they wanted to ride down between the ribs on the tire.
I believe some even said turf tires had better traction in the snow too.
 

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Charlie,

David will be ok, if he only lifts the front end up, he will only be lifting 347.5 lbs!
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Jerry W. Gilliam: You wrote: "Question? Should the points show a lot of spark when firing?"

Answer: NO!

Explanation: It is the job of the condenser to "soak up" the spark across the points. The condenser (which is known as a capacitor in electronic circles) is charged by the current which would otherwise transfer the energy via the spark you mention. The condenser (capacitor) aids the points in their job of interrupting the flow of current through the primary side of of the coil (which is in electrical terms is a transformer).

Key Point: When the points open, it triggers the magnetic field generated by the primary side of the coil (transformer) to collapse. The collapsing field of the primary winding induces a voltage in the secondary side of the coil (transformer) in direct proportion to the ratio of the number of turns in each winding (the winding on the primary side of the coil [transformer], and the secondary side of the coil [transformer]). So . . . The 12 volts through a few turns of wire is "transformed" into 20,000 volts through the many turns of wire in secondary winding. The power remains pretty much the same, so the 12 volt, primary, side consumes a lot of current; but the secondary side not so much. The "potential" (another name for voltage) of the secondary side DOES, however possess the ability to to "leap across" significant air gaps, where you want them to --from the electrode of the spark plug to ground.

Take Away: When you're seeing weak, reddish, spark from the electrode of the spark plug, it is the result of the spark at the plug being robbed of its energy by the spark at the points. Instead of dropping off suddenly (big collapse in the 12 volt field = big spark in the 20,000 field), it is tailing off slowly, so the "spark" fizzles at the plug.

Jerry: <u>Buy a new condenser.</u> Like Kendal Harvey said (and Charlie confirmed).

(Sometimes when you think too much, you confuse yourself; we all do it, it is called over-thinking.)

If you can't find one specifically for a Cub Cadet / Kohler, a condenser for an automobile will work for testing purposes (I'm still running one on my 149). Only when you get a nice blue spark at the plug would I move on to investigate fuel issues.

Just my two cents.
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Aside: Thanks, Mike.

Charlie: I never stopped driving 70 MPH on the Jersey Turnpike as we talked.

(And I'll keep my Monkey Wrench, thank you [big Craftsman "Crescent Wrench" is at work, although I could bring a big Tony "Crescent" wrench home].)
Why don't you show us a picture of your big Crescent wrench?
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Just to add to Jeremiah's great write-up, the condenser needs a good ground. I've had the mounting nut come loose and the engine started missing, backfiring and died.
 
Let's not forget to hook the condenser to the negative side of the coil.
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