proessler
Well-known member
Sarah for more ideas concerning a front bucket take a look at ,http://www.johnnyproducts.com}
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Archive through August 18, 2013
- Thread starter abriar
- Start date
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mhomrighausen
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- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Sarah K. Keep us posted on what you decide.
skliethermes
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- displayname
- Sarah Kliethermes
Will do - especially if I find a deal on a johnnybucket or a johnson loader!
After a long list of issues, with my 1450, I have pulled the engine to replace the motor mounts, have the head heli coiled and rebuild the steering box. After looking at the rebuild kits, I determined that 125.00 could be better put to use for power steering. Using my 1864 and DX 22e has spoiled me, not that I need it by any means, but its an excuse to play with metal, hydraulics, and my cub.
I wanted to make this project as affordable and quick as possible. I'm going to try and keep it around 250.00 for the actual parts, but who knows, it could cost a thousand before its all said and done. Here are a list of objectives.
1. Fully functioning and tighter steering (end stop to end stop)
2. Does not interfere with attachments, i.e. mower, snow blower, saddle tanks.
3. Factory appeal, does not take away from looks of tractor
4. Wallet friendly
So far I am 1/3 through the project. The first hurdle was location of the steering cylinder (A QL hyd. lift cylinder). After pondering I located it between the frame rails under the tractor at approximately the same angle as the drag link from the axle to the steering box. I am mounting the cylinder ridged to the frame, and using an inline ball joint to attach the cylinder rod to the drag link.
I built the main cylinder bracket at an angle that catches both the RH frame rail and the 3/4" rod under the foot rests. I have ample room for hyd. filter replacement and room for the cooling fan (getting replaced). Only concern is the sub frame leveling arm from mower deck interfering with the bracket. Ill cross that bridge later.
Next I built an adapter plate for the 1/2" tie rod end that mounts to the spindle bracket. This little adapter merely places the tie rod in the same height position in relation to the axle as the smaller 3/8" tie rod end. It uses the existing tie rod 3/8" hole plus one additional 3/8" hole. Depending on how it all works out I may have to gusset the spindle bracket.
I hate drilling holes in original Cub iron, but I have only drilled 2, and do not plan to drill any more, let alone ones inhibiting future replacement of the original controls.
Currently I am waiting on the power steering column, and inline ball joint to show up before it can advance. To date, I have spent $198.25 on parts, and used scrap pieces of steel laying around the shop. The lift cylinder was one I had, and I'm using the original front axle, spindles, etc...
I wanted to make this project as affordable and quick as possible. I'm going to try and keep it around 250.00 for the actual parts, but who knows, it could cost a thousand before its all said and done. Here are a list of objectives.
1. Fully functioning and tighter steering (end stop to end stop)
2. Does not interfere with attachments, i.e. mower, snow blower, saddle tanks.
3. Factory appeal, does not take away from looks of tractor
4. Wallet friendly
So far I am 1/3 through the project. The first hurdle was location of the steering cylinder (A QL hyd. lift cylinder). After pondering I located it between the frame rails under the tractor at approximately the same angle as the drag link from the axle to the steering box. I am mounting the cylinder ridged to the frame, and using an inline ball joint to attach the cylinder rod to the drag link.
I built the main cylinder bracket at an angle that catches both the RH frame rail and the 3/4" rod under the foot rests. I have ample room for hyd. filter replacement and room for the cooling fan (getting replaced). Only concern is the sub frame leveling arm from mower deck interfering with the bracket. Ill cross that bridge later.
Next I built an adapter plate for the 1/2" tie rod end that mounts to the spindle bracket. This little adapter merely places the tie rod in the same height position in relation to the axle as the smaller 3/8" tie rod end. It uses the existing tie rod 3/8" hole plus one additional 3/8" hole. Depending on how it all works out I may have to gusset the spindle bracket.
I hate drilling holes in original Cub iron, but I have only drilled 2, and do not plan to drill any more, let alone ones inhibiting future replacement of the original controls.
Currently I am waiting on the power steering column, and inline ball joint to show up before it can advance. To date, I have spent $198.25 on parts, and used scrap pieces of steel laying around the shop. The lift cylinder was one I had, and I'm using the original front axle, spindles, etc...
Trent..Looks great so far! You've been a busy man doing and figuring all that out. Sometime when you have a few minutes email me some info on stacking the hydraulic valves on my 1864. Once again..nice looking work!
