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Archive through August 14, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Should have asked question again as my other post is a page back now. Are these IH manufactured weights ? I assume that's what the IH is.. or I hope. (pics in post below below)

Thanks, clint
 
After about 10 minutes of running the pipe leading to my muffler is red hot. I am getting two answers from different people. Some say running rich, some say way lean. Seems to run smoothly otherwise. Any help would be appreciated. P.S. please hep me remember so I turn jet clockwise to lean it out?
 
Charles H.-

It's WAY lean. Clockwise leans the mixture. I would suggest downloading the Kohler K-series manual from their website so you can learn how to properly adjust the carb.
 
Lewis

You are correct, I should have known !! I argued with someone thinking it said IH, and thank you for telling me I'm reading them upside down !! I even had the person I was arguing convinced the weights said IH, never less I'm glad I got some weights, which I think they weigh more than 25 pounds each, or I may be getting old... I will weigh them just to ease my mind. I will weigh them tomorrow.

The correct numbers on the weights are 1307 HI, no idea what they came off of, anyone else have an idea ?
 
Charles H.
Lean fuel mixtures can cause it to run hot, but so can retarded timing, as the fuel will still be burning when the exhaust valve opens. Adjust your main jet by closing it up all the way, then backing it out between 2 and 2 1/2 turns. Use this as a starting point. Turn the screw on the main jet in until the engine starts to "lean out", then back it out until it starts to run too rich, then run it back in a bit.

Check and adjust your point gap (maximum opening should be about .020"). This should get you pretty close. If you have a timing light there is a mark on the flywheel that will be visible through the hole on the right side of the blower housing, but often that mark is very difficult to see. I'll run the engine about 2/3 speed and go back and forth a couple of times between the carburetor main jet and the points to find the sweet spot, where the engine seems to strain the least to maintain a certain RPM, and still respond crisply when the throttle is opened.

If after this, you are still having trouble, make sure the points assembly is ok. A cracked piece of bakelite on the points on my 129 drove me crazy trying to keep the points adjusted earlier this summer, replacing the bad points made all the difference.

If you can't get the carb to run rich, then it's time to pull it off and clean it out because you probably have a partially clogged jet.
 
Clint:
I have an idea, based on what the PO said:
Look for something like this on 'em..:
168263.jpg
 
ok i asked this question a while back but didnt get the best answer, i need to know what size mower deck i have to order blades but i dont have the blades that were on it to measure from and the ID tag is gone also, so im just asking that those of you with wide frame triangular decks measure them edge to edge or outside spindle to outside spindle and tell me what size deck the measurements go with so i can figgure out what size deck this is.
thanks
Matt
 
Clint- I got a set of weights just like that years ago off an old Sears Suburban, so I'd agree that they are indeed Sears weights. I painted them yellow and ran them on Cub Cadets for years until I was able to find the correct weights.
 
Matt S.
If I remember right you were asked to post a picture!
Flip the deck over and measure it blade tip to blade tip.
You say you have one particular deck, but who knows if the PO changed the pulleys, modified it yo their own specs or quirks or even changed everyone from one deck to another to make it work!
It's kinda like asking everyone why your Cub won't start. There's no way for anyone to say without giving you the probably 340+ answers to the question.
biggrin.gif
 

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