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Archive through August 10, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dfrisk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
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Dennis Frisk
JEFF - Welcome to The CC forum. The number you posted that's on the rearend casting is actually the casting PART number. My parts books (and Cub Cadets) are out in the shop but I think that's the casting number for ALL gear drive Cub Cadets. The rearends all use the same casting.
A #86 CC is kinda rare. It should have a small 8 HP Kohler engine, a model K181 according to the stickers on the left side of the engine when sitting on the seat.
If you can tell us if it's a gear drive, three forward & and reverse gear, or a Hydro-static transmission, infinetely variable forward & reverse, or there were a couple CC's made with a 4-speed Peerless rearend, 4-forward & a reverse. Also does it have round rear wheel fenders, or stylized 1-piece formed fenders?

All these questions help to nail down what model your CC is. Once you take the engine or HP variations and gear drive vs hydro variations out there's really only seven possible models it can be. And if you can post pictures that makes things even easier!
 
Kendal.
Take the old leather packing out and you can use a 1/8" O ring. I usually use two, which makes it about as thick as the leather packing was..
 
Does anyone know where to get a Tensioner arm? or do i have to replace the whole tensioner in a 582 special?
 
Thanks Hydro Harry for the speck link on my 12K. I had an appointment and never made it to the shop before it closed.I do have the info printed and will have to drive the 62 miles again to drop the 125 12K off for the rebore.I will go in soon because I want my 125 running soon.Thanks again Don T
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Paul Bell

LoL I know this is not the correct police way but I used a piece of vacuum house and put that in there and it did work for me .when your as far away as me you have to work with what you got lol.
 
Dennis- Thanks for your response. This one has 3 forward and reverse, it has a K181 engine and the fenders are 1 piece formed. My wide hitch i want to put on it is too wide thats why i thought it might not be an 86. Can't post a picture right now.
 
Greetings to all:

I have a model 1450 Hydro. Had the hydro fluid and filter changed and an now having trouble with the tractor jumping forward when you push the lever. Reverse works great. No jerking, just creeps if you don't find neutral exactly. Worked O.K. before I had the fluid and filter changed.

Also, engine vibrates like all the motor mounts are broke, but the mechanic said they were fine.

Would appreciate any help/advise.

J E from Blue Springs MO
 
A month or so ago I wondered if the lift on a 149 would lift a tiller and snow blower at the same time?

Well I will say no, I did not try a snow blower but did try my 42 snow blade and tiller.
It did lift it but did not like it.

So now I am wondring if any one knows is the lift cylinder working hardest when lifting or when its holding in the raised position?
 
jeff l baker
Have you checked the output pressure of you hydro to see if the lift cylinder is getting full pressure? I think it will lift 800 lbs and if it doesn`t then check the pressure from the hydro. my .02
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JEH, just an off the wall thought, you sure the new filter is one for hydro use. I believe hydro filters dont have any sort of 'valve' like car oil filters.
 
J E Hutchens

(I have a model 1450 Hydro. Had the hydro fluid and filter changed and an now having trouble with the tractor jumping forward when you push the lever. Reverse works great. No jerking, just creeps if you don't find neutral exactly. Worked O.K. before I had the fluid and filter changed.

Also, engine vibrates like all the motor mounts are broke, but the mechanic said they were fine. )

You have a problem with the drive shaft,might be a bad flex disk on the drive shaft. That will cause all kinds of issues with vibrations and poor response from the hydro.Have a look and let us know if all looks good and do a neutral adjust and see if that helps . keep us posted as to your progress.You might need the small spring replaced on the trunnion !
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jeff l baker
I reread your post and you need another Cub and have the tiller on one and snow blade on another lol.hydraulic pressure will lift a blower but if the seals are weak in the lift cylinder it will not lift or hold as good if the seals are worn. It will leak back and cause the cylinder to loose pressure. that is normal for a well used cylinder I think.
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well i got the trans out of the 100 thaqt was stuck in reverse

what i am seeing so far is

chipped tooth on the 2nd and third sliding gear

the first and second shifter fork is broke going around the shaft(but it still bolts together)the bolt seems to be loose and i think the was some of the problem

the main thing that i see missing and why the tractor would pop out of gear is i am missing the gear shift poppet ball and spring form the reverse side


thanks
 
chris rolke
I got parts here but you would not want the shipping bill
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. You should be able to find a good trans cheap and change it over unless you are good at doing the gear change in the tranny.you might look and find a good parts tractor ,it will come in handy
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Allen Schumacher

I know Fords had a check valve so that the cam and lifters would not loose oil when you shut them down. on start up the filter had a pressure check valve so oil did not drain away from the block.I had a bowtie 6 cylinder that had 6 lbs at idle and 12 at wot.

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I can post like this because Charlies internet is down lol
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Jeff H - if you have a model 86 there should be a serial number tag on the left side of the frame just forward of the brake pedal. Post that complete number and someone on here will be able to tell if it is a model 86. The numbers 86 should be large letters on the side of the dash and not on the hood itself.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes the parts get switched around)
 
what other models would work with a 100?

i waqs just comparing part numbers to an original and those dont look like the would work
 
chris rolke

I think the O is different but after that you should be good as IH did make a lot of parts the same for all. Look at parts look up and take the trans numbers and do a search and see for your self. its always good to know what will work
re

I should know better,I think that if you took the front adapter plate or what Cub called it. as tapered space is all it is connected to the trans that I think will fit a 100 also. Someone please correct me (Charlie)
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That exhaust thread CAN be cut deeper. Most any oil will help the job but go very slow. will be easy to get off center to the threads and start to strip what is left. Can be a pain. Harbor freight pipe taps are better than most of their others. the taper of the thread for pipe is in your favor. Have never heard of a bottoming tap for pipe thread though. A shop vac or a extension on a blow nozzle will get the chips out, just have the engine valve shut. Thread is 1"!
 
JE Hutchens - As Don T mentioned, you probably need to replace the trunion springs on your hydro. Check the FAQs at the top of this page for a lot of good info on hydro surge, lurching, trunion repair, etc. Also, you can double-check the motor mounts (called ISO mounts = noise isolation mounts) by standing next to the tractor (either side) with the hood open, and grabbing the engine, try to rock it side to side. If the mounts are good, the whole tractor will move. If they're shot, you'll know; the motor will rock, independent of the tractor. Good luck!
 
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