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Archive through April 17, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bleyland

Active member
Joined
Apr 4, 2007
Messages
29
displayname
Bob Leyland
104 UPDATE
==========

1) 42" Mower Deck
- replaced center spindle
(takes a bit to get up to speed, but now spins MUCH faster than ever before. Thought I might take off like a Harrier.)
- PTO belt may be worn and not gripping well. Will replace.

2) Battery not charging?
- Started maybe 4 times with a new Gold Die Hard battery. Then seemed totally dead.

What's the best method to test for the problem here?

Thanks.
 
Bob L:

1) Check the mule drive pulleys and adjust for a tighter belt and make sure all spindles have been greased.

2) Your batteries are trying to overcome very high ground path resistance and not succeeding. Your problem is most likely a bad ground circuit. Quickly solve the problem by simply buying youself a NEW slightly longer ground cable and this time connect the chassis end at the S/G mounting bracket with good metal-to-metal contact - then paint over it!! Don't play cheapout here... get a new heavy duty one!! You will like the results

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Myron - You left out ... over time the chassis ground from the battery gets rust under the cable lug as also the engine to chassis mount and generator to engine mounting.

We've discussed bad grounds maybe 4 times in this month alone ?? I keep welding cable and plenty of big copper crimp lugs on hand for that sort of thing ... and my trolling motors. The braided copper shield on tv , cb coax also makes nice ground straps with terminals soldered on for less than engine cranking amps ;)
 
Gents, after reading the forums I'm still confused about setting up the Brinly plow. I read once about setting the tractor up on 6 inch blocks boards etc but can't find it again to get the measurements for the point and board I think it was point 1 1/4 on the point with the back of the mow board touching. Is there a easier way?Also is there a rule of thumb for the coulter or is it by trial and error Thanks.
It's a 10 inch plow and will go on a 1650. Semper Fi
 
John Hooke

Easyest way I find to set up a Brinly plow befor going out to the feild to dial it in is to set the front & rear left tires up on 6 inch blocks.
Adjust the plow so the point of the share ison the ground and the tail end of the landslide is 1 inch off the ground. As far as the coultor goes, it all depends on the type of soil you are plowing, but the rule of thumb that I go by is, the coulter should cut into the soil no less that 3 inches. The coulter needs to be adjusted so it does not swing past the moldboard, it is ok for it to swing away from the plow. When looking at it from the rear of the plow, the coulter can swing to the left but should not swing right past the edge of the moldboad.
 
Brian B.

From the photos you posted of your clutch I can see the teaser spring is broken.
 
John - in the FAQ is a link by Steve for setting up a plow. If it's not in the first FAQ there's a link there for Charlie's FAQ. It's there somewhere ;)
 
Hey Lonny,

Take a second look, there is more than just a broken teaser spring, don't forget the antirattle springs, a missing pin driver, seperating friction disc, wollowed out pivot and throw out lever........... and it still plows! This is one damn tough little tractor no doubt about it.
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Hehehehe.
rofl.gif
I saw a lot of 'looks', like, is that thing going to make it? It's ok, for every strange look I got I think I recevied twice as much incouragement most of the time from the same people. LOL. Seriously though, I've got to get the clutch cover back from the previous owner before I get some one hurt with my little rattle trap.
 
Ammeter Question.

Did the 1200 have more than one type of ammeter? I was looking at a friend's 1200 that he bought new and it has a different ammeter. This meter has numbers on it and more divisions. He says it was never changed.

Also...are there two different types of ISO rubber mounts. He showed me what the local cub dealer sold him to replace the worn mounts and they are different from what I am familiar with.

Maybe Kraig has pictures of these items.
 
Frank - They came out with a "make do" replacement a few years back because the original mounts became NLA from the supplier. I have pics and write up about it from "The Man" himself if you want it ... and I can find it. I've changed 'puters so much I've lost ALOT of stuff
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Brian B.

That just goes to show you how tough these cub cadet realy are.
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Even when they are about ready to fall apart they keep chugging along
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Brian,
Drop on down, I have enough parts laying around here off an old 102 to fix you up.
 
What's the story on the 42" mower decks? I've read some good and some bad things on them.
 
Hi, can anyone tell me if John Deere Hy-Guard will work in my 1650 trans? My Cub Cadet Dealer said he thinks they are both the same specs but since neither one has any info. on the bottle I can't be sure. Any help would be appreciated, Chris.
 
Can anyone tell me if I can replace aluminum axle tubes from a cast rear 782 with cast iron tubes and if there are any problems in doing so?

The reason I want to do this is that I have some aluminum tubes that are broken or cracked on both sides.

Also I'm in the dark here. Can anyone tell me why the aluminum tubes are so dang expensive even used? I really don't know but I have not been liking the prices I've been finding on them.

Thanks
Jason
 
Chris, Click the last two Archive links just above that say:

Archive through April 15, 2007
Archive through April 16, 2007

And read both pages from the bottom up. Very much discussion on Hytran there.

Failing that if you run a search on the key word Hy-tran you will find enough information on Hy-Tran to keep you reading to next Christmas.
 
Did the thrust washer conversion (part of FAQ 16 super steering box rebuild) and replaced the drag link and tie rod ends with a set of McMaster-Carr 6072K33 Heim style joints with integrated studs ( thanks for that tip, Terry Busch !) on the 129 tonight. Took about an hour to do - I cannot believe the improvement in steering effort - it <u>is </u>like putting power steering on it. I didn't do the complete box rebuild right now, I'm gonna wait for a tear down this summer. One question - I notice the box is moving on the steering tube and it looks like it's because the crossmember that the steering box is bolted to is flexing - I checked for cracks - everything looks ok - is this a common problem? I can see a little fabrication project there...
 
Timothy - In my opinon they are JUNK from the factory because of the way they seen fit to use a worn out blade as the design for new blades ! ... BUT for some reason even the newer 42" decks with Gator blades still don't cut. Got one! 42's suck!
 
Dennis Frisk: Thanks for the advise. Sounds like the way that I'll go if I have to.

Kraig Mc: Look what showed up in my yard today!

55297.jpg

I live about 5 miles outside of Baltimore City. See plenty of deer, foxes, coons, snakes etc. But a Turkey? Brian L
 
Jason H.
Not a problem at all changing out the aluminum tubes, they are the same as the cast iron, just lighter.
They are pricey because the pullers like to use them.
 

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