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Archive through April 03, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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shunt

Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
22
displayname
Steve Hunt
Hey, Ryan!
Have you ever seen a cat skeleton up in a tree?
Didn't think so.
Leave the little boogers alone and they'll come down when they're good and ready.

Now back on topic with a question.
Are the rear wheel lug bolts for a 782 a standard size that can be found at an
auto parts store or do I need to contact a sponsor?
 
Ryan -

You must be doing something wrong, cuz the PD 7 subtopic has got a good string of posts going.

Yes, you're right, though, nobody but the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">Democracy of Two&#153;</FONT> can post to the main PD page...
 
Craig D,
The # on your old rod is a casting # not a
part #. when you get a new rod, the # on the rod won't be the same as the # on the box it comes in.

Wyatt,
The last couple engines I rebuilt seemed to have sloppy valve guides too. I have a telescoping
gauge small enough to measure them and they all were within the wear tolerences.

Steve H,
Does your 782 have studs with nuts, or bolts?
If it has bolts you may be able to get them locally they are 7/16 fine thread. If it has the studs with nuts, you will probably have to get them from CC. They are 7/16 coarse thread.
 
Dave:

You stole my dyno idea. I am building one using the disc brake design that you mentioned. Mounting the caliper on a pivot so I can measure the load that the caliper places on the brake. Using a moment arm with a set distance so I can calculate ft/pounds of torque. Using a master cylinder with a screw that moves the cylinder psiton to apply the disc brake. Just got my pillow block bearings today so I can start mounting the items.

What do you use to connect the load cell to a computer? And what program do you use to record and compute with?
 
Dave, Frank-
FWIW, and from our venture with a small engine dyno in college, it's possible to use an oil pressure sender on a small hydraulic cylinder to have a scale on your dyno, use a magnetic pickup sensor like a crank sensor or an ABS wheel sensor might work. They're all basice 5V input voltage and with some freeware a Palm Pilot can be used to collect data and dump torque vs RPM into MS Excel.
 
Ryan,
I'd use a leaf blower to get the cat outta' the tree. If that didn't work, the next step would be the 22. I love cats!
angry.gif
 
Hey Frank, Hey Wyatt!

Yeah, the disk-brake works fine, as long as you're not doing long-term loads... the disk heat-soaks quickly, and with cooling time between pulls being relatively short, the disk doesn't last too long. Personally, I wouldn't use a screw to actuate the master cylinder... I'd probably just make a special lever to pull by hand, mebbie a little longer than the original, and a master cylinder with a little smaller diameter than normal, to decrease effort... simply 'cause it's faster between application and release. Getting a 'steady' application isn't really all that tough, and a 'pull' will only last about 3 seconds.

Wyatt's tone-wheel is a good suggestion, but if you're doing pulls at 5000rpm, and it's a 100-tooth wheel... that's a pretty high frequency tone... my choice would be to use a hall-effect or active-reluctance (amplified-coil) sensor of some type (probably an industrial device scavenged from one of my clients' junque-piles).

As for interfacing, my personal method would be to make a circuit specific for gathering data- probably use a MicroElectronics PIC 16F876 at 20mhz to count tooth pulses and measure reaction-arm load. If I was really concerned about accuracy, I'd probably use a made-for-force type load-cell that falls in the de-facto industry standard of 12-15vdc in, and either 2-20mA out or 2-12v out pressure signals. I'd have the PIC just grab a series of pulse counts and ADC conversion counts, and dump 'em out the PIC's serial port to a PC, and make a silly program that just grabs it from the serial port, calculates RPM, converts the ADC counts, and poops it into either a text-file or spreadsheet.

Without doing a PIC-type sampling adapter, a good software-type guru could use the PC sound-card, with one input going to the speed sensor, and the other going to the load-cell... most sound-cards will tolerate and measure a certain amount of DC offset, so you'd probably be able to get a decent reading by simply writing your own DSP code to grab and process... or you could look in Digi-Key, Mouser, or other places for a plug-and-play type compu-scope adapter... they're awfuly pricy. For comparison, the little PIC-based telemetry adapters I make for one of my clients run about $20 a unit in quantities of 250, including all parts, labor, etc... the dyno adapter wouldn't require any more parts or complexity, so it'd probably be in the same realm... just a matter wether the world of Average Joes really wanted their own dyno.


As for software (and I haven't done much programming since using PASCAL in college)
I'd leave the rpm/torque relationship to a spreadsheet algorithm... as I'd want to compare both power-at-a-given-point, AND integral power, as well as the effect of engine inertial moment... not something that's necessary for the average tractor engine, but if I hooked it to a go-kart or motorcycle engine, I'd want to know how the engine's moment would affect my time-through-gears... it obviously has much higher effect in lower gears, but not as much in higher... so being able to measure and predict makes it easier to determine where to draw the line between smoothness and rip-snort zippy.

But I'd hafta build mine using about a 100gpm/4000psi hydraulic pump and a BIG heat exchanger... and a jackshaft that'll plug into the propshaft of my boats... something that'll soak mebbie... 350-400hp...
 
Anybody else get dizzy when Dave talks?...
dizzy.gif
<font size="-2">Just teasin' ya Dave...</font>

A friend called today asking if I had a tiller for one of the Cubs so I could till up his garden. I told him I have a tiller, but the PTO on the 149 needs to be rebuilt so it wasn't working. He says, "O.K....How about a plow?" Needless to say, I was loaded up and over to his place in less than a half-hour!
buttrock.gif


Bryan-
2-years???? Didn't they make us trade in all of our cassette tapes for CD's back in the 80's because they didn't last long enough? <font size="-2">Cost me a mint to replace all of those BOSTON, VAN HALEN, AND DEF LOPARD tapes back in H.S.</font>
happy.gif
 
Art-

Don't forget RUSH, Blue Oyster Cult, Deep Purple, Iron Maiden, Ronnie James Dio and Krokus!

(I recently pulled out all these old albums from my collection and recorded 'em to MP3!)

Did some work on the 109 tonight- yanked the left-side knuckle, welded the drag-link hole shut, and moved the hole about half-a-hole's width closer to the kingpin, to get a little bit more steering angle from lock-to-lock. Seems to be okay, but we'll go for a spin (oooh... bad pun) tomorrow!

Also welded a gusset to the front, probably do the other knuckle that way too... dunno about the back- if they're not stiffened-up with just one, I'll probably make another set of knuckles out of 1/2" plate (like Loader-Mutt).

Got my homemade sleeve-hitch mounting plate done, looks good... now I gotta get some 3/8" bar stock and bend me up a sleeve-hitch... and a pair of arms for a 3-point... and a 3-point reciever hitch for moving the boat trailers around... mebbie a pair of mini-forks... :-}
 
Jim D., I had to relocate the left side gauge wheel on my 44A deck to run 10.50 ags, so I expect you really have to move 'em for the bigger tires. It didn't hit all the time, but every time I went over a little hump in the yard (which was frequently), it would push the gauge wheel braket up into the outside edge of the tire, and was starting to make those nice new ags look kinda ragged. The weld job on the relocated bracket isn't particularly pretty, but it does the job.
 
Ken "M",
I would think that the 12 X 12 X 26 tire might be too large of a diameter to work with a deck, not to mention the width. You'r also going to be sitting with a "rake" to the front. Might be some leveling issues there too.
 
Bill,

There is a friction adjustment on the hydro lever. It's a large nut (1" plus) you just tighten it or loosen it. It's inside the steering pedestall. I had to adjust one on a 125 once and it was a real pain to get to on the 125. I think it is a little easier on a 149. Someone on here with more experience should be able to fill in the details.

Scott
 
Hey Art- What is a cassette tape?
happy.gif


Steve H.- True, but this cat got run over and his rear leg has a double bend in it, and kick off to one side...besides, his name is Cub E. Cadet, I couldn't leave him up there!

Bryan- Yeah, I was tired last night...found it now though, and I have reservations at Holiday Inn.
 
Hi Bill! Scott's right. Take off the tunnel cover. Find the shaft that comes down from the ratio-lever... follow it down to the bottom- there's a little offset-bracket that holds the other end. On that bracket, is a little allen-screw and (nylock, I think) nut. Dig through your cigar-box of odd-sized allen-wrenches 'till you find the one that fits that screw, and put a tiny wrench on the nut... give it a little tightening, then give the ratio lever a little push-n-pull... you should feel the friction increase as you tighten the allen screw.
 
Art -

I don't know whether I can discern any better starting or running. For all I know, any improvements might have been due to actually retiming the engines
lol.gif


I did have to replace the points on the 1450 - the old ones were pretty gnarly.
 
Kenny M-
I run 24-12-12's with my 44GT deck (same as 44a-44c, just with a couple more features, mid '90's vintage deck) No rubbing, but my tires sit within 1/4" to 1/8" the inner fenders, but I'm only running about 5psi in the tires too. The tires are mounted on 8.5" wide rims, same as 10.50 wide tires, as per Carlisle's spec.
 
Thanks Scott and Dave!
I adjusted the hydro control lever friction in about five minutes. I now works fine.
I took several more minutes using a magnet to find all the allen wrenches when I dropped the holder they are kept in.
Bill

This could be the 2nd post about this but I don't believe the first one got sent.
 
Dave - instead of "counting teeth" how about using a rotory shaft encoder ? BEI encoders can count up to 72,000 cycles per turn.

I've got a simple tach circuit I snatched off the web sometime back that uses a PIC16C66 and what I assume is a photo diode although I've never checked the part number. I've often wanted to get into PIC's but haven't yet. Right now I'm still having fun with steeper motors and I've came up with some big kick a$$ servo motors with encoders.

Anybody know where I can get some positive photo board developer ? The place I use to get it from (mid 90's) has quit carrying it and other places are out. I'm getting to shake to use a resist pen.

cubcubcubcubcubcubcub 122127129<font size="-2">2166</font>
 

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