-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
782 Ignition Switch
- Thread starter cfischer
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Chuck F.
Get a new switch, cut the burnt connectors off, put new one's on you can buy at any auto parts store. Then buy some heat shrink tube and cover the terminals AFTER you coat things well with dielectric grease!
Get a new switch, cut the burnt connectors off, put new one's on you can buy at any auto parts store. Then buy some heat shrink tube and cover the terminals AFTER you coat things well with dielectric grease!
I have no way of telling from your pics.
It does look like you had some sort of water damage/corrosion on the switch at some point.
The only way to know for sure IMO would be to replace the problem pieces and start checking things out with an OHM meter.
That blue connector in the pic doesn't look to whiffy either.
It does look like you had some sort of water damage/corrosion on the switch at some point.
The only way to know for sure IMO would be to replace the problem pieces and start checking things out with an OHM meter.
That blue connector in the pic doesn't look to whiffy either.
ok, new switch, got all the wires cleaned up, she turns over very strongly, but I have no spark... it won't start, it turns over, the lights work, the peddle switch works, the pto switch works (meaning if I don't depress the brake peddle or if I have the PTO switch on it won't do anything) so I'm thinking I screwed something else up too... I'm somewhat a of novice when it comes to electrical... what could I have messed up?
so my serial is 733555 and none of the wire diagrams I have seen have these colors.
The orange wire also had a white wire with a pink stripe attached to it, but I traced that wire to the seat switch which had been unplugged so I didn't hook that wire back up. Left it dangling. I held that wire against the orange wire and tried to start it, still no go. I have no ideas what is wrong.
The orange wire also had a white wire with a pink stripe attached to it, but I traced that wire to the seat switch which had been unplugged so I didn't hook that wire back up. Left it dangling. I held that wire against the orange wire and tried to start it, still no go. I have no ideas what is wrong.
Chuck F.
Those colors you have don't mesh with either serial number range diagrams, which you already know.
Click the link below and trace the wires you have back to where they go and see if they are close to the diagram.
Who knows what someone else did to it, LOL
http://www.cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams/782a.jpg
Those colors you have don't mesh with either serial number range diagrams, which you already know.
Click the link below and trace the wires you have back to where they go and see if they are close to the diagram.
Who knows what someone else did to it, LOL
http://www.cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams/782a.jpg
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Hope you have the right switch... When I got my 782, it had a Q/L switch in it and would NOT charge the battery. It took me forever to figure that out, since they identical on the outside.
Not saying that's your problem, just something to look at.
Not saying that's your problem, just something to look at.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Chuck: If you have a 782 with the original KT17 motor in it, you should find the tractor wired as depicted in the following excerpt from the wiring diagrams Charlie referenced. Please note that the PTO Switch, the Reverse Relay, and the Seat Switch are all interlocked in such a way that if PTO is engaged, it will drop out if the driver either gets up from his (or her) seat, OR the tractor is thrown into reverse. My 782 has a lower S/N and it does not have the reverse relay, but everything else is there, that is, the Seat Switch is still interlocked with the PTO switch. The Orange wire also powers the hour meter which is energized each and every time the ignition key is turned on. Finally, check out Roland Bedell's excellent depictions of the the PTO switch and it's functions, I didn't have room to post them with ignition switch diagram.
I don't know how comfortable you are with 12 volt DC electric circuits, but you may want to pick a diagram for the 782, High or low S/N, and wire your tractor to it (which is the reason the diagrams are posted). However, many forum members report that it is far easier and less expensive to buy the entire wire harness new.
Marked-Up Excerpt of High S/N 782 Wiring Diagram:
I don't know how comfortable you are with 12 volt DC electric circuits, but you may want to pick a diagram for the 782, High or low S/N, and wire your tractor to it (which is the reason the diagrams are posted). However, many forum members report that it is far easier and less expensive to buy the entire wire harness new.
Marked-Up Excerpt of High S/N 782 Wiring Diagram:
