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3 Point Hitch & Draining Transmission Fluid Question

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sgalante

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Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
143
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Stephen Galante
I picked up my model 389 3 point hitch yesterday to attach to my 1512. Step #2 in the directions, says to

"Drain Transmission fluid from unit"

(It never really states anywhere to put it back in) But in step 10, it states to

"Remove the 2 hex bolts and spring washers from lower end of transaxle housing (both sides). Discard the hex bolt and save the spring washer for reassembly." NOTE: Loss of fluid can be expected at this time

If I have drained the fluid, what fluid are they talking about?

I guess my question, is do I really need to drain the transmission fluid, and when do I put it back in? The guys at C&G (where I was going to get a aftermarket 3 point hitch, until I found an original at the dealer) told me that I should not only drain the fluid, but take off the entire back plate and clean out the transmission housing with brake fluid replace the gasket, and refill with fresh fluid. Since I have less than 150 hours on the transmission fluid, I don't think that is necessary, neither does my dealer, but I asked them before I read the instructions in the 389 owners manual. I just don't want to mess anything up, and I don't want to have to drag the tractor to the dealer and pay them to install the hitch. What do I really need to do?

Thanks everyone for your help here... SteveG
 
Stephen - I don't know how old a 1512 is but if it's got more than the 150 hours on it that the fluid has then chances are that it'll have sludge and gel in the housing. Even if it was new , after 150 hours of use it wouldn't hurt to wipe the metal shavings out of the case from break-in wear. If it is high mileage and never cleaned out then it needs it. Moisture condenses inside the housing and water starts building up then the Hytran (or new equivalent) surrounds the water thus creating the sludge and yellow gel that you'd see. New fluid and filter are a little costly but good insurance in the long run.
 
Ken, thanks for replying here again. The 1512 is 1986/87. I have only had it for about 11 years now, and have had it gone through thoroughly by by dealer over the past several years. I know they have at least replaced the transmission fluid and filter in the last 150 hours or so. The machine has about 1100 - 1200 hours total (I have only put about 260 hours since purchasing it back in 1996) I guess I am questioning, when to put the transmission fluid back in, when it says it is going to leak in step #10. Should I wait until the whole (3 point) unit is on it or refill it before attaching the 3 point hitch (risking it leaking in step #10) I hope that makes sense... SteveG
 
Ok now I understand a little better since you explained a little better ;)

It sounds like whenever those 2 bolts are put back in (longer I guess with the hitch) then it should be ok to refill it. If you can still get to the fill plug after the hitch is installed I'd just wait until after it was bolted up and you know everything is installed right.

A word of advice about dealers and mechanics ... if you don't see it done don't take their word for it. I'd remove the cover and do what C&C said. You never know if they have ever removed the cover and wiped it out. There's been some awfully ugly pics posted here before of the sludge inside of a case.

I spent $600 trying to get good brakes on a Cherokee once because the dealer's mechanic wasn't doing what he said he was doing. ... oh and I sold it for $500 to get the piece of junk out of my yard! Another week and I'd have PAID someone to take it.
 
Stephen G:

Let me first say, that I have not installed this option on a Cub. I am merely offering suggestions based upon my experience.

Once you drain the Hydraulic Fluid (or Hytran), you would fill your Transmission back up once you hitch is installed here...
63659.jpg


Remove Dipstick (item #10) and pour into tube (item #9) until the transmission is at the proper level as indicated by the dipstick.

"Remove the 2 hex bolts and spring washers from lower end of transaxle housing (both sides). Discard the hex bolt and save the spring washer for reassembly." NOTE: Loss of fluid can be expected at this time. If I have drained the fluid, what fluid are they talking about?
This comment only applies if you did NOT drain the fluid.

NO...you do not have to drain the fluid "IF" a few rear end bolts need to be removed and/or replaced. But you could expect fluid oozing and/or loss. The amount of loss is dependant upon how long the bolts are out and how fast you are at re-installing them.

If you have to remove the back plate, then ALL the Hydraulic Fluid will have to be drained.
 
Is there a secret way to get the back plate off? I have taken out the top four bolts and the plate doesn't seem to want to move. I have hit it a few times from the front of the tractor with a large screwdriver and rubber mallet, and have gotten the bottom open enough to drain most of the fluid, but I was wanting to replace the gasket, and I can't do that until I get the back plate off. I'm afraid to just tighten everything up and put in new Transmission fluid, thinking the gasket, may not seal properly again. Thoughts??? SteveG
 
Steve,

I would do as C&G said. It will be alot easier without the 3 point on. If you don't do it now you will be changing it sooner and have to deal with the hitch in the way. It is a matter of how much work you want to do later, and how well you want to maintain your equipment. JMHO
 
Stephen G.
If you have all the bolts out, take that screw driver, slip it under the edge of the plate and twist! Do that all the way around and it will come off, not a problem.
Some one probably put gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket.
 
My dealer told me that gasket sealer was applied to both sides of the gasket at the factory when they were assembled.
 
Can someone post a pic of a cat o 3pt rockshaft for a super garden tractor....thanks
 
Nate,
If you click the Cub Cadet Parts Look Up Button above and enter in the model number of what your lookin for, it will show you all the parts of the tractor.
thumbsup_old.gif
 
Man that is neat...but can you still buy this parts?
we can't get the item to add to the cart.
 
If memory serves me right, there's some of the SGT parts that are NLA and many more in the next year that are going to be.
Along with many common Cub Cadet parts!
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Just in the last 2 months, I've gotten a list with over 200 parts gone POOF!
 
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