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  1. J

    Archive through July 07, 2006

    I'm needing some help.What are the part numbers for: Throw-out bearing Clutch release arm (wide frame) Clutch release arm (narrow frame) I'm out of town and can't get to my parts books. Thanks
  2. J

    Archive through April 03, 2006

    Rick, The grade 8 bolts will work just fine. You won't even have to drill the holes out. Just drive the spiral pins out and insert the 1/4 inch bolts. It's a good idea to use lock nuts so that they don't vibrate loose.
  3. J

    Archive through April 03, 2006

    Does anyone know for sure what engine the large base lifters that are being sold through several venders originally came out of? I've asked several people and there doesn't seem to be any common consensus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  4. J

    Archive through April 12, 2006

    Brent, Check to make sure that the intake valve is seating properly and that the valve lash is correct. If the intake valve is not seating, gasses will be forced backward through the carb on the compression and exhaust strokes. This backflow of gasses will draw additional fuel out of the carb...
  5. J

    Archive through March 22, 2006

    Lonny, If you were using the split washer with a stock spring and stock disk, it probably was one of the contributing factors to your clutch going out. The split washers exert quite a bit of outward force on the pressure plates and the stock spring is pretty marginal anyway. For plowing and...
  6. J

    Archive through March 19, 2006

    Lonny, The aluminum clutch is your culprit. Aluminum disks work great for pulling competition; but, have some drawbacks when used for less demanding applications. Aluminum on steel has a very high coefficient of friction resulting in a extremely strong clutch; but, you can't hardly slip them...
  7. J

    Archive through February 22, 2006

    G.L.- It is possible to bore most K321 blocks out to a 3.75 inch bore (standard K-341); however, I would NOT recomend doing it. The cylinder walls are paper thin. The engine (even if you use a head strap)may last for a while; but, it will definately not stay together for very long.
  8. J

    Drill press recomendations

    Kendell, I've got the Grizzly version of that mill/drill that I bought when I first got into metal working. I used it until I could afford a larger mill and then used the grizzly mill as a drill press. I haven't got anything bad to say about it. It is a very capable machine. It is not as...
  9. J

    Drill press recomendations

    I hear a lot of discussion on both sides of the chinese vs. used US equipment. Now I'm definately patriotic: 13 years as a officer in the army, don't cheat on my taxes, love cub cadets mom and apple pie american. But here is the reality: 1. Most older american equipment that is in the same price...
  10. J

    Archive through June 19, 2005

    Art - Go to www.frugalmachinist.com then click on the projects link. It doesn't contain a blueprint or detailed plan; but, it has enough information and photos that you could build one similar.
  11. J

    Archive through June 01, 2005

    Terry Bush, Thank You for your reply to my post. I'm ashamed to say it but I forgot about the weight of the bucket and boom when I was doing my force calculations. Good thing I'm a environmental engineer and not mechanical.
  12. J

    Archive through May 28, 2005

    Thanks to all that replied to my questions about the single armed loader. My next question concerns powering the loader. I will be putting the loader on my 149. I've already added a two spool control valve to the hydraulics and am considering using the existing controls with the loader. With 2...
  13. J

    Archive through May 21, 2005

    A while back someone had posted several photos of a single armed loader that they had built. Was this one of the designs from cadplans? If so, do you see any problems with the design or have any recomendations on things you would do different? I'm planning on building a loader this summer and...
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