I'm looking to uprade my shop a little. Can anybody recommend a drill press of reasonably decent quality for under $180. I'm mainly looking at a benchtop model as I don't have the floorspace for anything bigger. I've looked at the Ryobi 12" in person and several others online ( Northern Tool, Harbor Frieght). I'm interested in reviews from those that have used one in this price range. How accurate are the spindle, table, adjusment markings? Are there any problems with customer service as far as getting replacement parts. Am I better off running all over looking at auctions for a used drillpress?
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Drill press recomendations
- Thread starter kmoe
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K
kg
Guest
Kyle:
I've got a 15" Craftsman floor model, but these issues are the same:
1: How solid the movable table mounting is - I have more problems with table deflection when doing heavy drilling (yeah - I know, use sharp bits..) than any thing else.
2: How is the speed changing mechanism set up? Craftsman uses two sets of stepped pulleys, with a pair of thumb screws -one either side- to lock the tension - it sucks...
3: How big are the quill bearings and is there any lateral deflection....
4: On a bench setup, how tall is the whole unit? I note that some of the units actually are too tall when put on a bench - one guy ended up making a lower table to set it on ...hmmm I think he shoulda bought a floor unit.
5: are the major components cast iron or cheese??
6: What is the table like? Is it set up well for direct clamping, a fence or whatever else other than just laying a piece on the table (note that you don't generally just lay pieces on the table, it leaves holes in it, unless you are really good at hitting the clamp down slots).
I see a lot of good reports on the Delta table model. Do a search at Epinions.com. to looka t all the drill press reviews (try this - http://www.epinions.com/search/mem_search_~0/search_vertical_~2522498/no_skip_~1?search_string=drill+presses )it may work...
Let us know how you do..
I've got a 15" Craftsman floor model, but these issues are the same:
1: How solid the movable table mounting is - I have more problems with table deflection when doing heavy drilling (yeah - I know, use sharp bits..) than any thing else.
2: How is the speed changing mechanism set up? Craftsman uses two sets of stepped pulleys, with a pair of thumb screws -one either side- to lock the tension - it sucks...
3: How big are the quill bearings and is there any lateral deflection....
4: On a bench setup, how tall is the whole unit? I note that some of the units actually are too tall when put on a bench - one guy ended up making a lower table to set it on ...hmmm I think he shoulda bought a floor unit.
5: are the major components cast iron or cheese??
6: What is the table like? Is it set up well for direct clamping, a fence or whatever else other than just laying a piece on the table (note that you don't generally just lay pieces on the table, it leaves holes in it, unless you are really good at hitting the clamp down slots).
I see a lot of good reports on the Delta table model. Do a search at Epinions.com. to looka t all the drill press reviews (try this - http://www.epinions.com/search/mem_search_~0/search_vertical_~2522498/no_skip_~1?search_string=drill+presses )it may work...
Let us know how you do..
jharvey
Well-known member
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- displayname
- Jerry Harvey "Nines are wild"
Related question.
Anyone know if these bench drill presses can be used with an electronic speed control that says
"can be used with any universal AC/DC brush type motor" ? I'm not too familiar with this stuff so would rather ask than burn something up. My lowest speed now is 600 RPM and sometimes I would like slower.
Anyone know if these bench drill presses can be used with an electronic speed control that says
"can be used with any universal AC/DC brush type motor" ? I'm not too familiar with this stuff so would rather ask than burn something up. My lowest speed now is 600 RPM and sometimes I would like slower.
K
kg
Guest
Jerry:
I don't think any of the drill presses of that size have universal type motors. A universal motor will have brushes, like most portable drills. Most of the bench and floor standing drill presses have a capacitor start motor, which you can usually identify because:
1: It'll be externally mounted, with a belt drive
2: There will usually be a "bump" on the motor housing that contains the starting capacitor..
I've got an older Craftsman unit (with like a 6 or less inch throat) that has a universal brush type motor, but it actually has an electronic speed control.
I don't think any of the drill presses of that size have universal type motors. A universal motor will have brushes, like most portable drills. Most of the bench and floor standing drill presses have a capacitor start motor, which you can usually identify because:
1: It'll be externally mounted, with a belt drive
2: There will usually be a "bump" on the motor housing that contains the starting capacitor..
I've got an older Craftsman unit (with like a 6 or less inch throat) that has a universal brush type motor, but it actually has an electronic speed control.
KG,
Thanks for the information. I'm going shopping this weekend and will let you know what I decide on. Things were much easier when I worked mantainance and could just walk down to the shop at lunchtime to use whatever machine I needed.
Thanks for the information. I'm going shopping this weekend and will let you know what I decide on. Things were much easier when I worked mantainance and could just walk down to the shop at lunchtime to use whatever machine I needed.
K
kg
Guest
Just went back and read some of the other reviews on Epinons - watch the Delta Shopmaster table model (about 199.00).. it evidently has a flakey speed adjustment setup on it - poor design per some of the reviews.
Anybody using any of the heavier equipment that Harbor Freight sells? I keep looking at the drill/mill they sell. I'd hate to buy Chinese if I could find something USA made even close in price .(usta say that about Taiwanese....) I may just wait till I'm retired and look at auctions.
Anybody using any of the heavier equipment that Harbor Freight sells? I keep looking at the drill/mill they sell. I'd hate to buy Chinese if I could find something USA made even close in price .(usta say that about Taiwanese....) I may just wait till I'm retired and look at auctions.
I hear a lot of discussion on both sides of the chinese vs. used US equipment. Now I'm definately patriotic: 13 years as a officer in the army, don't cheat on my taxes, love cub cadets mom and apple pie american. But here is the reality: 1. Most older american equipment that is in the same price range with equivilant chinese equipment is worn out 2. Older american lathes won't cut metric threads (like it or not metric fasteners are here to stay) 3. Most american equipment is assembled in the US with imported parts. Also, more money stays in the US than you would think on the imported equipment. Most of the iron going into the chinese equipment came from the US. Between the import tarrifs, importers mark-up, distributers mark-up, retailers mark-up and all the taxes paid, most of the money you pay for a chinese piece of equipment is actually staying right here. Is it costing americans jobs? No, because no one would be buying the equipment. The american manufacturers are building industrial equipment. They haven't built equipment intended for the home machinest in 50 years (long before the chinese equipment showed up on the market). The chinese equipment fills a nich that the american companies don't want to compete in. I have both chinese equipment and older american equipment. I absolutely love my logan lathe; but, it has it's faults. Parts are either no longer available or extremely expensive, can't cut metric threads, spent more money getting it into shape than my import lathe cost new, and it's not any more accurate. My recomendation is to buy the chinese equipment first to get your shop set up and then as money is available start upgrading.
K
kg
Guest
Re: Used equipment....
Heard these guys advertising on a Detroit radio station and looked up their website
. If I had the room.... (and a forklift to unload - oh wait, I could buy that from 'em too). I've started looking at some of the other import vendors for one of the bench mounted drill/mills - I like the Grizzley brands. It'll be a while - have to find out how much (if anything) I have left from the barn building project this summer, but I need something for small work - this one
from HF for about $1000 is the size I'm looking at.
Heard these guys advertising on a Detroit radio station and looked up their website
. If I had the room.... (and a forklift to unload - oh wait, I could buy that from 'em too). I've started looking at some of the other import vendors for one of the bench mounted drill/mills - I like the Grizzley brands. It'll be a while - have to find out how much (if anything) I have left from the barn building project this summer, but I need something for small work - this one
from HF for about $1000 is the size I'm looking at.
Well, I went shopping over the past two weekends and have looked at every drill press within 100 miles of here ( which isn't too many ) The Ryobi 12" bench model looks pretty darn good. However it won't go quite as slow as I'd like so I'm going to order the comperable model form Harbor Freight. It has four more speeds ( two on top end and two on bottom end of the range) and according to the users manual the motor develops a true 3/4hp under load. It also has a slightly larger swing. We ended up buying a new range so I won't be getting the drillpress until the next payday. When it arrives I'll play around with it a little and report on my findings.
Kendell,
I've got the Grizzly version of that mill/drill that I bought when I first got into metal working. I used it until I could afford a larger mill and then used the grizzly mill as a drill press. I haven't got anything bad to say about it. It is a very capable machine. It is not as ridgid as a knee mill and chatters a little with endmills >5/8" in steel; but, for $1,000 you can't find anything that will outperform it.
I've got the Grizzly version of that mill/drill that I bought when I first got into metal working. I used it until I could afford a larger mill and then used the grizzly mill as a drill press. I haven't got anything bad to say about it. It is a very capable machine. It is not as ridgid as a knee mill and chatters a little with endmills >5/8" in steel; but, for $1,000 you can't find anything that will outperform it.
I picked up a used Cobra brand bench model the other day for a price I couldn't pass up. It's a larger bench model, it stands slightly over 40" tall 5/8" chuck. I made a mobile cart for it out of some left over plywood siding and 2x4's. It came with a (cheap) set of bits too. Yeah it's a cheap drill press but as I mentioned earlier the price was right.
KRAIG - Your Cobra d/p looks like the Harbor Freight d/p Dad gave Me a couple years ago. Not a bad tool for the price. I had a "Post Drill" that is WAY older than the one old time Blacksmith's shop in the Greenfield Village Museum in Detroit... Maybe I should let Ray Leo know I'd like to get rid of it! I have a small 3/8" chuck, 9" swing Harbor Frieght d/p and frankly, It isn't worth ANYTHING. It will not drill steel with anything larger than a 1/4" bit. In it's fastest of three speeds I can stall the motor by grabbing the chuck with My bare hand. But I broke down a year ago and bought a DELTA 16-1/2" floor standing d/p and It's GREAT. It's not a mill.... but I also didn't pay anywhere near $1000 for it either!
kide
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- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Kraig - those cheap bits (Look like HF Siver and Demmings) may not be as bad as you think. I quit buying name brand (like Craftsman) bits a couple of years ago, after getting a set of the nitrided Chinese bits from TSC. We were at a scooter meet and I needed a set so I could drill a valve stem hole in a stainless wheel half (don't ask - I'm cheap) thinking that'd be it for that set of bits. These days, that set is all I use, I've put the brad point Craftsman stuff in storage. The cheap stuff don't seem to wear out. I'm getting the same results from the HF SIlver and Demmings.
KG, you are correct! Good to hear that they are decent bits.
While I'm posting I may as well post a pic of the mod I made to the drill press. It was very easy to do, ya see there were these two holes below the switch that looked out of place so I decided to fill one. I had been looking around for a flexible light and all I was finding were these ones for $20-$60 which was more then I was willing to pay. Then I found a clip on flexible light from Menard's for $5.97 + tax. I removed the clip and mounted the light onto the drill press. An easy mod and it only took a half hour or so. While I was at Menard's I also picked up a rough service bulb for it.
While I'm posting I may as well post a pic of the mod I made to the drill press. It was very easy to do, ya see there were these two holes below the switch that looked out of place so I decided to fill one. I had been looking around for a flexible light and all I was finding were these ones for $20-$60 which was more then I was willing to pay. Then I found a clip on flexible light from Menard's for $5.97 + tax. I removed the clip and mounted the light onto the drill press. An easy mod and it only took a half hour or so. While I was at Menard's I also picked up a rough service bulb for it.
Kraig,
When that rough service bulb dies, try one of the energy saving screw-in fluorescent ones. Not for the energy savings but for the extended life. My new garage trouble light has been impossible to kill despite being dropped many times.
When that rough service bulb dies, try one of the energy saving screw-in fluorescent ones. Not for the energy savings but for the extended life. My new garage trouble light has been impossible to kill despite being dropped many times.
Jim, I was wondering about those. Menard's has a display of them in the same isle as the rough service bulbs. I was looking at them, <font size="-2">(just before I grabbed the rough service bulb)</font>, and wondered if they would hold up. Thanks for the info.
Our attached garage light stays on 24-7. A normal soft white 60W bulb lasts at most three-four days..... a rough service bulb maybe a week... The fluorescent bulb has lasted something just over two years and counting.
KRAIG - I like Your flexible light. Great idea!
KRAIG - I like Your flexible light. Great idea!
Hugh,
The Compact florescents work better than any rough service bulb I bave used in a drop light. Most of the rough service bulbs don't survive the first drop of more than a couple of feet, you have to actually break the glass on the florescents for them to stop working.
The Compact florescents work better than any rough service bulb I bave used in a drop light. Most of the rough service bulbs don't survive the first drop of more than a couple of feet, you have to actually break the glass on the florescents for them to stop working.
