Tom CHOO CHOO - I don't see any real significant rust on the cab so I'm wondering why you would want to sand blast it. I myself am more partial to just sanding off rust and wire wheeling if necessary. Sand blasting can make the metal brittle, and with the large panels on your cab I have to think if you sand blasted they may crack when in use.
Also, I know it's getting cold up your way but if you've got a temperature controlled area that you could paint in I'd just paint the panels myself after you get them cleaned up and primed. And if it was my cab I'd paint it all with the Case/IH Federal Yellow. CC Specialties stocks it in the rattle cans and quarts. I've been quite successful using the rattle cans in controlled conditions. I painted a complete model 107 once and a professional painter couldn't believe I used rattle cans. The 169 in my profile was painted with rattle cans (and it is the correct yellow. I don't know why the pic makes it look like it's lighter). It also saves you alot of money over having someone do it for you, and the color will match your tractor which I assume you'll eventually want to paint as well.
Now, I still recommend using your tractor and making sure everything is in good working order before you go to painting. I wouldn't think going thru one winter in your area would add that much more rust to the cab or tractor. I'd hate to see you messing up nice fresh paint if you have to tear something apart to fit it. You had mentioned the hydro worked good before, but I still recommend you remove the cab and remove the fenders and get a good look at the trunion and linkage on the hydro, and make sure the slot isn't worn. THere's alot of info on it in the Cub Cadet FAQs. And while you've got the fenders off that's really when you should paint them, and then there are only 4 bolts holding the engine in so you could remove it and paint up the frame. I'd remove the dash and pedestal and paint them but you could do it while it's still on the tractor, although I really don't recommend it. I like to paint the insides so you'd have to remove it. And if you do remove the pedestal then you can make sure the hydro control and hydraulic lift control linkage is all good as well. Before you remove the engine I'd remove and decarbon the head and piston - which Kohler recommends every 500 hours - and whil you have the head off you can get a look at the cylinder and measure it up. Then I'd remove the engine, de-grease clean and paint it up. I'd remove and strip the paint off the carb and install a kit basic needle and seat and gasket kit which is about the best $15 dollars you'll send. And of course I'd install new points.
Maybe you can begin to see why I'd recommend using the tractor, then come spring start tearing things apart to inspect, repair, and then paint before re-assembly. (And get the correct Case/IH 935 White paint from Charlie as well. If you go to a tractor show you'll want your tractor to match the correct color of the others).
