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Steering wheel

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Joined
Aug 26, 2023
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I have an original 1961 cub cadet and I’m trying to takeoff the steering wheel. Can someone tell me does it screw on or after you takeoff the nut does it just come by using a puller?

Thanks.
 

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Rod,I believe the best advice anyone can give you about 50 yr old machines is use penetrating oil (lots) and patience.Remember any part has had ample time to rust in place,smaller bolts break easily as well.It's hard to wait on pen oil to do the job but it's the right thing to do.A few well placed hammer taps usually is helpful.A can torch sometimes is helpful as well..avoid extremes in any case...
 
Rod, DO NOT HIT IT WITH A HAMMER ! ( you will damage the steering box below.

Apply penetrating oil, have a cuppa tea, walk away after more penetrating oil, loosen the retaining nut a few turns, not completely, just 1/8" of slack, then practice this, sit in the seat, (with a block of wood or a brick on each footrest if needed) put your legs under the steering wheel and Gently lift your legs by a heel rise with toes on the footrests bricks so you apply even lifting pressure square to the wheel and line of steering tube travel. You should be able to get 1/4 to 1/2 inch of lift before resistance

If there is no pop the, put a small bolt into the steering tube such that seated on the top of the tube alone, lifting the tube as above method, apply a rubber mallet thump carefully onto a block of wood on top of the bolt, more tea (as above) may be required, I know that patience belong in hospitals but you may need a lot here, so humour yourself and go very very gently.
There are lots of extraction methods described in the FAQ's someone else can direct you to
 
50/50 mix acetone and transmission fluid let work into the rusted joint. You can leave some tension on it with your puller if you want. Patience and then next day take a ball peen hammer and give it a few lite raps tighten up the puller. If after a few attempts this doesn’t work. Get the torch out. Get it real hot around the outside drop cold water into hole.
 
I have an original 1961 cub cadet and I’m trying to takeoff the steering wheel. Can someone tell me does it screw on or after you takeoff the nut does it just come by using a puller?

Thanks.
Same issue with my CC102, vintage 1967. Did everything mentioned here except only had a 2-prong puller. Wanted to change the steering wheel to one that fit my hands better. The flippin' thing would not come off. Resisted pounding with a hammer, fearful of damaging the steering box. My Dad, an accomplished woodworker, would say, 'if you have the right tools you can do anything.' So, used my Fein Multimaster MM500 with Starlock E-cut bi-metal saw blade to cut thru the wheel hub; had to cut in two places to get the wheel off. Really!
I bought a new wheel and jazzed it up with a leather cover. Cool.
Cheers, Jack
 
The air hammer method in the FAQ has always worked for me. I've pulled a dozen or so wheels in different conditions and it's always worked well.
 
I found out years ago the air hammer method with similar tools works good for any steering wheel, no matter how stuck on it is. I have never had to cut up or used heat on a steering wheel just to get it off, yet.
Sounds workable BUT I have no air hammer, related parts and compressor. I had to cut through the wheel hub in two places and the wheel would not come off; made a third cut and still had to hammer/chisel the remaining part of the hub. Then I saw the problem....the hub was conjoined (is that a word) to the steering shaft, seemed welded to the shaft. There was no rust. Then had to grind the shaft so the new wheel would fit.

I know next to nothing about air hammers. Guess they're adjustable as to striking force; for this job the air hammer would have to be set on high. Possible damage to the steering box?
Jack
CC102
 
Sounds workable BUT I have no air hammer, related parts and compressor. I had to cut through the wheel hub in two places and the wheel would not come off; made a third cut and still had to hammer/chisel the remaining part of the hub. Then I saw the problem....the hub was conjoined (is that a word) to the steering shaft, seemed welded to the shaft. There was no rust. Then had to grind the shaft so the new wheel would fit.

I know next to nothing about air hammers. Guess they're adjustable as to striking force; for this job the air hammer would have to be set on high. Possible damage to the steering box?
Jack
CC102
You could have tried hammering by hand using a similar punch shown in the link, it's a little difficult to do it alone or get a friend's help. Remember to pull up firmly on the steering wheel. I have never damaged a steering box that I know of doing it this way.
 
You could have tried hammering by hand using a similar punch shown in the link, it's a little difficult to do it alone or get a friend's help. Remember to pull up firmly on the steering wheel. I have never damaged a steering box that I know of doing it this way.
Sorry JD but 'hammering by hand' was not going to free-up the wheel, evident by what I found after cutting thru the hub three times. All this makes me think there's a score of old tractor owners out there who want to replace the dash decal and gave up 'cause the wheel wouldn't come off.
Cheers, Jack
 

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