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Repowering a 1282

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Rooney

Active member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Nov 2, 2022
Messages
27
Location
Dauphin, Manitoba
My 1282 has a bad vibration, upon inspection I found the balance gears were removed. I set valves and carb with a small amount of improvement. It does run okay and doesn't burn oil but thinking of repowering it as I have a 2160 with a great running briggs vanguard 16hp. I didn't really want to immobilize the 2160 but it is an option. My question is leave it original and add a balancing plate to the crank or just swap the engine out? What is another engine possibility for the 1282?
Screenshot_20221106-182843_Gallery.jpg
 
"Great running Briggs and Stratton" isn't that a contradiction in terms? :unsure:

Sorry, just a throwback to my experiences with the early ones, they were awful.

I picked up a disassembled 14 hp B&S that I would like to see run. Not sure if it is possible due to parts availability. The smaller twin cylinders just aren't available anymore.
 
Thanks for all the information, leaning towards repairing the kohler but if I come across an engine like a Honda I might go that route. Would transplanting a Honda be difficult to swap in?
 
You will have to come up with a PTO, and assuredly the driveshaft will be a different length. You will have to rewire the tractor for magneto style ignition, versus your battery powered coil ignition. Yes, the Honda will be smoother, quieter, and probably more fuel efficient, but it is far from a bolt in plug and play installation.
 
You will have to come up with a PTO, and assuredly the driveshaft will be a different length. You will have to rewire the tractor for magneto style ignition, versus your battery powered coil ignition. Yes, the Honda will be smoother, quieter, and probably more fuel efficient, but it is far from a bolt in plug and play installation.
Thanks for the info, pto would be fairly easy but the drive shaft coupler would be a challenge I think.
 
Kohler Command is a bit easier swap, as the driveshaft will bolt to the flywheel adapter of a CC-spec version.

The entire tractor wouldn't need to be rewired to switch to magneto ignition; just need a relay.

Here is what is involved in putting a Command in one of these: http://mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tractors/1872_ICT/CommandSwapRevA.pdf
Thanks for the link, looks very interesting. You did a fantastic job doing the swap. I especially like the work you put into the heat shields. And you are right about those quick drain plugs, just awful, I've seen a few engines over the years seized up due to them.
 
Kohler Command is a bit easier swap, as the driveshaft will bolt to the flywheel adapter of a CC-spec version.

The entire tractor wouldn't need to be rewired to switch to magneto ignition; just need a relay.

Here is what is involved in putting a Command in one of these: http://mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tractors/1872_ICT/CommandSwapRevA.pdf
Beautiful conversion.

Has anybody tried Lovejoy couplings for driveshaft conversions? Wondering how they worked out. I picked up an Onan that (likely) came out of a Case and it has what looks to be a Lovejoy coupling on the end of the motor.
 
I've had the thought of using those; the size coupler needed for 20+ hp is pretty big, and they start getting expensive. Modifying a used 2000 series driveshaft is much cheaper.
 
It's not as simple as just matching the shaft size.

The one you pictured there is aluminum and appropriate for something like a fractional horsepower electric motor. Steel hubs will be required, and the "spider" is going to be the weak point and will size the rest of it. IIRC something like a 2" diameter coupling is of the required strength for this application.
 
A better idea than a Lovejoy coupling is a Magnalloy coupling, we used them on a real high Horsepower but low RPM application about 3-4 purchasing positions ago. Same concept as a Lovejoy just larger.
Company around Muncie, Indiana called Small Engine Warehouse, they used to build kits to drop new engines into older garden tractors, sounds like they still do that. About 12-15 years ago my tractor show buddy bought a 18 hp Briggs for his #317 Deere, day it was delivered he had the old engine out, 3-4 hours after the box came he started mowing his lawn. And the price was considerably less than he spent rebuilding his KT-17 Kohler about 5 years earlier.
I absolutely would NOT recommend an ONAN engine swap, parts were terribly expensive, my OEM fuel pump was quite a bit over $100, think around $130-$140, new ignition points & condensor, last time I ordered them was $165 including shipping, tax, etc. That Onan is why I mow with a Kawasaki powered zero turn now!
 
My question is leave it original and add a balancing plate

I went this route a couple of years ago with my 1650. At rated RPM it's smooth as with the balance gears and not too bad at low revs. I don't have much else to go on for experience with riding tractors with these large single cylinder thumpers, but overall I consider it a win for an original as I did run it for a year before the change

As it was a complete tear down to install the plate, I made it into a complete overhaul as well to deal with some PO workarounds, particularly the exhaust valve lash adjustment which required a new valve and lifter and a choke rod was missing. I cleaned, inspected, measured everything; and then made up a shopping and task list. It took a month or so to get it all together, but once all the parts arrived, the assembly went like clockwork. I consider the money well spent and Kirk's support helped a lot as well.
 
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