New Airline

[kmcconaughey]

Here are some photos.

This is the compressor, not much but it seems to be up to all I've asked it to do. I'm thinking that a larger diameter section of hose to connect to the the 1/2" pipe may not be needed as there is already a restriction at the regulator connection. Thoughts???

Here's a view of the first section of airline, it's there hidden just under the upper shelf.

Here's the rest of the airline.

Here's the current hose connection to the 1/2" pipe.

This is where I had to go up and over some existing "stuff" so I added a water trap/drain. I think I'm going to add a 90° elbow and 4" nipple to the drain valve so I can hang a bucket to catch the water.

Here is the filter/regulator it's a cheap one I bought at Harbor Freight several years ago. Also in this photo you can see the riser and the dead end drain. When I use the sandblaster I'll disconnect the air reel and run a different hose to the sandblaster.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) . well i would like to add 1 thought on the air line. If you made the line run all around the inside walls of your shop to connect back up to the same line you would find better pressure would be available because of more volume to draw from.on each wall you could have a quick connect for air tools and with a drain for water.I seen a system in a local body shop close to here and they had a company come in and install the system out of alum threaded pipe. works great with little air loss for the shop.Can include pictures and the company has a web site. Can post it if you want. Later Don T

 

[dtanner]

Here is the site for http://www.transair-usa.com/ i will be using there ideas for my shop,but the cost for me to do the shop when its 28 ft x30 ft will be high but worth the effort. later Don T

 

[kide]

Kraig:

Don:
I think that becomes more important when you're drawing lots of air, as in multiple stations, several workers using air all at once.Kraig may be busier that a one arm paper hanger, but as far as I know he's only got two hands and probably won't be using more than one tool at a time.. I'm somewhat familiar with industrial air piping - the drop he may be getting in terms of pressure, he's gaining in the cooling through the longer run of pipe.. But on the other hand, that blue pipe is COOL !!! (And I'll betcha pricey, eh?)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Well I believe my installation is a success! I got the pedestal for the Original sandblasted and primed. There was a little residual water in the hose, (from when the hose was my main airline system), I had to use this hose from the regulator to the sandblaster. Once I had the water cleared out all was well. When I was done sandblasting I drained the air off and the only place water had collected was in the first drain. There was no water in the filter/regulator or in the dead end drain.

The air compressor mostly keeps up with the sandblaster, about 30 seconds after I stop using air for an extended period the compressor cycles off.

Don, thanks for the link, looks like a nice product, but I bet it's way out of my price range.

 

[dtanner]

Kraiq. well you might have missed my point. by make a circle of the air line with drops and drains you will notice the compressor will also run less because of resistance of flow,and you will get a more air where you need it at the tool you are using instead of loss.I`am sure what you have done is (has) been a big help. and a fine job you did. come on over and help do mine lol

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, no, I understood your point. The extra storage volume of a longer pipe run would be nice. I did think about installing a longer run for that reason and to cool the air better and let more moisture condense out. However, my garage layout isn't the best for running pipe around it. I have a very low ceiling and LOTS of stuff in the way, much of it is built in shelving. One reason I had to run the pipe under the upper shelf is there is a large I beam running across the garage to support the house above, it's a tuck under garage. The portion forward of the I beam is floor joists and drywall, rearward towards the garage door it's precast concrete planks which at one point had a patio above it. A previous owner added on and enclosed the patio. You can see the I beam in one of the photos, it's kind of a pain to have there with the already low ceiling but it's also handy for hoisting stuff. Too bad it isn't a few feet higher. The photo that has the I beam in it also shows a hook setup for hoisting stuff with a come-along. If I ever build a real shop I'll install a more elaborate air line BEFORE I put a bunch of stuff in the way.

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Looks great!

<font size="-2">BTW... Nice hose reel...</font>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, thanks! Yes that hose reel makes the installation look professional, thanks for the good deal on it.

I mounted that a year or so ago. It sure makes using the air easy. For sandblasting I disconnect the reel and use a different section of hose.

With the even higher humidity this weekend I did get some moisture into the second water trap and into the filter/regulator so every few minutes I'd just open up the drain valves and blow the water out and very little if any made it to the sandblasters.

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
After looking at your pictures some more, I thought of something...

It may work for you to put a small "up riser" right here (<font color="0000ff">Blue Line</font>) on a "T" with a quick-disconnect nipple on the end of it.

That way you wouldn't have to disconnect your hose-reel to add your extra hose that you drag out for sandblasting. Heck, you could just leave that hose hooked up and hang it on a nail on the wall right there.

Maybe I'm over-thinking it, but I'm always interested in making things easier.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, that'd be more work then removing the quick disconnect from the hose reel and quick connecting the air hose.

I might do something like Don suggested and add a longer run to cool the air more and to gain some storage volume. It'd be a run across the front of the garage and then back again to what I already installed. Basically just a loop, it would add about 30' of run of 1/2" pipe. Not sure yet if I need it but I have been thinking of doing it. I would likely add a drain at the loop and perhaps an air drop.

Here's another change I might make, one more step to keep water out of the air.

 

[kide]

Kraig:
You need a couple of these, one on the bottom of your tank and another on the bottom of your first trap... (The ones I've got will run on anything from 24 volt to 240..) What I like is that they do a "one shot" when the power is applied, you can set the interval on the one on the compressor high enough that it'll only drain once per compressor cycle, you just steal the power for it off the motor power.... You can set the "on" interval on them up to 45 minutes and the shot time up to 10 seconds..

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kendell, any idea about how much those sell for?

Thanks.

 

[kide]

I got mine from a surplus sale.. From looking - I believe around a $125.00 apiece new - I thought they were less than that (sorry)...

I'm still not clear on adding pipe to add capacity - if I add an infinite length, does that mean the compressor will never come on (or that it'll never shut off)?. You will get more cooling from a longer run, but more capacity (compared to the tank, which has several times it's volume compressed into it) ????

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kendell,

I guess I'll take a break every few minutes. I'd mostly add pipe to cool the air and give more time (not much) to condense the moisture out. I agree it wouldn't add much volume compared to the tank but every little bit helps when the tank isn't very large to start (20 gallons). I could calculate how much volume the pipe run would add but I'm too busy for that.

 

[tmarkle]

Just throwing this out for discussion;

Anyone ever thought about polyethelene (sp?) for air lines? It is black, semi-flexible and installs with barbs and clamps. It isn't brittle like pvc.

I have also thought about AL Pex tubing which is supposed to be UV resistant unlike standard Pex.

I realize that black iron helps cool and condense the air but it is such a pain to work with.

Eventually I'll be plumbing my shop (24x50) and I'm considering different possibilities.

 

[kide]

Todd:
I believe that black polyethylene plastic is acceptable (getting hose clamp style fittings to hold might get interesting at 175 PSI), but as you say, doesn't give you any cooling - but, you could cool the air just before the trap with a heat exchanger type cooler - I've seen one that was an older copper pipe type finned condenser from an older car, dunked in a bucket of cold water with the water running (total loss) to cool the air. You can buy commercial air dryers that air a combination of a cooling unit and drainable traps..

Kraig: I'll keep watch for one of theose solenoid valves - I'm sure I can find 'em cheaper..

Oh - I was kidding about the siding..... give us your phone number - we'll remind your wife - maybe we could get Click and Clack to call her on Saturday morning (Cubs aren't their main area of expertise, but they like anything mechanical)