Handy Shop Charts (that you can never find when you need'em)

[kweaver]

Somebody's got to break the ice

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Tap / Drill Size
Tap_Drill.html (14.3 k)</td></tr></table></center>

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Machine Taper Sizes
taper-size.html (10.8 k)</td></tr></table></center>

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Hydraulic Cylinder Tonnage (submited by a forum member in '02 - I forget who by but thanks!)
cylinder-tonnage.txt (0.2 k)</td></tr></table></center>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ken, I was wondering what was taking you so long. Thanks for the charts!

 

[kweaver]

Kraig - I was waiting for you !

Just to prove that an MT2 can be free hand cut (because a machinist here said NO) here's a 1.5" reamer I bought that had a 1.125" straight shank. I had to cut it to fit my drill press and lathe. Perfect taper and has never slipped.

 

[jderstine]

Some good information you've added Kweaver.

As a machinist I'd like like to add a couple of things. When grinding your toolbits, make sure you keep them cool. If you get color into them, you've removed the temper and they will not hold an edge.

In the tap chart, there are listing for metric drill sizes. To convert mm into inches, multiple the metric size by .03937 and that will give you the english equivilent.

6mm X .03937 = .2362

Here's a link to a english & metric equivilent chart including # and letter drill sizes.
http://www.kiva.net/~rjbrown/w5/equivs.html

Jeff

Kweaver,
How did you cut your taper accurately? Taper attachment or did you set the compound on the lathe?


(Message edited by jderstine on November 12, 2004)

 

[kweaver]

Jeff -- free hand means just that doesn't it ?
Taper attachment ? What's that ?? My ol SB doesn't even have a QC gear box on it ! I cranked in the tool with the leadscrew running. To hold the reamer in the chuck without damaging the very sharp flutes I pushed the cutter into a piece of aluminum 1.5" i.d. pipe then chucked it all into the lathe. Before the die hard machinist out there roll their eyes just remember that a rock made the tools that made the tools that made the first lathe ...

The point of not getting your tools "colored" while grinding is a good point (no pun) and it also holds true for grinding welds. Discolored metal from grinding means that there are micro heat cracks and can lead to failure. In grinding a weld it is best to grind across the weld which would leave short cracks across the weld as opposed to making long cracks parallel with the weld which can open up into wider cracks when stressed. I am guilty of bearing down hard grinding when I've had to build up heavy welds but I do go back and then burn in deeper with the next pass to burn out those stress cracks. My stress test welds always withstood the test (but that was 30 years ago).

 

[jderstine]

Here's a link to a taper attachment. ( not everyone may know what they are )
http://www.lathe.com/taper_attach.htm

Since you cut that taper freehand, I must congratulate you. That is not an easy task to accomplish. Also, very good idea to put the reamer in aluminum to protect the cutting edges.

 

[kweaver]

Jeff
I almost bought a LaBlond once just because it had a taper attachment but it was a little to big for my shop. I was affraid it'd be like the radial drill I bought that wouldn't go in under the door oh well , that would just have been more equipment sitting around rusting from nonuse.

Here's a converter program that'll work offline in your browser (at least in Netscape - I never open IE) <center><table border=1><tr><td>

Offline Converter
Conversion2.html (25.8 k)</td></tr></table></center>

 

[dfrisk]

KEN - The little note about the sewing machine springs being hardened & tempered with a milk & water mixture..... How much do You have to adjust the mixture to use Today's 2% milk?

Just kinddin' Ya! guess if you cracked some eggs into the mixture You could make pancakes!

 

[kweaver]

Dennis I think that came from my 1927 Machinist Handbook ... man I need a newer version to keep up with 2% , maybe powdered would be better ...

 

[dfrisk]

KEN - 1927 is still O-K..... Mine's "NEW" Feb. 1984. They haven't changed THAT many laws of Physics in the last 77 years.

 

[kweaver]

Dennis when I need to know something about physics I call Ms Cleo on the physics hotline

The newer versions have so much more info and formulas that I just gotta get one.

Com'on arent you withholding some good info for us ??

 

[dfrisk]

KEN - I could scan & e-mail You all 2512 pages.

 

[jluckey]

I have him covered, Dennis. I have the 26th CD rom version

 

[kweaver]

Dennis if it wouldn't be to much trouble

 

[mmasheris]

Dooing a little milling on some 6061 look what it turned out to be

 

[digger]

Mike M.
Cool! That thing looks pretty sharp, I knew you were good for somethin!

 

[kweaver]

 

[kweaver]

I found these I had put on a disk 4 years ago

 

[kweaver]

I had forgot about posting this before until Tom asked about it. Here's my first try at it , I've done a few things since but never took any more pics.

I tried the before mentioned link and rust removal today .... let the pics speak !
Looks like it leaves a black oxide finish , which I bought 5 gallons of a couple years ago. I used hot water and Cascade.

I first found the info on the net back in '97 but had forgot it until I ran across it on a saved disc. The updated link is the one posted on the forum Link to rust removal page

 

[kweaver]

... and if anyone wants to see me doing a cast iron pour using a propane blast furnace here is a link for an mpeg hosted on Doug Jaskson's site. You need a high speed connection to download it (I can't get it all!) Doug had a few problems that I've talked over with him and he was kind enough to add my vid clip to his page. He's gotten into casting way deeper than I've needed to as of yet.

Doug's Foundry Page look for this link

be sure to check out his other pages for some neat stuff as he's building a submarine !!