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Geared Trans, Clutching

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I'm the wrong guy to ask about grinding gears, but I've found over time just about every gear drive unit I've had is a little different, some really touchy. You have to figure out how best to shift it so the gears don't grind. Some require a hard push/pull on the gear shift lever, some want an easy pull all the way to the gear you're selecting. No question tho the tractor has to be completely stopped to avoid even a little bit of crunching. So, overall it might just be you figuring out your specific tractor.
The 'hard push/pull' is a good tip. Will use when adjusting the release rod.
Cheers, Jack
Maybe this will help.

Scan_20220906 (3).jpg clutch.jpg

Scan_20220906 (4).jpg c & brake.jpg
Interesting conversation, I have a 108 depending on it's mood shifting is always an issue, pretty tough keeping all componets adjusted and operating free with no binds. I just remember it's a non synchronized transmission and expect to shift accordingly.
Any trans I've had apart gear teeth were pretty rounded suspect years of grinding was to blame.😕 Good luck with your project.
LARRY ELDER - The sliding gears that engage other gears in ALL IH tractors get the edges that start engagement "Rounded" on a Hurth Gear Rounder. I was in Production Control for 2-3 years at IH's FARMALL PLANT, Cub Cadet gears were made at IH Louisville but they had the gear rounders too. If the flat edges of the gears tried to engage it would almost be impossible to get fully engaged in any gear. If the transmission was forced into gear or was tried to be "ground into gear" the rounding would be a rough surface with variable radius, the rounding cutters gave each tooth a nice even arc to the surface.
If a shop did a clutch replacement job on a gear drive Cub Cadet I would certainly hope they more than just the friction disk. Removing the 4 engine mount bolts and sliding the engine as far forward as possible allows the whole clutch and driveshaft to be removed from below the tractor. The rear coupler where the driveshaft joints the input gear in the reduction housing, the roll pins wear the back hole of the driveshaft terribly oversize and oblong. Two roll pins and two driveshaft holes are actually needed. Midwest SuperCub makes a pre-hardened 4140 driveshaft that supposedly lasts several times longer than the stock driveshaft did. I won't be able to acknowledge that positively or negatively, I'll be pushing up Daisy's by the time my 4140 driveshaft has as many hours as my factory original driveshaft in my 72 had. I tried to use a bunch of pulling tractor parts in my 72 when I put my hot-rodded 14 hp engine in, a stock clutch works just fine.
As soon as the rain quits. I will turn it right to tighten but only a 1/4 turn at a time, then test.
Okeydoke. Sorry the slow response and a special thankyou to David, Jim, Marty, Harry and all the ships at sea. Before any adjustment, with the pedal relaxed the free movement is 1/4 inch. In Blue Ribbon, pg 2-15 free movement is 3/16" and in another manual it is 5/16" so I left it at 1/4 inch.
I turned the clutch release rod nut less than 1/2 turn right. With pedal relaxed or depressed the clutch throwout bearing turns easily. I did not try to spin the bearing before adjusting the nut. Maybe should have.

I had reported gear crunching when shifting, engine running, into 1st or 2nd. I had always tried to ease into gear but yesterday used a hard push/pull
with success - goes right into gear. Will need driving some more before being sure all is well.

Thanks again, youse guys are really helpful.
Cheers, Jack
More seat time! Good plan.

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