-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Clutch press
- Thread starter jhoeksema
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Joe-
Matt G. has a website and a tool he designed just for the clutch. Check out the tool section and you'll find it. You can even compress the spring and work on the clutch while still in the tractor.
http://mgonitzke.net16.net/
If this link doesn't work someone will help ya or you can click on it from any of his posts.
Matt G. has a website and a tool he designed just for the clutch. Check out the tool section and you'll find it. You can even compress the spring and work on the clutch while still in the tractor.
http://mgonitzke.net16.net/
If this link doesn't work someone will help ya or you can click on it from any of his posts.
Joe-
I am pretty sure that was what Matt had in mind when he designed it. It should work on the stronger clutch spring (red?) as well. If you decide to make one you don't want to use thin walled square tubing; the walls on mine are 3/32" I think. The first one I made I used the thin stuff and just didn't like it when the spring was under pressure. I feel a lot better with the beefier steel. I also used 3/4" threaded rod because I had it here already. It fits nicely in 1" steel pipe which matches the width of the square tubing. I think Matts design called for 5/8" rod. Either one works fine.
I am pretty sure that was what Matt had in mind when he designed it. It should work on the stronger clutch spring (red?) as well. If you decide to make one you don't want to use thin walled square tubing; the walls on mine are 3/32" I think. The first one I made I used the thin stuff and just didn't like it when the spring was under pressure. I feel a lot better with the beefier steel. I also used 3/4" threaded rod because I had it here already. It fits nicely in 1" steel pipe which matches the width of the square tubing. I think Matts design called for 5/8" rod. Either one works fine.
Joe-
Did you go to Matts page? When there go to downloads to get the specs of the compressor. I see where he uses 1/8" wall tubing which is one size thicker than mine. The slot that goes over the driveshaft is elongated to allow pasage of the roll pin. I think I remember making my square tubes a tad longer so the pin has more than enough room to be driven out.
Make sense?...It works just fine.
When you get that far I'd go back with new coiled roll pins. I've seen ones that look good but found tiny cracks and it's not that costly.
Did you go to Matts page? When there go to downloads to get the specs of the compressor. I see where he uses 1/8" wall tubing which is one size thicker than mine. The slot that goes over the driveshaft is elongated to allow pasage of the roll pin. I think I remember making my square tubes a tad longer so the pin has more than enough room to be driven out.
Make sense?...It works just fine.
When you get that far I'd go back with new coiled roll pins. I've seen ones that look good but found tiny cracks and it's not that costly.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I'd lose that rear spirol pin and use a split locking collar instead. Then you don't have to worry about it anyway. There's probably no reason a slot couldn't be added there, but I replace that spirol pin with a locking collar on all of my clutches so that they are adjustable.
Direct link to plans on my website
Direct link to plans on my website
