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Well, I'm not really sure what we have here. The regulator cover looks like something reasonable...but the car wheel assy...was it that shiney when it came out of the factory ! ??
Thats a bit of a push for me.
Who knows, maybe it does work to some extent...gotta wait and see who orders/tries some.
 
I tried that stuff, it works, but is expensive... It is also sticky, and I'd bet it is molasses... Their website is www.safestrustremoval.com

It's easier and cheaper, IMHO, to use electrolysis... There is a thread for this in the machine shop...
 
Here is that stuff being sprayed on cub parts...
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If you look closely, the parts in the bottom are clean..
 
I'm sorry but its a wire bruxh and solvent for me. The picture of the rear end reminds me of what my father told me aobut Playboy models when I was a teenager, "Son, those pictures are not like real women, they're touched up to remove all blemishes."

After growing up and viewing women who are not "touched up" I have to admit he had a point. I don't know about molasses, but chocolate syrup works for me.
smile.gif
 
I'm a big fan of mild acid neutralizing (ie Naval Jelly-phosphoric acid plus other ingredients, KrudKutter Rust-phosphoric acid only) stuff. Heard that Citric Acid/Lemon Juice will do the same but takes longer.

Apply the stuff to wire brushed and rinsed surface, wait a bit, a good soft brush scrub & rinse, let dry and you get bare metal and some black/gray areas.

Protect with primer and paint or wax/oil for bare metal look. This & PB Blaster protects and maintains my tools.

I've heard it works on aluminum too but never tried it on that.
 
I'm with you, Tom. First is putty knife & wire brush, then Naval Jelly. Been using it for years. A good rust inhibiting primer, then paint. Might try that KrudKutter next time though.
 
8oz squeeze bottle just over $3 at WalyWorld's paint dept. KrudKutter's A Must For Rust. If your hands are tender use gloves.
 

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