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Archive through October 20, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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sblunier

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
4,826
displayname
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
...It's raining in Central IL........
 
SB -

Ya better change your sig before more nitpickers get their undies in a bunch...
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Joe W.
$500 for a complete rebuilding jos is cheap, round here its $600 just to have one bored out at the local machine shop.
 
Eric: Please get the Chassis Service Manual, Operators Manual, and Parts Manual for your 1650.

Those manuals are a must!! (And I would suggest you get them BEFORE you attempt the ISO mount replacement...or any other service work for that matter!)

The operators manual shows you the correct way to operate the tractor, and the service manual shows you how to service and adjust the tractor, tolerances, procedures, etc. The parts manual shows 'exploded views' of parts assemblies, as well as individual parts, and the part number for each and every part/piece/bolt etc. used on/in the machine. The parts manual also helps to 'fill in the blanks' when you are working on your tractor.

Here is a picture of the old lower ISO mounts that I removed from my 1250....they are worn out/junk!
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And this is a closer picture of one of them
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Sorry, I don't have a picture of a new ISO mount to show you the difference.

It is possible to work on a Cub Cadet without a manual, however, for a 'newbie' it can be challenging. Also with the manuals you can use proper procedures and do proper adjustments...no more 'guessing and BSing'

Like Brian said, replace the snubbers, and I would also seriously suggest doing the Rail Mod as outlined/described by Richard C. You can also find the rail mod in the FAQ's.
 
Since we aren't plowing, I finished up the details on a Halloween costume for Steven III.....that's 70' of 1/2" PVC and 40-some tees!

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Here's my solution for some badly worn spindles on my OCC #4861.

First, I turned down the old spindle on the lathe.
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Then I made a new spindle to slip over the old stub.
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Then I welded the pieces together. This is the first pass.

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After two welding passes I ground the weld down and had like-new spindles.

I've already rebuilt the steering gear. The next thing is to get new wheel bushings and tie rod ends, and I should have steering as tight as when new.
 
Sorry about that -Bryan- suggested replacing the snubbers...not 'Brian'
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Charlie: 'MOOSHIE' pretty much describes them...LOL

The new ISO mount rubbers, and the rail mod worked their magic once again.

While I had the engine out I pulled the head for an ispection/de-carbon session..installed a new head gasket, and set the timing using my Fluke meter (audible continuity). Recently I rebuilt the carb and installed a throttle shaft bushing, and I also set the valves (the intake was out of spec) After some minor fine tuning on the carb, the 1250 runs great, and is smooth as silk!!
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Quietlines Rule
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Ok,so I opened up the generator casing to expose the motor inside. I think the reason the pully on the outside is not turning is because there is sludge and all sorts of crap built up between the axle that goes for the motor to the pully, and the cast iron casing on the front of the casing. How do I disconnect the motor from the front of the casing. The pully looks like its press fitted, I think??????
 
It looks like Ryan will get the mower for me at Plow Day. Thanks Ryan!
I just wish I could go. Have fun and be safe!
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Awsome halloween costume Steve, and thanks again Ken for the excellent price on the hitch. Glen
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Has anyone any experience removing the PTO from a k series when the setscrews are badly damaged? See previous post.
 
Steve,

Kewl costume!!!
Bummer on the rain out.
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Just maybe I can make it for the "rain day" for saying hey to everyone.

Mike M,
Great idea for fixing up tired spindles!!
 
Robert F., After the nut on the end of the starter/gen shaft is removed, the pulley is just a press fit on the shaft with a key way in the shaft. It is probably rusted to the shaft so a gear puller may be required to get it to budge.
 
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