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Archive through November 30, 2009
- Thread starter bjrainey
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Brad,
A search on spring assist in the vault returns
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/31577.html#POST50319
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/24944.html#POST42189
about 2/3's way down...
A search on spring assist in the vault returns
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/31577.html#POST50319
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/24944.html#POST42189
about 2/3's way down...
Well I finally got to test out the 129 pushing dirt since I weighted the tires and put chains on. I filled it with RV antifreeze an measured 50# extra per tire (not counting the chains) and then put the chains on right this year - had to cut quite a bit off to get them to fit good - 3 of the cross bar pieces. They aerent tight but they arent loose enough to move around either. With this setup I was starting to move some dirt, but still only a very little. I think the main problem was there is just too much distance between stops on the hieght... One position was going from barely touching the surface to being an inch or two above, and the next position down was just too deep. I also seem to have week retainer springs or something on the release handle. After a couple hard whacks hitting some solid dirt the plow kept coming of the front of the tractor. After remounting that thing twice I called it a day on the third time.
On a side note I am wishing I had bought a larger tractor, I probably could have saved the cost difference in doing some or most of the ground prep for the barn I'm building. Does anyone happen to know do the "low boy's" like the 184 accept category 1 equipment? The cat0 stuff is just too hard to come by. I'd love to stay with the internationals if I can and I have always loved the looks of the ol red 184s but there are tons of 8N, 9N, 600 etc fords around that are awfully tempting.
On a side note I am wishing I had bought a larger tractor, I probably could have saved the cost difference in doing some or most of the ground prep for the barn I'm building. Does anyone happen to know do the "low boy's" like the 184 accept category 1 equipment? The cat0 stuff is just too hard to come by. I'd love to stay with the internationals if I can and I have always loved the looks of the ol red 184s but there are tons of 8N, 9N, 600 etc fords around that are awfully tempting.
Tristan S,
I would think you would want a bigger tractor than a 154. I had one with a 60" deck on it, and if the grass got very high (6") the tractor would bog down and almost die. Some 3 point stuff would work such as a rear blade, but the PTO shaft is smaller and turns the other way than most PTO driven stuff runs. I found that out when I bought a sprayer to run in my orchard.
They made an adapter\reverser but if you think Cat (0) stuff is hard to come by, hold on to your hat! I would think that a front blade for a 154-185 would be scarce also. I think my 154 Loboy was only rated at 14hp. If I remember correctly, the 184\185 series were rated at 20hp.
This is the reason I sold the Loboy and kept the 1450. Same hp but in a smaller tractor, and I found more implements at cheaper prices for the 1450.
Just my experience, but maybe others had better luck with the 154\184 series.
Brad
I would think you would want a bigger tractor than a 154. I had one with a 60" deck on it, and if the grass got very high (6") the tractor would bog down and almost die. Some 3 point stuff would work such as a rear blade, but the PTO shaft is smaller and turns the other way than most PTO driven stuff runs. I found that out when I bought a sprayer to run in my orchard.
They made an adapter\reverser but if you think Cat (0) stuff is hard to come by, hold on to your hat! I would think that a front blade for a 154-185 would be scarce also. I think my 154 Loboy was only rated at 14hp. If I remember correctly, the 184\185 series were rated at 20hp.
This is the reason I sold the Loboy and kept the 1450. Same hp but in a smaller tractor, and I found more implements at cheaper prices for the 1450.
Just my experience, but maybe others had better luck with the 154\184 series.
Brad
Tristan,
Do you lose tire traction or engine HP first when pushing dirt ?
You can reduce the distance between lift stop points by drilling another hole(s) in the rock shaft lift arm.
With the tractor setup on a flat surface, place some boards under the front tires. The height of these boards should be equal to the desired cutting depth of the push blade, ¾” to 1” is a good start. Remove the lift rod from the rock shaft lift arm and allow the blade to rest on the flat surface. You can now use the lift rod to mark the location of the new lift hole(s) in the lift arm, you may need to move/lock the lift handle desired lock position. The new holes will give you less total lift height of the blade of the ground, but will reduce the height change from one lock point to another.
I hope this helps.
jim
Do you lose tire traction or engine HP first when pushing dirt ?
You can reduce the distance between lift stop points by drilling another hole(s) in the rock shaft lift arm.
With the tractor setup on a flat surface, place some boards under the front tires. The height of these boards should be equal to the desired cutting depth of the push blade, ¾” to 1” is a good start. Remove the lift rod from the rock shaft lift arm and allow the blade to rest on the flat surface. You can now use the lift rod to mark the location of the new lift hole(s) in the lift arm, you may need to move/lock the lift handle desired lock position. The new holes will give you less total lift height of the blade of the ground, but will reduce the height change from one lock point to another.
I hope this helps.
jim
STEVE B. - I like that prototype combine/planter. Looks like if the unloading suger was a foot or two longer You could refill the planter "on-the-go"
TRISTAN S. - Dad had a CC 154 LoBoy. while it's bigger & heavier than a Cub Cadet I really have to agree with Brad it's probably not big enough to be a serious dirt mover. Dad got a frt blade with his and never mounted it. His sold at his auction really dirt cheap, tractor, 72" mower & frt blade for a bit less than $1400, and He spent $400 rebuilding the mower PTO clutch 2 months before it sold. It was WAY under the market but it was rough looking. A little Ford w/loader used to be around $2500 to $3000 for a running unit.
For what most little old Ford 2,8,&9N's bring You can buy a good FARMALL M & loader which REALLY will move dirt. Typically a 300, 350, or 460 Utility with a decent loader is about the same money as a Ford and 2 to 3 times the tractor.
I don't have anything against the little Ford's, just for the same money You can buy more capability.
TRISTAN S. - Dad had a CC 154 LoBoy. while it's bigger & heavier than a Cub Cadet I really have to agree with Brad it's probably not big enough to be a serious dirt mover. Dad got a frt blade with his and never mounted it. His sold at his auction really dirt cheap, tractor, 72" mower & frt blade for a bit less than $1400, and He spent $400 rebuilding the mower PTO clutch 2 months before it sold. It was WAY under the market but it was rough looking. A little Ford w/loader used to be around $2500 to $3000 for a running unit.
For what most little old Ford 2,8,&9N's bring You can buy a good FARMALL M & loader which REALLY will move dirt. Typically a 300, 350, or 460 Utility with a decent loader is about the same money as a Ford and 2 to 3 times the tractor.
I don't have anything against the little Ford's, just for the same money You can buy more capability.
Hi folks:
Got a question I haven't seen on here, even after looking around at the archives.
Can the IH 582, with the 3 speed gear drive, go slow enough for rototilling and similar
ground engaging chores?
Also, the 582 has a manual lift. . . will the standard IH 3 pt sleeve hitch work with this lift?
Thanks,
Jeff in Ithaca
Got a question I haven't seen on here, even after looking around at the archives.
Can the IH 582, with the 3 speed gear drive, go slow enough for rototilling and similar
ground engaging chores?
Also, the 582 has a manual lift. . . will the standard IH 3 pt sleeve hitch work with this lift?
Thanks,
Jeff in Ithaca
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Tristan:
Unless you've converted it or it has the optional factory power lift, you're using a manual lift on the 129 - right? Jim's solution is more for a 149 or '69 with power lift..
If so, you should be locking OUT the lift height locking with the funky little button in the grip of the lift handle and letting the "snail" stop set your maximum drop. Trying to lock a grader blade at a set height, rather than letting it float is pretty much a challenge with a smaller tractor. You say that lockout button's gone (I could never keep the one in on my 129)? I took the lift sector out and filled all of the stop points in with brass (brazing rod) except for the one for locking the lift all the way up. I then set drop height with the snail. I never have missed the intermediate drop lock points - I guess if you were moving from tall grass to short and varying your deck height all the time, it would be beneficial, but everthing I've ever needed was all the way up or dropped and floating..
Unless you've converted it or it has the optional factory power lift, you're using a manual lift on the 129 - right? Jim's solution is more for a 149 or '69 with power lift..
If so, you should be locking OUT the lift height locking with the funky little button in the grip of the lift handle and letting the "snail" stop set your maximum drop. Trying to lock a grader blade at a set height, rather than letting it float is pretty much a challenge with a smaller tractor. You say that lockout button's gone (I could never keep the one in on my 129)? I took the lift sector out and filled all of the stop points in with brass (brazing rod) except for the one for locking the lift all the way up. I then set drop height with the snail. I never have missed the intermediate drop lock points - I guess if you were moving from tall grass to short and varying your deck height all the time, it would be beneficial, but everthing I've ever needed was all the way up or dropped and floating..
stanner
Well-known member
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- Oct 2, 2002
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Welcome Jeff...
I'm from Syracuse,
Scott Stanton is from Corning,
Brendan Bingham is from Whitney Point, plus a few others...
I think a 582 has a granny gear 1st, If I am wrong the cub guru's here will
so, it should work ok
I'm from Syracuse,
Scott Stanton is from Corning,
Brendan Bingham is from Whitney Point, plus a few others...
I think a 582 has a granny gear 1st, If I am wrong the cub guru's here will
so, it should work ok
Tristan,
Sorry I wasn't thinking about your lift, Kendell is right, I was thinkng more of what I did on the manual lift on my 127, which has a lift handle with a clamped on bracket. I assumed you 129 was the same, but I see in the manual it has a casting with just room for one hole.
You could make a lift rod that is adjustable and this would give greater height adjustment.
My 149 attachment springs are weak or missing, I used a small spring to hold up the QA release bar. I run weak 3" spring from the bar up to the top of the metal plate just below the bottom of the front grill casting.
Sorry I wasn't thinking about your lift, Kendell is right, I was thinkng more of what I did on the manual lift on my 127, which has a lift handle with a clamped on bracket. I assumed you 129 was the same, but I see in the manual it has a casting with just room for one hole.
You could make a lift rod that is adjustable and this would give greater height adjustment.
My 149 attachment springs are weak or missing, I used a small spring to hold up the QA release bar. I run weak 3" spring from the bar up to the top of the metal plate just below the bottom of the front grill casting.
msmucker
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- marcus smucker
Hello everyone! I am in the process of getting a 1650 back up and running after I "saved it" from neglectful previous owner. I have the K341 motor out of it and I am getting ready to go through it and make sure everything's OK before re-installing it. I seem to remember reading something about people removing the counter-weight on the crankshaft to prevent it from coming apart and ruining the motor a long time ago, but I couldn't find anything on it when I searched the forums. I could be mistaken and I may have read it in refrence to another motor, but its been a while and I am new to the 50 series so any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.
-Thanks
-Thanks
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Matt,
http://www.ccmanuals.info/pdf/QA36a42aoperators.pdf
Marcus,
look back at the last few days' topics, as it had been the topic of the day...
do a search in the vault for both the words 'balance' and 'gear' and you'll find gobs of info
http://www.ccmanuals.info/pdf/QA36a42aoperators.pdf
Marcus,
look back at the last few days' topics, as it had been the topic of the day...
do a search in the vault for both the words 'balance' and 'gear' and you'll find gobs of info
afoes
Active member
Jeff,
I have a 582, but mine has a creeper gear which provides a(HIGH/LOW range). This basically gives 6 forward speeds and 2 reverse. When the creeper is engaged all of the speeds, 1st low, 2nd low and 3rd low are less than 1st High. We don't have that much snow here in Hickory, NC so I can't speak for snow blowing, but I have been very satisified with rototilling and plowing with this setup.
Arvin Foes
I have a 582, but mine has a creeper gear which provides a(HIGH/LOW range). This basically gives 6 forward speeds and 2 reverse. When the creeper is engaged all of the speeds, 1st low, 2nd low and 3rd low are less than 1st High. We don't have that much snow here in Hickory, NC so I can't speak for snow blowing, but I have been very satisified with rototilling and plowing with this setup.
Arvin Foes
I have removed the tower/dash from my 149 and I want to go through everything as best I can. I have the hydraulic valve out and want to make sure it is in good shape before it goes back in. Are these valve bodies hard to rebuild and are there kits? It does not appear to have been leaking but it has never been gone over according to the factory paint
Any response will be appreciated.
Any response will be appreciated.
marcus smucker
removing the counter-weight on the crankshaft to prevent it from coming apart and ruining the motor a long time ago
Well no the balance gears have to go.When you take the bottom off all you want to see when you put it back on is Governor gear, crank and rod.cam. those other counter weights should be removed... my .02 later Don T
removing the counter-weight on the crankshaft to prevent it from coming apart and ruining the motor a long time ago
Well no the balance gears have to go.When you take the bottom off all you want to see when you put it back on is Governor gear, crank and rod.cam. those other counter weights should be removed... my .02 later Don T
Scott thanks for the link to the manual. Thats a different model but looks like the same type of hook up. That must just be they way they are. My top support arms have a bend in them but I have tried them both ways. Humm.
