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Archive through November 07, 2005

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Kraig,
Your welcome.
I was gonna take the tires off, but I figured you needed the exercise!
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We just got back from the cities AND stopped by Northern Tool along the way. Man! that place has gone to HEdoubleL!!!
I had a box waiting for me today too!
Cool little set of Power Tracs.
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Dave G.
I recently had a conversation with someone who had problems with a Mercury outboard. He contacted the dealer and was told that the gas is only good for 10 days!!! I don't know if the refining process has changed because of shortages/weather... or if it is bunk? I use MMO or stabil.
 
On the MMO issue I have used it for years and agree it works wonders. I fixed an inboard chevy engine in my boat with it one time. I have never had a sticking valve in any of my Cubs and they work in some very hot temperatures.

That said I believe it is a lubricant, and probably some type of cleaner but I have done a lot of Google searches and can not find anywhere they say it is a gas stabilizer.
 
Richard,
I dunno if it's a stabilizer or not, but I put the gas in my house generator 5 years with MMO in it and I just did the annual fall fire up/check up 3 weeks ago and the gas smells fine and it fires right up with the push of a button. Works for me.
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10 days???? What brand of gas are you guys using? We use shell in everything, the zero turn and 1810 sit all winter with gas in them and no stabilizer or MMO and start just fine after 4 months or so. It seems to take about a year for it to get unuseable.
 
Larry,

I would try to remove as much rust off the rock shaft and around collars, as it will build up as you try to drive the shaft out toward the right side of tractor. Ideally you want to have the rock shaft as cold as possible and the lift arm collers hot. The difference in temp between the shaft and collars will create the greatest amount of gap "slip fit" between the two. Try a very cold wet (ice water) rags/towels wrapped around the shaft and only apply heat to the lift arms/collars. Any rotational movement between the shaft and collars will help loosen the rust. Try to lock the position of the lift arms, than while driving the shaft rotate at the same time. This may take two people. Becareful not to damage the end of the rock shaft as it will not pass through the collars, if rounded over. If you have an air chisel, the vibration from it will help. Navel Jelly (acid found in auto/hardware stores) helps dissolve rust. Keep at it, rust will let go sooner or later.

jim
 
This topic may not be about Cubs but it concerns the Forum so I thought I would pass it on. I just had to replace the hard drive on my computer and when I reloaded all of the software I downloaded the new free Google tool bar. I have always used it on my IE browser for quick searches and before Windows came with the pop up blocker, I used it to prevent pop ups.

I was surprised the new toolbar has a spell check of text you type on any Webb form.

I tried it tonight when I posted on this Forum. It worked just like they said, highlighted my spelling errors and when you put your arrow over the highlighted word and click it gives you several words to choose from, just click on the one you want and it is inserted. Hopefully you select the correct one.

Maybe others have tried it, or have a different way to check the spelling, or maybe some don't make any spelling errors like I do. Just thought I would pass this on.
 
Richard C,
I usually just write my message in my email, use the spell check there, then cut and paste into the forum message posting box.
 
Matt- I will check out the condition of the input shaft when I replace the seal which will be in next week. Hopefully the seal will stop the leak!

While I have the clutch out I noticed the clutch driver is banged up pretty bad. Should I replace it with a OEM or upgrade the entire assembly like the pulling tractors? This is a 1200 that is used for everything from mowing to hauling wood.
 
Here are two more of the first CC redesign pics. The grill is one of a series where lights were getting fit into it and the pedestal is close to the final version

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JIM:
Thanks for the reply/suggestions, have tried all nothing moving, I think I will try ammonia, Just have to clean off the oil somehow, an old mechanic friend advise me to use around head studs on flathead Fords to get the heads off and it worked then. I guess by the time you have tried everything it’s the last thing that always works.
Just a note the old timer suggested soaking rusty parts in molasses, at the time I soaked the heads for the flathead that were badly rusted a week and washed them off with a brush, they looked like new castings. I got the molasses at our feed store, that was in 1953 maybe can’t get it there now.
 
Anybody- While I have the clutch out I noticed the clutch driver is banged up pretty bad. Should I replace it with a OEM or upgrade the entire assembly like the pulling tractors? This is a 1200 that is used for everything from mowing to hauling wood. Any suggestion?
 
Larry
I used a long strip of cloth sand paper like a shoe buffer to remove all of the paint down to the metal to get mine to budge. They have a pretty close tolerance and that old yeller paint is thick.
 
Talkin about gettin something to budge, got any tips for removing a stuck fly wheel from a K301. Wheel puller ain't gettin it done.
Thanks, Tim
 

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