Archive through November 01, 2018

[balbrecht]

Kraig M,
The 127 in my profile is still at it's original home with my dad out in NY. I picked that one up almost 15 years ago, doesn't seem like it's been that long ago already. The off topic tire is your off topic machine on a few years of steroids, an off topic Friday kind of machine.

 

[hydroharry]

Larry - looks like you're close to being ready to put it back together.

Steve - I suppose Don could give it a try rebuilding it with the kit. He'd have to make sure everything is cleaned up really good. I'd be worried about the 3 little springs possibly loosing their tension. They are not part of the kit. He would get a new fiber disk.

Now, you didn't comment on the bearing. I don't think that's melted fiber from the button on the bottom half of the basket pulley. I'm nearly positive it's grease and I don't think it would come from any other place beside the bearing. I'd still want to replace that bearing.

Kraig - that's a great question and I'm anxious to hear what Don says. Pulling back on the lever hard enough would place that spring against the crankshaft and cause the PTO to turn slightly, at least for awhile.

Don - to restate what Kraig is saying in other words:
Pulling back on the lever dis-engages the PTO, meaning the belt is released and blades won't turn. In this position the fiber or bronze button will be slightly pressed against the steel center button which depresses the main spring and releases the PTO clutch pressure plates.
Pushing or releasing the lever into the forward position separates the fiber or bronze button from the center steel button (usually there is about .020 gap). This results in the PTO engaging and rotating at crankshaft speeds, resulting in the belt turning along with the blades.

Is this what you were expecting and experiencing? Of did you think the PTO engaged and blades turned when you pulled back on the lever?

 

[dmcphee]

Harry - Yes, I tightened the turnbuckle too much thinking it needed to be firmer when I realeased it (pushed it forward). The PTO engages/mower works when pushing lever forward. Pulling back on lever stops the PTO/mower. I must have tightened it so much that when I pulled back on it, it rubbed into the spring?

I’ll order an extra bearing to go with the rebuild kit just to be safe. I’m currently cleaning all the other parts which look to be ok. Charlie doesn’t send any orders out until Nov 9th as per website.

I did spray a bunch of liquid wrench and penetrating oil inside the basket and PTO before taking set screws out and ran it a few times. Maybe that accounts for some of the color.

Appreciate your input on this. I would never have thought to replace the bearing but might as well while I’m in there.

 

[sblunier]

If the bearing has age on it and you are in there, replace it.

If it's fairly new, I'd run it....

 

[hydroharry]

Don - didn't think about you spraying liquid wrench into the PTO but that would account for what appears to be in the basket pulley in the pic. The rebuild kit should be a reasonable solution instead of the replacement PTO. Replacing the bearing is really your call. Steve makes a good point that if it's old and you're in there probably better to replace it.

Steve and Kraig - well, I was probably wrong again. It's nice to be able to say that and that you guys were likely right.

 

[wshytle]

Don-

I can't remember if you talked about this but did you resurface both pressure plates? Another thing I do is chase the threads in the 3 set screw holes with a 1/4-20 tap. While it's apart is also a good time to put some fresh paint on it...but not on the resurfaced surface. Don't get any paint on the inside where the bearing goes either. It will just be harder to deal with in the future. I always put a fine coat of grease there to deter rust.

The reason I am saying this is because once rebuilt and adjusted properly these mechanical ptos can last 20 years before needing attention. They may seem a little intimidating at first but they are really simple and easy to make right. The fiber button will also last when properly adjusted but be gone in a flash if not. I've never used a brass/bronze button so I just don't know about them. I've heard a lot of good things about them though. Charlie sells everything you will need to get it back in top condition so, like Hydro said, there's no reason to buy a replacement pto.

.

 

[dmcphee]

Wayne - Thanks. I was planning on painting the pulley wheel IH white and maybe the three throw out clips. I'll coat the shaft with no seize gunk so it comes off easier for the next guy. Appreciate the input on the holes. Great idea.

And thanks to the other guys who helped me on this issue. Great advice. Even you Harry!!!

 

[jstorma]

One nice paint job there Steve! Love the tractor. Thanks for the info.

 

[lbury]

HI, I am putting a kwik way loader on my 125. I put the rear bracket on the frame of the tractor but it won`t clear the hydraulic filter, is there somewhere I can find a shorter filter, I only need about 2 inches. Also loader did not come with a hydraulic pump, so I could use some input there. There is a kwik way tag on the rh upright, but no serial number.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lyle, I don't have any info on the Kwik Way loader but I'm curious what brand filter is on the 125 now? Perhaps it has the wrong filter.