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Archive through May 26, 2013
- Thread starter wshytle
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Hey all - curious what folks may use for breather block filter material on the old k161s. Considered using steel wool but not sure about it. I know they're available new but gotta be a suitable home remedy or so I would think. Thanks and hope everyone is enjoying the holiday weekend.
I was taught that you work the snot out of them for 30 to 45 minutes, and keep it bumping the governor which is what I've done on any that I ever did.
Terry D.
I've heard of guys using the old style Scotchbrite scrubbing pads. I don't see why it wouldn't work if you use the thin ones.
They are more dense than the OEM filter material, which might plug up quicker if you have any blow by at all.
I've heard of guys using the old style Scotchbrite scrubbing pads. I don't see why it wouldn't work if you use the thin ones.
They are more dense than the OEM filter material, which might plug up quicker if you have any blow by at all.
pstanaitis
New member
- Joined
- May 26, 2013
- Messages
- 4
- displayname
- Pete Stanaitis
Narrow frame PTO clutches don't seem to last as long as they used to---
I have been using and servicing my 6 70-127 Cubs since about 1980 and I have replaced a few PTO clutches. But in the last couple of years, they have not been lasting as long. They start to slip in a only a season or so. Finding real useful info and hints about them is very hard. I have spent hours goggling and looking around on youtube for really good info. There are a few threads here and there, but the authors seem less experienced than I am.
Things I'd like to know:
1. How to test the rebuilt clutch. How much static torque should it take to break in loose on the bench?
2. How bad can the pressure plate be and still be reusable? One guy said to dress it back to a "smooth" surface with 80 sandpaper. Is this correct? Should the same thing be done with the clutch pulley's driven surface?
3. It is okay to dress the clutch disk back to its stock surface? (80 grit sandpaper seems to work here also, is that okay?)
4. How thin can the clutch disk be and still work acceptably? A brand new one that I have in my hand is 0.177" thick.
5. Any hints to add?
6. Belt width: I can buy 1/2" wide and 5/8" wide belts to go from the PTO to the deck from many places where they SAY they are the correct part number -----489-R2, I think, but they never last. Have the rest of you found this to be true? Do you always go back to the "original" 3/8" wide belt in a cub Cadet sleeve?
In trade for any info, I do have a narrow frame cub cadet page the might have a hint or two:
http://www.spaco.org/cub.htm
Pete Stanaitis
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I have been using and servicing my 6 70-127 Cubs since about 1980 and I have replaced a few PTO clutches. But in the last couple of years, they have not been lasting as long. They start to slip in a only a season or so. Finding real useful info and hints about them is very hard. I have spent hours goggling and looking around on youtube for really good info. There are a few threads here and there, but the authors seem less experienced than I am.
Things I'd like to know:
1. How to test the rebuilt clutch. How much static torque should it take to break in loose on the bench?
2. How bad can the pressure plate be and still be reusable? One guy said to dress it back to a "smooth" surface with 80 sandpaper. Is this correct? Should the same thing be done with the clutch pulley's driven surface?
3. It is okay to dress the clutch disk back to its stock surface? (80 grit sandpaper seems to work here also, is that okay?)
4. How thin can the clutch disk be and still work acceptably? A brand new one that I have in my hand is 0.177" thick.
5. Any hints to add?
6. Belt width: I can buy 1/2" wide and 5/8" wide belts to go from the PTO to the deck from many places where they SAY they are the correct part number -----489-R2, I think, but they never last. Have the rest of you found this to be true? Do you always go back to the "original" 3/8" wide belt in a cub Cadet sleeve?
In trade for any info, I do have a narrow frame cub cadet page the might have a hint or two:
http://www.spaco.org/cub.htm
Pete Stanaitis
--------------
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Did a little repair in the 109 today. The mule drive pulleys needed replacing. One was completely seized. Had some spares on hand and was back in mowing business pretty quickly.
No movement on the 126, still need to adjust the throttle pivot tension - thanks everyone for the tips on fixing that.
Next week the 126 will join the 109 on camp mowing duty. Lots of grass to mow and usually every other week. I'm impressed with two things about these IHCC's. One is (so far) the mule drive belt will not slip in the tall grass and two - it is amazing (to me) how the tired 10 hp engine on the 109 w/44 inch deck plows through the grass with apparent ease and based on my first mow with the 126, how easily it handled a full 48 inch deck of grass. It makes me wonder if a lot of $$$'s can be saved over time in both tractor purchase cost and gas mileage with these 10 and 12 hp tractors - yet still get the job done.
No movement on the 126, still need to adjust the throttle pivot tension - thanks everyone for the tips on fixing that.
Next week the 126 will join the 109 on camp mowing duty. Lots of grass to mow and usually every other week. I'm impressed with two things about these IHCC's. One is (so far) the mule drive belt will not slip in the tall grass and two - it is amazing (to me) how the tired 10 hp engine on the 109 w/44 inch deck plows through the grass with apparent ease and based on my first mow with the 126, how easily it handled a full 48 inch deck of grass. It makes me wonder if a lot of $$$'s can be saved over time in both tractor purchase cost and gas mileage with these 10 and 12 hp tractors - yet still get the job done.
Pete S.
I'm no expert by any means, but I do average sending out on average, 17 rebuilt PTO's a month.
1. No need if you use the adjusting tool provided in the rebuild kit.
2.A clutch is a clutch is a clutch. No matter new or old, it you rebuild it, BOTH surfaces have to be dressed, You gotta get rid of the hard spots and the heat dips and the gunk. 80 grit is good. (Pics below).
3.Same as #2
4.NOS disc are 3/16" thick.
5.A lathe and or a 6" wide belt sander are 2 main tools in resurfacing a PTO to get a good crosshatch pattern.
6.There's only 2 GOOD belts for our Cubs, OEM and the Stens Blue Belt. All belts are not created equal and also not made to be twisted and run across mule drives like Cubs do.
It's dang hard to take a good pic of these things, LOL
I'm no expert by any means, but I do average sending out on average, 17 rebuilt PTO's a month.
1. No need if you use the adjusting tool provided in the rebuild kit.
2.A clutch is a clutch is a clutch. No matter new or old, it you rebuild it, BOTH surfaces have to be dressed, You gotta get rid of the hard spots and the heat dips and the gunk. 80 grit is good. (Pics below).
3.Same as #2
4.NOS disc are 3/16" thick.
5.A lathe and or a 6" wide belt sander are 2 main tools in resurfacing a PTO to get a good crosshatch pattern.
6.There's only 2 GOOD belts for our Cubs, OEM and the Stens Blue Belt. All belts are not created equal and also not made to be twisted and run across mule drives like Cubs do.
It's dang hard to take a good pic of these things, LOL
Pete S.
I went to your site and saw that you didn't find a solution for loose steering knuckles.
Do a search here for "taper pin", and yes use the double quotes.
I went to your site and saw that you didn't find a solution for loose steering knuckles.
Do a search here for "taper pin", and yes use the double quotes.
So a little over a week has passed since I bought a used 3 point for the 122. The other day I came across a deal on a brinly 10" plow and sleeve hitch adapter. I won't tell what I paid but it was a steal!! So now I'm filling my tires with ww fluid and I found a great way to do it and wanted to share. Remove the shraeder valve, Break the bead just above the valve stem on one side. Take a 2 gal weed sprayer and remove the sprayer from the hose. Put the hose over the valve stem on the wheel. Set the tire up so the valvestem is in the 12 oclock position. Fill your sprayer back up and put the pump back on. Pump it up and let it go. It fills them in no time and if you already have the sprayer it doesn't cost anymore than the ww fluid and a little time. I figure ill end up with about 50 lbs per tire. Hopefully when it dries up a little ill get to try the brinly out.
What Gerry said!
pstanaitis
New member
- Joined
- May 26, 2013
- Messages
- 4
- displayname
- Pete Stanaitis
To Digger:
Thank you for your help with the PTO clutch.
Regarding your note about the steering knuckle, I quess I better revisit my "Cub" page, since I have had a page up about that taper pin solution since 2002:
http://www.spaco.org/loose.htm
Thank you for the "heads up". I see that I rebuilt that page's navigation bar years ago, but I left all those links at the bottom!!! Shame on me!!!
By the way, I am now getting a new kind of pressure spring, one without the bent ears. Are they any better or worse than the older style?
Thank you for your help with the PTO clutch.
Regarding your note about the steering knuckle, I quess I better revisit my "Cub" page, since I have had a page up about that taper pin solution since 2002:
http://www.spaco.org/loose.htm
Thank you for the "heads up". I see that I rebuilt that page's navigation bar years ago, but I left all those links at the bottom!!! Shame on me!!!
By the way, I am now getting a new kind of pressure spring, one without the bent ears. Are they any better or worse than the older style?
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 1,259
- displayname
- Brian Branstetter
Happy Memorial Day to all
Thank You to all that have given there service to our country and those who have given there lives. God Bless
Thank You to all that have given there service to our country and those who have given there lives. God Bless
Pete S.
The 2 spring PTO's are better than the singles IMO.
You can't put 2 springs on a single spring PTO though.
There's nothing to keep them from spinning. And yes I see guys try that all the time and they end up breaking things in the process.
The 2 spring PTO's are better than the singles IMO.
You can't put 2 springs on a single spring PTO though.
There's nothing to keep them from spinning. And yes I see guys try that all the time and they end up breaking things in the process.
The rims for the project tractor are done and I mounted the 5.70-8 tires on the rims. That was a PITA, but the <u>REAL</u> pain in my M
F
A
is mounting the rear ATV type tire. These are the ones that arrive in shrink wrap and are all distorted. MAN, what a F
B
those things are to seat. Looks like I'm going to have to borrow one of those "Blast Tanks" to get 'um to seat. I F
HATE working with tires. Anyone have any tricks to share??
Thanks to Mike Masheris for doing the aluminum Oxide powder coating on the rims. I didn't booger 'um up to bad.
Thanks to Mike Masheris for doing the aluminum Oxide powder coating on the rims. I didn't booger 'um up to bad.
