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Archive through May 13, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Charles-

Sorry for the set back. Don't worry... what goes around comes around and usually something better comes along.

Don-

Apparently that guy wants a trailer queen. Beware of people that change their minds/plans midstream. Does he really know the condition of what he has to offer? If everything works well and you decide you really want it offer him the O and $50 for paint. For that amount I can paint one easy with the Valspar I use.

Unfortunately when people take time to think about things like this I find they tend to just back out. Maybe this guy will be the exception. I know you'd love that tiller.

Good luck.
 
LONNIE B - TIME for a ROAD TRIP for you! There's a couple shops around Madison I won't recommend, they do good enough work but I won't recommend them. Dave Kirk recommended the shop I used on the K321 and I was IMPRESSED. They had a HEMI on an engine stand sitting in their parts sales room, the owner talked about rebuilding airplane engines for the EAA fly-in. THAT shop I would recommend. For boring/honing the block, grinding the crank U/S, 3-angle valve job on both valves but no planing of the head I think the bill was $135-$150. I have the reciept in the shop.

You could blue-print a V8 block for $700-$1000.
 
Denny, I bet that's the same shop that Dave used for my Killer Kohler K301 and for the milder Killer Kohler K241 that he has waiting for me to pick up, the machining portion of the K241 rebuild was $162.45 which was for this: "Clean block, recut valve seats, bore cylinder, resurface deck, Deck head .045 and blast." I really to need to schedule a road trip to visit Dave and pick up the K241, been to busy...
 
James P,

Regarding your question "where the spring connects on the QA Latch Bar on the front of a 782." Sorry, there seems to be some confusion on your question. I assume you are talking about the Quick Attach latches on the front lower portion of your frame for mounting a mower mule drive or other front mount implement on the front of your 782. On the 82 series, IH discontinued the use of the Quick Attach springs in the picture posted by Charlie and used a simple spring with a hook on each end that attaches to the QA Latch Bar rod and a small hole in the front center of the chassis frame cross-member. The spring part number is 732-3002. If you use the parts lookup link above, type in "782" as the model number and then select on the "Frame" component, you will see an illustrated picture of there QA Latch lever and the spring. Hope this helps.

Don T,

That is an nice, mostly unmolested 62 Original you have there and it has electric start with the ammeter kit installed too. It's been repainted once but no rust, cracks or missing parts and it's clean.
 
KRAIG - I'd be surprised if it was a different shop, It's been around a l-o-n-g time and they seem to stay fairly busy, plus they worked around my schedule to pick-up and drop-off the engine on Saturday's.

We need to work together and plan on visiting Dave at the same time. Paul R wants to ride with me.
 
David S.
Yepper, our sponsors carry them.
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Ron S, - Thanks for the info. I apologize for the confusion. As I reread my post it was not clear at all. YOu have correctly read my mind in describing what I wanted. I envisioned this spring attaching out towards the latch end, but will look for the "small hole in the chassis cross memeber" based on your advise.

Thanks to all for the RAPID response. I will work to improve posts in the future.
 
Don T. Nice Original! That is worth driving 500 miles for. I suspect your party is getting cold feet and using the tractor's "condition" as an excuse to back out of the deal, or perhaps as a negotiating tactic.

On the other hand, if you paint it, will it bring even more money?

From what I can tell, the Originals and the 100s are bringing top dollar these days 2-3K USD.

Whatever its grade, it is certainly not "rough." Someone had a Original Frame posted in the Classifieds a year or two ago, it was about four different colors, missing the engine and many of the controls, there really wasn't much left of it --now THAT was rough!
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JEREMIAH - I have the 70 Dad bought new back in 1965, an "Heirloom tractor" if you will. It's rough by my standards, but starts & runs well for general cart towing, spraying, winter snow removal with the blade, but if You give me $1500 for it I'll include the factory hood all repaired and with a fresh $250 base coat/clear coat paint job on it, and even include the NOS decal set and all the lights I have for it, though they're not factory. It's supposed to become a "Twin to my @72".
 

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