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Archive through May 08, 2004
- Thread starter wcompton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Got a pretty nice deal on a near-new Cub Cadet pusher, had to do it since it'd take more time to get the 44GT deck off the wall than it does to push it.
Anyone care to guess why the PO didn't think it mowed that well?????
Anyone care to guess why the PO didn't think it mowed that well?????
Wyatt -- he had the mower upside down
good lookin mower ... my wife would even want that one ... and she does want a push mower that she can push easier - she said it's to hard pushing me on the 2166 or 127 ... damn gas prices !!!!
Well, first time I've ever used a spray gun, and it came out much better then I had hoped for! The only run was behind the left idler wheel so no one can see my mistake.
Quick question though. After I was finished I quickly dumped out the extra paint then filled the cup with paint thinner. After swishing it around for about a minute I dumped the thinner out, but the cup was still a white inside. More thinner hasn't budged the paint, is this normal?
Any way, now I just need to get a new pulley cover, which one to the sponsors is going to try to get for me. The grass is green and life is good...
Quick question though. After I was finished I quickly dumped out the extra paint then filled the cup with paint thinner. After swishing it around for about a minute I dumped the thinner out, but the cup was still a white inside. More thinner hasn't budged the paint, is this normal?
Any way, now I just need to get a new pulley cover, which one to the sponsors is going to try to get for me. The grass is green and life is good...
Matt -- strip that sucker down IF you want to use it again. Take out the needle and all parts and clean them good and after it is clean put a light coat of oil , such as 3in1 or other light grade on the needle and the plunger on the trigger and put it back together. Yes it will leave a "slight" tint color on the lid sometimes. Before it's completely stripped down spray it with thinner in it and hold your finger over the nozzle to help clear the tip. Wash it like it was getting ready to preform brain surgery ... on you !
I put a throttle shaft bushing kit in my 129 today. It was not as hard as it looked. It runs a lot better now but still will not start good. I will have to work on the ACR this fall. It seems to be letting the exhaust valve to close too soon while cranking. After I got it together and running, I noticed sparks coming from the front. The bolt on the s/g bracket came loose. Upon tightening it up, I found the pulley loose on the crankshaft. A simple 10 minute job turned out to be almost 1.5 hours. But at least it is back 100% ready to go now.
I'm no expert, but I do believe that the storm chasers (antennae, lights, whole shebang) stopping through town tonight is a bad omen. Odd folks, but they're definitely not hanging around for a simple rain shower!
Bryan-
Thanks, it took a lot of looking but it was worth it. The engines come preset at 3200-3300 RPM, seems a little low but it cuts decent. I didn't really want a mower that's self-propelled but it's not all that bad, especially since our yard is pretty uneven. My wife kept asking why I don't just do it with the 169, but about 3 passes in front and about 5 in back would have done the whole thing, hardly worth getting the deck down to get dirty.
Bryan-
Thanks, it took a lot of looking but it was worth it. The engines come preset at 3200-3300 RPM, seems a little low but it cuts decent. I didn't really want a mower that's self-propelled but it's not all that bad, especially since our yard is pretty uneven. My wife kept asking why I don't just do it with the 169, but about 3 passes in front and about 5 in back would have done the whole thing, hardly worth getting the deck down to get dirty.
Hey Fred... I've just gone through a similar situation, and gotten a good list of suggestions from the bunch. Aside from Steve's suggestions, make sure the condenser and coil are good (and connections and grounding are tight).
Next- Pop off the breather cover, take a pair of wrenches and check the valve lash. Manual says it should be between 0.017 and 0.019. You'll probably find that it's a little tight from age. Open 'em up to about .020'...
Then fill the tank up with gas, and pour in enough Marvel Mystery Oil to turn the fuel pretty red. Drive it around at wide-open throttle, with the ratio lever in slow-to-moderate speeds... do it all day. Take your sons, daughters, grandchildren, wife(s), girlfriend(s), and dawg(s) for a ride. Don't take cats (cats don't like riding on tractors). When the gas-tank's about empty, refill it with gas, no MMO, and take it to about a 300' section of 6% grade, open the throttle, and put it in max-speed... it should be back to normal... take it back home, reset the valves to 0.019 and call it a day.
Apparently, a little gummy-oily-sooty-crud builds up on the exhaust valve stem, and when the crud gets warm, it oozes down into the guide and makes the valve lazy. When you let'er cool off, it doesn't stick so bad, so it settles down. The MMO apparently washes the crud away, as mine seems to be back in the land-of-the-living right now...
Next- Pop off the breather cover, take a pair of wrenches and check the valve lash. Manual says it should be between 0.017 and 0.019. You'll probably find that it's a little tight from age. Open 'em up to about .020'...
Then fill the tank up with gas, and pour in enough Marvel Mystery Oil to turn the fuel pretty red. Drive it around at wide-open throttle, with the ratio lever in slow-to-moderate speeds... do it all day. Take your sons, daughters, grandchildren, wife(s), girlfriend(s), and dawg(s) for a ride. Don't take cats (cats don't like riding on tractors). When the gas-tank's about empty, refill it with gas, no MMO, and take it to about a 300' section of 6% grade, open the throttle, and put it in max-speed... it should be back to normal... take it back home, reset the valves to 0.019 and call it a day.
Apparently, a little gummy-oily-sooty-crud builds up on the exhaust valve stem, and when the crud gets warm, it oozes down into the guide and makes the valve lazy. When you let'er cool off, it doesn't stick so bad, so it settles down. The MMO apparently washes the crud away, as mine seems to be back in the land-of-the-living right now...
I use to have to s-l-o-w-l-y pour some stuff into a '64 Wildcat 455 to unstick the vales. I poured it into the carb ... no skitters in the tri-state area for a couple of days
then back to smokin the tires and going down main street with the 4-bbl kicked in. Man that big bore sounded good between the buildings with those butterflies open !
Some general questions...
1. a 149 w/ hydr lift - should it have the sleeve hitch on back or was this an option?
2.So IH built these CC's and they were a hit with hobby farms and big yards. They offered front blades, shredders, snow throwers, trailers, etc - why didn't they offer a loader? Seems like an obvious implement they missed - or would this have taken away too much from the main line sales?
3. Anyone have any objective data with respect to mufflers, quiet kits, quiet lines, and dba measurements?
1. a 149 w/ hydr lift - should it have the sleeve hitch on back or was this an option?
2.So IH built these CC's and they were a hit with hobby farms and big yards. They offered front blades, shredders, snow throwers, trailers, etc - why didn't they offer a loader? Seems like an obvious implement they missed - or would this have taken away too much from the main line sales?
3. Anyone have any objective data with respect to mufflers, quiet kits, quiet lines, and dba measurements?
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Calvin
1. they were indeed an option
2. there were a few companies that offered a loader pakage to fit most any cub, like danco. I'm betting that "the keeper of the photos" dude will help me out here.. "OH Kraig!!?"...
3. there has been some talk lately on the forum regading QL kit, check out the archives, do a search. as far as dB measurements, i'm sure someone here 'prolly has some old, dusty, IH internal memo that they found somewhere that may have the #....
1. they were indeed an option
2. there were a few companies that offered a loader pakage to fit most any cub, like danco. I'm betting that "the keeper of the photos" dude will help me out here.. "OH Kraig!!?"...
3. there has been some talk lately on the forum regading QL kit, check out the archives, do a search. as far as dB measurements, i'm sure someone here 'prolly has some old, dusty, IH internal memo that they found somewhere that may have the #....
Hi Calvin!
1) Sleeve hitch was an option- there were quite a few implements that didn't require it. The Cub Cadet 3-point was even an option.
On your 149, the 'standard' part, was the hydraulic lift... the rockshaft, instead of being operated by a big lever going from your right hand down to your right foot, was operated by the small hydrualic lever. This rotated the rockshaft to lift the mower deck and front implements like snowthrowers, dozer-blades,etc.
The 3-point 'kit' consisted of a long bar which connected to the rockshaft (just under the hydraulic cylinder) and reached back to the back end of the tractor's frame. It included a big cast-iron bellcrank with about a 1" hole facing back, and a pit to slide into that hole. Lastly, there was a pair of U-shaped metal straps 1/4" thick sandwiched together to provide two mounting tabs to hook implements to.
It was to these two tabs, and 1" rod, that the 'sleeve hitch' connected.
The Cub Cadet 3-point hitch was used for lots of made-for Cub Cadet implements (*I believe, and others please verify) that IH-CC actually made very few implements, but had quite a few made by OTHER manufacturers, then given IH colors and emblems, sold BY IHCC. Still more yet were made by others (like Brinly) and sold under the original manufacturers' names, but illustrated and marketed through IH Cub-Cadet brochures.
2) re. Loaders: IH didn't make a loader for the CC, but you'll see all sorts of brochures (IH and others) that show Kwick-Way, Johnson Workhorse, and other loaders fitted to Cub Cadets of many different models. I believe the reasoning was that IH-CC was in the business of manufacturing, marketing, and selling small tractors, so they built tractors, and enhanced the desireability of their tractors by making them plenty capable of physically accepting, and also surviving the attachment of implements, and then working with implement manufacturers to get good implements available for their tractors. They let the implement manufacturers do what they do best, and IHCC concentrated on making a good platform for accepting and working those implements.
You'll find that there's quite a few drawbar- and sleeve-hitch implements that're out there, many are really good, but some are just too light to survive. Where these IH-CC machines are built using the F-cub's cast-iron transaxle, heavy frame and powertrain, your average 'garden-tractor' of today is merely 'lawn-tractor', a toy, or overglorified lawn-mower by comparison... not really built to do 'ground-engaging' work. Attaching implements to lightweight machines means the implement will likely never get worked hard, and after being worked once or twice, will probably be hung up and ignored... but if you hook that same implement to a Cub Cadet, you'll find that it'll get torn into pieces in short-order. The IH-CC was truely a 'tractor', begat by scaling-down of an agricultural platform.
1) Sleeve hitch was an option- there were quite a few implements that didn't require it. The Cub Cadet 3-point was even an option.
On your 149, the 'standard' part, was the hydraulic lift... the rockshaft, instead of being operated by a big lever going from your right hand down to your right foot, was operated by the small hydrualic lever. This rotated the rockshaft to lift the mower deck and front implements like snowthrowers, dozer-blades,etc.
The 3-point 'kit' consisted of a long bar which connected to the rockshaft (just under the hydraulic cylinder) and reached back to the back end of the tractor's frame. It included a big cast-iron bellcrank with about a 1" hole facing back, and a pit to slide into that hole. Lastly, there was a pair of U-shaped metal straps 1/4" thick sandwiched together to provide two mounting tabs to hook implements to.
It was to these two tabs, and 1" rod, that the 'sleeve hitch' connected.
The Cub Cadet 3-point hitch was used for lots of made-for Cub Cadet implements (*I believe, and others please verify) that IH-CC actually made very few implements, but had quite a few made by OTHER manufacturers, then given IH colors and emblems, sold BY IHCC. Still more yet were made by others (like Brinly) and sold under the original manufacturers' names, but illustrated and marketed through IH Cub-Cadet brochures.
2) re. Loaders: IH didn't make a loader for the CC, but you'll see all sorts of brochures (IH and others) that show Kwick-Way, Johnson Workhorse, and other loaders fitted to Cub Cadets of many different models. I believe the reasoning was that IH-CC was in the business of manufacturing, marketing, and selling small tractors, so they built tractors, and enhanced the desireability of their tractors by making them plenty capable of physically accepting, and also surviving the attachment of implements, and then working with implement manufacturers to get good implements available for their tractors. They let the implement manufacturers do what they do best, and IHCC concentrated on making a good platform for accepting and working those implements.
You'll find that there's quite a few drawbar- and sleeve-hitch implements that're out there, many are really good, but some are just too light to survive. Where these IH-CC machines are built using the F-cub's cast-iron transaxle, heavy frame and powertrain, your average 'garden-tractor' of today is merely 'lawn-tractor', a toy, or overglorified lawn-mower by comparison... not really built to do 'ground-engaging' work. Attaching implements to lightweight machines means the implement will likely never get worked hard, and after being worked once or twice, will probably be hung up and ignored... but if you hook that same implement to a Cub Cadet, you'll find that it'll get torn into pieces in short-order. The IH-CC was truely a 'tractor', begat by scaling-down of an agricultural platform.
Hey Guys & Gals!
Don't forget to phone home!
Don't forget to phone home!
S
smckenzie
Guest
I'm having problems with my 169. After it runs for a while, 30 minutes or so, it looses power. For example last night when cutting the lawn it was all right on level ground but when I went up any hills (even slight hills)it would start to misfire and made almost a knocking sound. This was after 30 minutes or so. I noticed it a little this winter but it was usually at the tail end of finishing the driveway so it wasn't a problem.
It runs great otherwise. The engine is in great shape it starts on the first rotation and it doesn't use a drop of oil. I did a head gasket this winter and the combustion changer was great very clean very minor carbon.
Could this be a fuel issue? Maybe running too lean after a good warmup? Any thoughts on where I should start to trouble shoot would be appreciated.
It runs great otherwise. The engine is in great shape it starts on the first rotation and it doesn't use a drop of oil. I did a head gasket this winter and the combustion changer was great very clean very minor carbon.
Could this be a fuel issue? Maybe running too lean after a good warmup? Any thoughts on where I should start to trouble shoot would be appreciated.
S
smckenzie
Guest
I was in too much of a hurry I should have read the posts before I posted mine. It sounds like Fred is having a similar problem to mine. Fred does my post describe your problem? I'm going to go through the suggestions a see what I find.
Thanks
Scott
Thanks
Scott
