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Archive through May 07, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Park Rapids Mn.
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Kraig M.
It just started snowing here.
BIG flakes falling like crazy!
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They updated the forecast to 3 to 4" now.
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Charlie, yikes, I just checked the weather up near the cabin, looks like 2" to 4" tonight. Not gonna be any fun to cut and peel red pine trees in that weather.
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Though it looks like any snow won't stay around very long on Saturday with a high of 52.

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Well you guys know me ... I vote <u>NO</u> for tubes from a helluva lot of experience.

You have tubes , you STILL get flats , you HAVE to take it off to patch it.

Tubeless , you get a flat , you pull out a plug kit , plug it / air it up and you're working.

That's from years of bush hogging thorn infested fields and driving on the highways ...

Charlie - We're down to 36 tomorrow night ... KEEP IT up there !!!
 
Avery - I doubt they make'em that small but "Liners" would be your best bet if you don't want Slime or anything like that in your tires.
 
thanks for the responses, here are my answers,

KENtuckyKEN (Kweaver)-
i have the service manual, I already set it to the specs, but it says I might still have to move the spring, as each engine is a little different.
again, it ran fine until i started hitting heavy grass. not too heavy, but the kind where you hear the idle come up when you hit it, and you might have to shift to 1 low.also, stepping on clutch, does not avoid a stall. normally, if you start to bog down in heavy grass, you stop, and you avoid the stall.
the only thing I did not try is the adjustment of the governor arm, where you loosen the bolt and move the governor arm on the shaft. i didnt want to try that until i was certain i had a governor adjustment problem.

the exhaust leak causing stalling. i do not know why it was stalling, only that when someone on here pointed out the leak in a video i posted they suggested it as a possible cause and it stopped stalling when i patched it. it was leaking at a joint , near the carb, and i used furnace cement.
some suggested the hot exhaust was heating the gas and causing vapor lock, others suggested it was causing loss of back pressure.
 
Vince, Matt,
This was discussed a few years ago on here, and just was wondering what the consensus was... I scares me, too. I wish they'd make Gators for the 42". of course an 11-1/2" blade may look funny...
 
Donald Tanner (Dtanner)

i am doubting it is the carb, because the carb is new and i already checked everything on it during the previous stalling problem. it also does not stall as soon as it hits the hill, or on every hill or only going up,and sometimes it stalls on level ground with heavy grass and, the governor does start to work.
of course, i also spent 6 months checking everything else on the tractor instead of fixing the exhaust leak, so it would not be the first time you guys were right.

now that i think about it, i suppose that could be the problem. if idle drops due to heavy grass, governor calls for more gas,if gas cant be delivered, stall.
 
Dave Ross (Dross) -

back yard is not THAT steep. not so steep you cant drive the tractor sideways on it. it is better described as uneven.
i would not call it any steeper then driving up onto a trailer. or even a wheel chair ramp.

the grass grows twice as fast in the back, front yard as two large 75 year old maples, bigger then the house, so the grass is mostly in shade.

when i cut the grass , before it started getting thick, the governor would increase the RPMs for maybe a minute, then the tractor would be level again.
 
Frank, how tall is the grass your mowing and how big is your deck?
 
I'd like to see some photos of your tow-able rakes.
Thinking about building one for leaves, sticks, long cut grass, trash, yard debris, etc.
Thoughts and suggestions about what you use and what you would do different if you could build it again.
Thanks
 
KENtuckyKEN (Kweaver)-

i already know that, but i thought you guys did exorcisms!
 
can someone please help me. im swapping a m18 into an ihcc 782. ive been doing research and have been reading about adding a relay to make it work, but that is all i have learned. i currently have a 1812 wire harness hoping to swap it in, but forget about it,that thing is in left field when it comes to my control panel. im hoping that adding a simple relay will do the trick, but i need way more information such as type of relay and where it goes. a diagram would be heaven sent.
thanks, jon
 
Dave Ross (Dross)

6" tall grass, 42 " deck.

next week, after grass grows again, i will post a video of it cutting, then stalling. you can see, and hear, what it does and how tall the grass is.
 
and, not to complain about you guys trying to help me, i mean, you are helping, but no one has answered one of my questions.

if you move the governor spring, and it causes you to lose throttle control, meaning the spring is too loose to allow the throttle to push the governor arm against the throttle on the carb, is it safe to assume that is the wrong spring setting, and it would be a mistake to try to adjust anything else to get it to work?
 
Frank, Adjust your govenor per the manual, Make sure you have the right spring.
The last time you had problems you fixed a bunch of stuff. Thought the last thing you fixed was the problem. MABEY, it was a little bit of all the things just built up till it wouldn't run anymore. If you want to find the problem you have to start with the basics. Make sure what you have is set-up right before you look for what else is wrong.
 
Frank S
Did you see Ken`s post ( KENtuckyKEN (Kweaver) on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 03:01 am
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.????? where do you have your governor spring set??? Don T
 
Frank S:
New carbs can have the wrong float level - if it is too low, it doesn't "make it run out sooner", it leans the mixture and the engine won't pick up a load properly.. I think you are still chasing the same problem you had months ago...

Scott Tanner:
While I agree with what Vince said in part - no reattaching anything to a set of blades, I certainly don't see a problem with shortening a set by cutting the ends off (and balancing) if the hub fits properly... Heck, I shorten the blades on my Sc.g ZTR every time I hit gravel....

On tubes vs tubeless, I agree with Kentuck - I can plug a tire and have the tractor working again in 5 minutes (after I find the plug kit, of course). Slime works and I haven't seen a rust problem with it (it's almost mandatory on any thing that comes with the #$%@@$^& Chinese/3rd world offshore Pacific rim tires on it)..messy?? Man up and get yer hands goooey - it won't hurt ya!!
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Hello Gentlemen-

I have yet another quick question: Will a bad ammeter stop the starting connection? I just replaced one with an older IH meter that was working and I now get nothing turning the key. I'm chasing a problem of not charging and the meter that was on the 108 wouldn't change needle position when running. It also had rust at the base of the needle. I need yet another tractor for a lawn trailer to help with the garden so I pulled the 108 out and charged up the battery. I thought the battery was bad but it took a charge and cranked the tractor several times this morning but I wasn't getting a charge. Now, like I said, it will do nothing when the key is turned.

Any ideas will be appreciated....Wayne
 
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