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sblunier

sblunier

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Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Head Bolts: Grade 8 bolts will respond to heat the same as grade 8 studs. The difference here is the additional stack of metal parts that expand and contract (spacer and tank bracket).

Torque SHOULD be more consistent with studs because the washer/nut are run right down against the head to establish head gasket torque. The spacers and tank bracket are taken out of the equation when this method is used. The tank bracket can also be taken off without disturbing head torque if studs are used.

Just to be clear, grade 8 bolts vs. grade 8 studs isn't the issue....the stack of extra parts between the bolt head and the cylinder head is.......

(And I THINK/ ASSUME this was Harry's point all along...
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Steve B

I used grade 8 threaded rod and cut off the sizes I needed. I used one washer and nut off the head and made up spacers from heavy wall black iron pipe. it worked great on my 125 rebuild .
 
David S,

You can get new studs via your local Kohler/CC dealer or via the colorful boxes at the top of the page. They are still available.
 
Steve B - Mr Plow - there you go hitting the nail directly on the head again. Your words explain it so much better than mine. I got grilled for saying this on e before but I'm going to say it again - you, me and Albert E love it when great minds come together.
 
Well then, I guess I'll have to get different studs. The ones I have, another cub fan gave 'em to me, are 3.25" long and have .75" thread on one end and 1-7/8" on the other, If I screw the 3/4 inch section in the head like in the picture posted the other day, there are no threads for the nut.

If I turn the studs end for end so to have threads showing for the nut then add a washer, nut, and spacer it will put everything else way too high. Guess I need to screw the studs in to the correct length first, then cut down the spacers.

This whole darn mess must have not been right from the get go before I even got the tractor.
 
David Schwandt

BTDT and then threaded rod came to my aid.I did a dry fit and the cut the rod for give me the fit I wanted. That also gave me the torque I needed for the head and allowed me to use very little torque to hold the tin in place. I ran it twice and checked my torque setting and the added the rest of the tin. done
 
Go to NAPA and see if they can help, they usually have a decent stud selection.
 
Dave Dave Dave S - you have the correct studs. I did some calculations and took some of my own measurements.

You said your studs are 3.25" long overall with 3/4" threads on one end and 1 7/8" threads on the other. That means you have "5/8" no threads".

I just checked the head I have on a Kohler 7hp (it's all I have handy to check) and it's 3/4" thick where the stud/bolt is installed. This means your studs with 5/8" no threads are perfect as long as your head is 3/4" thick where the stud is installed.

I also did some other calculations based on this and arrived at the following.
3/4" screwed into block
3/4" head thickness
5/16" thick washer and nut
11/16" spacer
3/16" heat shield or gas tank mount
5/16" thick washer and nut
This totals 3" and leaves 1/4".

I used 5/16" as measurement for thick washer and nut because that's the thickness of the thick washer and bolt head on my 7hp engine. I'll bet the thickness of your thick washer and nut is actually a little more than 5/16" - more likely they are 3/8" or even 7/16" and you'll end up with 1/8" or even NOTHING showing.

If you haven't actually loose fit your studs to see then you have to try it - and make sure your studs are screwing in the full 3/4". If you tried one stud and saw no threads when you set the head on I'll bet the threads in your block are bunged up and the stud isn't screwing in the full 3/4".

We're gonna get this and we're gonna get this correct (whether the Correct Police are checking or not).
 
Holy crap. I though only us pullers were this anal about proper bolts. But then again I've been know to use whatever screwed in the hole from my "magic bolt bin" too. That is very precise work...
 
Harry,
you forgot to figure in the curvature of the earth on a full moon,and the head gasket.
 
Well then, I must have the wrong head.
The boss is .80"
And the spacers are 11/16"
and this is what I end up with when I put the spacer, nut and washer over the stud.
Only option now is to trim the spacers and ends of the studs for the clearance needed for the gas tank

295310.jpg


295311.jpg
 
Dave - your head seems about correct. How about posting a pic of all your parts with a ruler showing dimensions. Something is just not adding up here. I'm wondering about the thickness of your thick washers and nuts. I'll bet they are more than 5/16" total. If they are you need to cut back the thickness of your spacers.

Lewis Do-Da - I didn't forget the head gasket. I left it out on purpose cause it gets "squished". As for the earth, well that's minimal effect and actually already applied to my on-line calculator. I can't post the effect here because there are to many zeros to fit on the page.
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Nic - pullers? Hey, this site is the real deal.
 
Dave,
that tin is for the high boss head,see my pictures and it has larger holes in it for the spaceridge.

Harry,figger I throw the earth in you calculations, space is out there.
 
Dave - if I understand what Lewis is getting at I think you have to enlarge the holes in the tin cover where the spacers are used. This will allow the tin cover to sit down on the head where it's supposed to be. Once you do this I think your spacers will still be to high up and it must be because you are using thick nuts instead of the original thin nuts.

We're gonna get there and get this right
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. I have not lost faith yet.
 
I have a question about my model 126. My father bought this tractor new in July 1970. The s/n on the rear axle is: 2050039U346828. According to the chart in FAQ, this s/n is for a model 123? But in the kind codes in FAQ, the "39" in the s/n indicates a model 126. What gives?
 
Don T - are you looking at Charlie's FAQ no.97 Kind Code chart? It shows 0039 to be model 126
 
And it appears that your dads 126 was made early June 1970
 
If looks like if I make new spacers at 3/8" and cut/shorten the 3 studs under the gas tank, it will all fit like it should.

I think the thickness of a 5/8" standar nut for a spacer will just about do it.

Don Trend: If your 126 is pretty much all original yet, which mine sure as heck aint, you could put to rest a lot of questions here.
How about some close up pictures of the top end of your engine?
 
Harry Bursell and Jeff Baker. The page I'm looking at for ind numbers was compiled by Myron Bounds. But the s/n codes for the 126 indicate a range of 307,000 - 400,000. As I mentioned, my s/n is 2050039U346828. That number range is as a 123 (157,290 - 218,209).
 

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