Thanks kraig. I didn't get too carried away or particular with the "refurb" of the 1650 but it looks much better than when it came home and should be the good reliable worker I'm looking for. The plow is only on because I painted the plow frame yellow to match the tractor
Archive through March 21, 2013
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Joseph - Nice 1650!
What brand are the rear tires? I'm planning of purchasing another set of Ags soon (a month or 2 or a year from now...) I really want Firestones, or maybe Tru Powers, but the ones on your 1650 look really nice.
What brand are the rear tires? I'm planning of purchasing another set of Ags soon (a month or 2 or a year from now...) I really want Firestones, or maybe Tru Powers, but the ones on your 1650 look really nice.
J
jclazar
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Looks great- and with out the side panels!, should run cooler IMOP. !
Thanks guys. I have side panels for it they just aren't painted yet. The rear tires are nanco super lugs 26x12-12's. I like them, haven't let me down yet. I do have fluid in them and three sets of weights to bolt on if I choose. I just started making a custom grille for it today since it was mia when I got it.
kostendorf
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Awesome looking 1650 Joseph.
jbaker
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Harry, I checked all my hydros and the steering tube sticks up 2 1/4 inchs, Now we need some quiet line lengths after serial number 530858
Don here is a picture of my dirty tiller set-up pullys from a mower mule drive.
Don here is a picture of my dirty tiller set-up pullys from a mower mule drive.
My 1250 603432 is 3 inches.
kostendorf
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1650 612727 3"
J
jclazar
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Are ya up!! Rise and shine fellas!
Don-
IH offered solid steel pulleys for the mule drive to use with the tiller. They have replaceable bearings and are a little pricey but still available. The stamped pulleys will work but it is suggested in the manual to use the solid pulleys. I got lucky and came across a mule drive on CL that had the solid steel pulleys and had it delivered for around $40 to my door.
That'll never happen again....
IH offered solid steel pulleys for the mule drive to use with the tiller. They have replaceable bearings and are a little pricey but still available. The stamped pulleys will work but it is suggested in the manual to use the solid pulleys. I got lucky and came across a mule drive on CL that had the solid steel pulleys and had it delivered for around $40 to my door.
That'll never happen again....
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Joseph-
Your tractor looks REALLY nice. Make sure you post pictures after you have the side panels and new grill on.
Your tractor looks REALLY nice. Make sure you post pictures after you have the side panels and new grill on.
Jeff-
I agree there's nothing wrong at all with using the stamped pulleys. There are probably more of them running tillers than the solids. When/if one wears out just stick another one on and till for another few years.
I just got extremely lucky I guess. Also, I bet the price difference between new bearings for the solids and new stamped pulleys isn't a great deal.
I agree there's nothing wrong at all with using the stamped pulleys. There are probably more of them running tillers than the solids. When/if one wears out just stick another one on and till for another few years.
I just got extremely lucky I guess. Also, I bet the price difference between new bearings for the solids and new stamped pulleys isn't a great deal.
Hello Gentlemen,
It's been awhile since I've posted anything here on the forum but I'm in need of some help with the diagnosis and repair of my Cub 169. It has recently developed a hydraulic leak on the back side of the pump housing where it mounts to the transmission. I've cleaned it up and am ready to start the repair but I'd like some guidance on this one. I've never worked on a hydrostatic system before. Any suggestions and /or guidance with dis-assembly, online shop manuals would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Reggie
It's been awhile since I've posted anything here on the forum but I'm in need of some help with the diagnosis and repair of my Cub 169. It has recently developed a hydraulic leak on the back side of the pump housing where it mounts to the transmission. I've cleaned it up and am ready to start the repair but I'd like some guidance on this one. I've never worked on a hydrostatic system before. Any suggestions and /or guidance with dis-assembly, online shop manuals would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Reggie
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Reggie-
It sounds like you have a leaky cork hydro gasket.
There's a nice write up in the FAQ on how Jerry replaced his gasket here:
http://cubfaq.com/corkgasket.html
Having said that, if you're going to tear this far into the tractor, it would REALLY make sense for you to get the service manual for your tractor. It can be found at the Binder Books link above.
EDIT: I guess the manual is also located here in the "manuals" section:
1X9 Service Manual
It sounds like you have a leaky cork hydro gasket.
There's a nice write up in the FAQ on how Jerry replaced his gasket here:
http://cubfaq.com/corkgasket.html
Having said that, if you're going to tear this far into the tractor, it would REALLY make sense for you to get the service manual for your tractor. It can be found at the Binder Books link above.
EDIT: I guess the manual is also located here in the "manuals" section:
1X9 Service Manual
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(Looks like Jerry types faster than I do...)
