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Archive through March 20, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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David S - that sure is a nice looking headlight assembly. I agree with Marty G that the bulbs need to be rotated 90degrees. Tell us your steps in applying the decal. I've done some and always end up with some bubbles.
 
Rick B. Nice little project Original.

Charlie P. I tried using the hardwarde store spirol pins on one of the Cubs years ago and found out that they don't have as many rolls in the coil and soon broke. BEFORE the new owners of the Cub Cadet dealership built their new store, I quickly went in and bought some of the OEM spirol pins.
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If you have a fleet of Cub Cadets, buy a bag of those pins from McMaster-Carr (search for coiled spring pins), as the bag of 25 is about the same price as about 3 of the pins from Cub Cadet (or at least that's what it was a few years ago...I bet Cub Cadet charges even more for them now.)
 
And while you are at it, order up some 3/4" shime of various thickness, they sure do a good job of tightening up the steering spindle on the NF's.

I stuck a .007 and a .020 in mine and got rid of all the up and down slop, then added all new tie rod ends, the ball joint type w/zerts, along w/the box rebuild and roller bearing install and now the steering is nice and smooth.

On the decals install, I did it dry.
I located the canter of the decal and the center of the panel both ways and marked them.
Then I pealed the film from the sticky side and laid it flat on the counter sticky side up, and carefully sat the panel down on to it.
Then took one of those soft tan erasers like the kids use at school, or used to anyway…
And smoothed it out, applying some pressure to bring out the texture of the bed liner.

The light bezels only fit one way, but I did notice the retainer slots that line the bulb up. There are 2 on each retainer, guess I just picked the wrong slot??? Twice??
 
A couple days ago I saw post on the snow thrower bearings. Well mine blew out afew years back and no time to wait for bearing mail delivery as snow was deep and more coming. I bought a brass bushing, cut inner one to bearing length and outer one alittle long. Drilled each to take grease and installed. In the outer bushing I drill 1/8 hole on the long part which protrudes and ran wire through it. That keeps it in place. Worked fine. I've had the new bearings a couple years now and one of these days I will remove the bushings and put in the bearing. Thrown a lot of snow with the bushings installed. Grease often. 😁
 
Dave - those shims sound like the same ones you'd use to remove the end play from the front wheels when you mount them on the spindles. I think this end play is the most overlooked maintenance issue on our Cubs, and it would save a lot of spindles and wheel bearings if people just did it according to the Service Manual.

Now, about your headlight panel decal installation, since I've only ever done it using dishwashing (not washer) soap I've still got questions. So you marked the center of the decal. From there I assume you mark the edges where the panel will meet the decal and be square. Otherwise when you set the panel on the decal you won't see the center mark and won't have any aligning points to reference.

Also, when did you trim the decal? I assume after you attached it to the panel? If you trimmed it before attaching then you couldn't see your centering reference marks.

And now, about the bulbs - the retainer "rings" do have the slots you mentioned and 2 of them must align with those bumped areas of the bulbs. You may have to rotate your retainer "rings" 180degrees in order to be able to rotate your bulbs 90degrees. Just work at it and you'll figure it out. (It's not as easy as the rubber bulb retainer rings used on the Quiet Lines).

Scott S - nice you know you got by a couple years using a bushing to replace those needle bearings. I'm wondering about your shaft wear and whether you're wearing slotted areas into the shaft where it rides against your bushing. Would be nice to see some pics if you get to it this year.
 
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Snow thrower with bushings instead of bearings. About 4 years running.
 

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Since I figured out how to do the photo uploads - here are a couple of an ongoing rebuild of a 106. Here I show shifter cup rebuild and shifter cup modification. This is my first manual tran unit to work on and the guy a bought it from said I would need to re-weld the cup. He was correct but I also added reinforcement to the assembly by drilling our a fender washer to fit tight on shaft and welding inside the cup on the concave side. This will distribute the stress across a larger area thus reducing the stress on the original cup-to-shaft weld. Hope it works.
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Scott - thanks for posting the pic of your snow thrower small chain drive sprocket assembly and the bushings you installed in place of the roller bearings. Looks like you've also replaced the sprocket itself with one having a larger diameter shoulder. I can't see if you added some shims to the sprocket and aligned the small sprocket with the large one while doing that, but it does certainly help save that bracket where the bushing is installed, and helps save the teeth on both sprockets. I suspect your bushings will hold up a long long time as long as you grease them diligently before each use. Because of the speed of the thrower I think I'm still partial to using the needle bearings but it's good to know you can use a bushing in a pinch.
 

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