• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through March 14, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Denny, there was a flat panel in that location on the 70/100, 71,1x2/3, 72,1x4/5 and 73,1x6/7 series as well. The flat version catches plenty of dirt, grass and what not too.

236519.jpg


236520.jpg
 
Don T - way up north - the day ain't over yet. Keep up the good work.

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - thanks for posting the shots where you can see the "Lower Frame Shield". Very important part to have installed. They often crack into 2 parts and get removed and never replaced. It does help keep debris away from the flywheel and off other important parts.

Now - with regard to your electronic air brush abilities, would you please go back and add the asterick and foot note
*NOTE: Excludes 1974 Limited Production Model 169.
IH had to have left this off the brochure.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and K341A's beat K341AQS's)
 
Dennis Frisk

I just set a battery in and connected it.I can hear a click from the voltage regulator when I connect the cable ??? Is this normal with the key off. PLEASE tell me I don`t have this wired correctly !!!
bash.gif
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
KRAIG - Yep, that's exactly what the panel on my 72 looks like, except on mine the thin strip cracked off by the steering arm slot so I only attach mine with three screws.

The cover with the trough, butted up against the oil pan so things couldn't fall out would fill up. The flat panel I made for my 129 I found actually handy for catching the solid dowel pin from the coupler on the engine. The tractor would stop moving, I'd shut the mower off, idle the engine a while, shut it off, reach down into the pan and get the dowel pin and reinstall it. It really didn't seem to accumulate much debris, if it did I could blow it out with compressed air in a second. Given half a chance things would escape off the back end of the panel.

DON - I pull the ground cable off all my tractors when I park them. There should be NO clicking until you turn the key to "Start". The solenoid should click. When you turn the key to "ON" the amp gauge may show a discharge... Maybe.
 
Denny, I think most of them have that thin strip broken off. I seem to recall that I may have sent an intact one off of one of my parts Cubs to Wyatt some time ago.
1a_scratchhead.gif


236524.jpg
 
Dennis - why don't you put some burrs on that dowel pin so it won't keep falling thru, or even a big dent at one end.

Kraig and Dennis - under the FWIW, if you have a good one without that thing strip cracked off you can drill a small hole and add a 5th screw just where the thin strip starts - the Cub Police won't see it either.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (when kept mostly intact)
 
Harry - There was a 169 for sale on Craigslist a few weeks ago in my neck of the woods, but it's gone now. Wouldn't have done me any good, the Wife/Boss has put a freeze on tractor spending in favor of buying groceries...
a_blink2.gif


I wouldn't mind adding to my fleet a 169, 782, 982 ....

Thanks!
Bill
 
Bill - I think there is a phantom poster out there. I've seen a couple of those posts for 169s. They show up, you get no response, and the post disappears.
As for the wife/boss, well, you already mentioned having thinned down, and I understand you have a Brinly plow, so I assume the plan is for those groceries to be growing in the garden, but with the 1650 up at the camp you need a slightly more powerful 169 to cover the garden chores.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and Kraig still needs to add an air brush footnote)
 
HARRY - I put a worm gear hose clamp around the drive coupling and that held the roll pin in for a while. Then the badly worn drive coupling worked the pin THROUGH the hose clamp so I welded up a stronger clamp from 1/8th inch thk steel.

Then I sold the 129 about 6 yrs ago. It was going to become a money pit again and I didn't want to rebuild stuff again.

KRAIG & others have posted pic's of drive couplers that were worn, the straight slot wears into a "L" shape, but mine was worn as bad or worse than any I've seen. I could have removed the coupling and welded the slots up and re-ground them but grinding another pair of slots would have been easier. That 129 & K301 Kohler had been over a LOT of acres mowing before I even got it. It was the main mower for a lawn service somewhere around Moline, IL for many years. The engine was already .020" O/S on the bore when I rebuilt it about 1993.
 
Sorry Charlie - my comment "and the post disappears" was in regards to a Craig's List "post" that Bill mentioned.

Back to Bill's question(s) again, don't you find it interesting that his "Quick Question" leads to a book of answers, which leads to other questions and other answers. That's what's so great about this Forum.

Dennis - just goes to show my most standard closing comment applies.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (they just find another resting place)
 
Kraig, It says "Even with the encloser". I think the special ducting they spoke of was the muffler box. It more dirrectly points the exhaust air from the cooling fins past the residule heated air from the muffler out the front grill. Keeping that air from recirculating back around the engine. You can't cover a heat source and expect it to run cooler.
I'm not saying a sales brocher is lipstick on a pig. More like lipstick on your sister.
happy.gif
 
lurking.gif
I`am hoping some one can tell me why with the switch in the off position when I connected the battery I could hear the regulator click. I tested and marked all the wires and used the fancy coloured wiring diagram on the main page ?
when I did turn the key all I get is a click and the starter gen does not turn. The battery is at full charge. Something that I did see I thought was odd , I think the amp gauge should have shown me a discharge when I did turn the key. Is that a correct thought ? I`am lost as to what could be my problem with the wiring after having checked all the wires so many times with a meeter. HELP Please .
1a_scratchhead.gif
old.gif
 
Don T, You are correct, the amp gauge should show a discharge when cranking. What worried me more about your post is that you heard the regulator click as soon as you hooked up the battery.
 
I don,t do NFs but ditto for what Dave said, about regulator clicking when battery was hooked up. Maybe a bad ignition switch is what I thouhgt
 
Jeff, Don, I'm turning over in my mind, which is more likely on a tractor reassembly --a failed component or a mis-wired component? I think it is likely that some thing in the harness is connected incorrectly.

(As a side note, we must remember whose tractor we're talking about here, it seems to be part of Don's character that he takes one step forward --wiring the tractor; only to take two steps back --burning out a component. But there's hope. He's taking it slower now, so maybe he can correct the situation before any real damage occurs.)

Sorry, Don. I couldn't help but give you a little the "dig."
smile.gif
 
Hey everyone,

I have a few new pictures of the '68 124.

I put it to work the other day hauling stuff around the yard.

236537.jpg


...and it did such a good job I sanded and painted the hood. Not sure if it's the "official" white, but it looks better than it did before.

236538.jpg
 
Dave R - I'm not speaking for Kraig, but there may be a case for what you say since I believe other manufacturers used Kohler AQS engines on other tractors that may not have had side panels or full enclosures - so the AQS engine with it's "muffler box" may run cooler than Kohlers that didn't have a muffler box.

Don T - way up north - when all the wiring is done correctly and all components are working properly, the amp gauge will show a discharge (or at least the needle will move that direction) when the key is turned on "and the points are closed". I can't really speak to the symptoms of what your overall issue may be but it would seem you may have a wire reversed someplace - and I hope you aren't burning the voltage regulator. Is it as simple as you reversed the + and - contacts on the amp gauge? The gauge is marked and it's easy to connect the wires in reverse of what they should be.

Tim Z Z Z Z Z Z Z - (under edit) Great to see some more shots of that 124. The hood does appear to be the official white primer. That's a great little improvement, and you may be surprised but sometimes those little things really make the tractor "seem" to run better.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (even way up north)
 
rebuilding my 1450 cadet, first time rebulid for myself, bored out to .10 over, installed new piston & rings, turning engine over it takes some effort to turn over by hand by grabbing crankshaft,this may be normal for a new overhall & wear in over time,is this common.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top