Archive through June 30, 2007

[cbusch]

(I hope this question wasn't posted twice...)

How does one rebuild an electric lift?
The one I got on ebay a month ago has a very stiff bearing on the bottom. So it basically doesn't work. I popped the top cover off to inspect it and oiled it up. However, I can't get the brushes and the cover back in. I don't see how it could be done. The springs eject the cabled tied brushes. I've messed with motors a ton of times and never has one been so difficult. They either have inspection holes or the springs aren't so long and allow one to put it together. At this point, I am thinking of drilling holes in the round steel body to allow me to use twist tie wire to secure the brushes, drop it in place and remove the wire and presto, brushes in place.

I think the gear is good.

Any ideas? Do you know who rebuilds/refurbishes electric lifts for a reasonable fee?

 

[mmiller]

Henri,
The bucket is on the trailer too. It's so rusted out it's only good as a pattern for a new one.

 

[mmiller]

Chris,
I took one apart a few months back. I was able to get the brushes back in place by putting them into their holders. Then, holding them in place with your fingers, set the end cover into place as best you can. Then take a small screwdriver and retract the brushes one at a time until the assembly will drop over the armature. It took a couple of tries, but it will work.

 

[jlarsen]

On my 147 lift i took the brush cable over the back of the holder and slid it off with a small screwdriver when the brush is on.

 

[kweaver]

Norm - I don't have one so I was just going by grommets in general. I do have some here that size though that I took off computer cabinets hence the electronics links. Hey, I tried

Chris - I've not had one but on a lot of motors I use fishing line to pull back the brushes. Sometimes it either takes three hands to do it and put it together or a real big loop around one knee and two hands. That's how I do the power trim / tilt motors on my boats.

 

[rbedell]

Norm B:

Check with McMaster-Carr on their catalog page 3626.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

 

[kweaver]

Roland - You know as much as I've ordered from them I always forget about them for some reason! That was the only place I could find the rivet tool when I was doing brake pads.
Charlie's CRS keeps rubbing off

 

[csanderson]

JWeaks- If you've got a right-hand thread, then to get the nut off, the direction is counter-clockwise.

 

[nbartee]

Thanks Roland,

I checked with them before but was only looking for the .875" size. Went ahead & ordered the 1", I'll just make the hole bigger. Was only $8.50, but had to order (50). If anybody else needs a grommet this size, I'm your man!

 

[gcoleman]

Figured out whatll work for my side links on my 3 pt. I went to ACE today, and bought two 350 lb rated turnbuckles and they fit the 5/8" pins perfectly. I painted the bodies, and the body on my top link. Now all I need to do is make the lower lift arms. How long should I make them? I was thinkin somewhere around 20-24", but I don't know for sure... and then I need to modify the cub rockshaft so that I can use it to lift the arms...

 

[bbrigham]

Got a question about my project O. The service manual states the rear axle bushings are bronze with a steel casing. Is there any reason I couldn't use a bushing without the steel casing? McMaster has some for like $5 each. Not tryin to be cheap but I can sure use the $15 each savings else where on the O.

Bren

 

[mmiller]

Brendan,
The original bushings have a lubrication hole that lines up with the grease fitting on the axle housing. They also have grooves cut on the internal surface to distribute grease across the bushing. I used plain bushings and cut my own grooves on a lathe. If you can't do that, you would be better off using the original equipment...it will last longer.

 

[jthompson]

Glen,

Looks like what you've got will work, but just thought I'd pass on that Tractor Supply sells all of the parts for 3 pt. hitches. I'm planning on building one myself and have been to our local TSC as well as our JD dealership which is also a HUGE farm and garden store. Both have hitch parts.

 

[bbrigham]

Thanks Mike, I seen they also had some with the groves in them but didn't check for sizes on those. Will have to trim them for length but thats ok, I do have a lathe to use.

Bren

 

[mgonitzke]

I've almost got the 50C for my 782D done, just need to grease it and get some Gator blades and I'll be all set. This was my first experience painting with a gun, so don't look too close.

 

[digger]

Matt,
Looks pretty dang good from here. Well done.

 

[gcoleman]

Jim, I don't have either store near me (TSC/JD), and the only JD place only carries CAT 1 stuff.
Soooo, I want to build the arms, I just need the dimensions. I will however check the website.

 

[digger]

Glen,
Kraig posted all that info for you just last month, did ya miss it?
CLICK HERE

 

[kmoe]

Glen,
Before you use those turnbuckles, dissassemble the right handed thread end and put a nylock nut on it. I used one turnbuckle like that to adjust the point on a Bolens plow that I use behind my 70. Without a nylock nut the turnbuckle will want to readjust itself.

 

[kweaver]

Glen - There's more to it than just saying how long you want to make the implement arms. They need to be pivoted ahead of the top link pivot to get the proper geometry and the longer you make them the more weight you're lifting. The same for the lift rods, the further forward they are on the arms the more it works against the lift.
On my home-made tractor I have the pivot on the arms on the same vertical plane as the top link pivot plus I made them to short. That doesn't allow them to have a good flowing arc travel going down to sink a turning plow deep even though I pulled two turning plows for several years it was always a pain as I'd either stand on them or add weight to keep them deep. I just made it to where I could get enough lift to clear the ground good and wasn't thinking about getting the depth I wanted.