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Archive through June 25, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
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Kraig McConaughey
Mike B., is it this part? It is just clipped onto the brake rockshaft, there is a roll pin that the hole in the clip goes over, this is to prevent it from rotating on the shaft.

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192803.jpg


Here's the part number info:

192804.jpg
 
Nick H., oh, I'm quite sure that there's plenty of Cub Cadet related stuff that I don't have photos of... yet. I'm working on it.
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Denny, here's two photos of a "windowed" K321 that was in a parts 149 that I bought from John Buszkiewicz way back in 2003. Probably not a good candidate for your Plexiglas experiment though.

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KRAIG - Looks like a hand gernade went off inside that block!

I've got a selection of used parts for K181, 241, 301 & 321 engines. Rods, some pistons, and a big shoebox full of new spare gaskets. Be neat to try to take video of it running. Not sure how lighting would work.

I almost think at 3600 RPM, that's sixty swipes of the oil flinging finger into the sump in the pan a SECOND, that there's not much liquid oil ever in the crankcase and most lubrication is by oil mist or vapors.

I was always going to install an oil temp gauge on a Kohler along with a cyl. head temp. & EGT gauge but never knew where it should be placed. The sensing bulb for the oil temp would have to be in "liquid oil" or it'd be worthless. BT-DT with water temp gauges before. Also not sure EGT would be worth it due to the pulsing of the exhaust.
 
I would like to halve a oil temp gage for my 122 and a cyl head temp gage if you put the oil gage in the bottum of the oil pan would it work? Where would you put the cyl head temp at?
 
Kraig:
Thank you so much for the info. I will order the part.
Mike
 
Dennis Frisk

Thanks for that info. I will go and buy some key stock and get my loader running next week.I hate to have it not running as it does come in handy around here.Have a GREAT DAY
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Lucas-

Read Dennis's post right before yours...

Oil temp? Probably 220-230 degrees would be my guess. Much above 250 and you'd probably be in trouble.
 
LUCAS - Most head temp gauges I've seen have a ring shaped thermocouple that installs under the spark plug. From information I've gathered from researching all different types of small air-cooled engines, most head temp's should be 325 deg. F for long term durability.

Conventional oil does bad things with extended time at 250 deg. F and higher. Synthetic oils can handle higher temps but since a sizable percentage of cooling of an air-cooled engine is done with the oil, to run over that temp is probably over-heating parts.

Like my other post said, the sensing bulb for temp gauges has to be submersed with the liquid it's monitoring. Some sensors can get rather big. Not sure where they need to be mounted. Not sure what normal operating oil temp is in a Kohler but I suspect 200-240 degrees.

Most if not all professional high performance engine builders agree that maximum HP is realized when intake combustion air is cold but oil is warm, almost hot, in that 200-240 deg. range.
 
What may be a silly question...

782D, new engine mounts, do you just tighten them up until you feel them stop (metal on metal)? That what I think I had to do with the old ones but the new ones look a lot different.

Thanks,

K
 
Dennis-

That 250 degree-limit sounds right to me, too. I think the Lycoming engine in the Cessna 152 I flew (when I had money and time) had a maximum allowable oil temp of 245 degrees. Anything more than that would mean an 'unplanned stop', and hopefully at an airport...
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To ease this back on topic...gonna have to use a cub to tow our MacKissic chipper/shredder to where we have a bunch of tree debris to grind up.
 
MATT - Have a very good friend who tried to feed his addiction to flying with R/C planes for several years and now owns half of a Cessan 152 I think it is.

I wish more plane or ultralite engine instruments fit CC's & Kohler's. I've looked at kart racing instruments. Son was crew chief for his Frat's Gran Prix race team @ Purdue and brought the cart home for a couple weeks. 125 CC Yamaha non-shifter cart. It was a real "POOCH" out of the hole but would run 60-80 mph once moving. The digital engine display on it was RPM, cyl. head temp, and MPH if I remember right.

Sounds like you got some WIND out of all these evening storms this week. Thankfully we just got rain, lots of rain.

You going to wear "SANDALS" running the chipper?
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(haven't seen Art post for a while....have to POKE him!)
 
Maybe we could get Dave Kirk back to give us some insight on the oil temp in Kohlers. I seem to recall he knew some engineers at Kohler and had that kind of info. I believe that was when they were doing some early testing with the synthetic oils.

Gary S - well, ok then. Fully understand about taking care of that important stuff. Thanks for letting us know. I've been refilling my crankcase after all my blood loss, but should be ok in a couple days - hopefully you'll have gotten thru everything by then.

KenTUCK - are you talking about a Throttle SHAFT?

Lucas - well glad to see you posting a little more. I kinda thought you might have run away. KenTUCK seems to think I'm pick'n on ya, but it just ain't so. I got nothing again any Gear Head guys.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but slush boxes really run forever)
 
Matt K:
Let's see if one of the "D" experts is around... I thought I knew the answer from the Quietline cradle mod FAQ, but I'm not sure if that applies to your mounts and I can't find an '82 service manual in my collection of PDFs right now....
 
I checked
Kubota D600B Service Manual.pdf
782D Operators Manual.pdf
They don't mention mounts
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Thanks Ken,

I have both of those too, I don't have a service manual for the chassis though.

They're really expensive for what they are, I want to make sure I get them in there right!

K
 
Ok, now I been thinking (which could be a problem)

Lucas and all you Gear Heads - I realize I missed out on a few years of the Forum here, but I've got no clue how to search my question. I'm wondering if someone has put a 14hp K321AQS into a Gear Drive Quiet Line (800/1000/1200) or one of the earlier xx8/9 series wide frames (or an 86 for that matter). Is the clutch and drive line set up is strong enough to hold up, without having to beef anything up with aftermarket pulling stuff or similar. It's only a couple more hp. Seems to me it should drop right in and go as soon as you turn the key. Can you guys help me out here. I don't ask often, so please be nice. (I promise I won't start popping wheelies on a QL with the aluminum front grill housing that's 40# lighter than the cast iron versions)

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (so this is your chance to slam some gears)
 
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