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Archive through June 16, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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ekincaid

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Ethan Kincaid
Hydro-I figure if semi synthetic 5-30 is good enough for a new 40,000 Chevy pick up truck it would be good enough for a "vintage"tractor LOL.
 
That new 40K truck will be long dead and gone and that "vintage"tractor will still be around and probably still running!
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My new toolbox for college, cant wait to use this summer to work on my cubs then go work on full size tractors.

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Ethan: On the oil issue, I used the Cub Cadet Low Ash straight 30 weight for years and thought I was doing pretty good. The exhaust valves stopped sticking and my oil consumption went down. Two springs ago I drained my oil but then I couldn't find where I had put the Low Ash oil, so I used 10W-30 full synthetic. My oil consumption went down still further, and better, the oil has stayed much cleaner.
I'm a full synthetic guy now. I still change it once a year, but I make sure I have the oil on hand before I drain the crank case!
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Full synthetic in everything plus "Energy Release". And remember, it's a surface modifier.....not a lubricant.

David
 
Had everything out of the barn for an open house-good excuse to get a photo. Brothers Super A with our model 40 IH people mover, my IH 782, my 77 Scout SSll, 856 pedal tractor, my 69 IH 1000, brothers 63 Cub Lo-Boy. Should have stuck my 72 out there for the yellow and white representation - maybe next time.
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So I ran to my cub cadet dealer this morning to get sae30 oil I was going to pick up a case of the cub cadet stuff like digger posted...he told me he didn't have any of the cub cadet low ash oil but he had the Kawasaki branded sae30 weight I only grabbed for quarts of that.will that be ok or should I have had him order me some of the "cub cadet"branded oil....I think it should be okay see as how some of these more modern Cubs have Kawasaki engines in them I believe
 
Ethan - well, it looks like I got shot down recommending straight 30W. All the posts seem to be recommending the multi-grade synthetic stuff. I see David Q even says the synthetic oil is a surface modifier, not a lubricant.

I'm and Old Timer and went thru the "Great Oil Debate" back in the days of the old Forum (BTGC). (If you do some searching you can find out what BTGC is). I won't make it thru another one of those debates but I'll just be sticking with the straight 30W.

Make sure you let us know if changing to the 30W has any affect on your blow-by.
 
Marty-

I just talked with my friend and told him about your 128. I also said you had a bunch invested as he does. His will be close to what yours cost in the end. I had a 149 with a vertical stack by the shop to refuel the day he came over and he was impressed with the stack.

During our talk I explained about everything I have found so far and that I wasn't trying to make a mountain out of a molehill but... His attitude was 'well, I've gone this far and I need it so...". So I now have the go ahead with about 200% humidity in which to get it all done.

Hydro-

Did I see on the national weather you're in the 50s today?

.
 
Hydro- no worries I'm going to change Iron Patriot and my 125 over to straight 30 without old timers we wouldn't be here
 
Wayne,

I am working in my basement today on my 100.
Too dang hot/humid to work outside.

Harry,

I agree with you on the 30W oil. My dad always used it (Havoline 30W) in his IH truck,
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and I have always used it in my 30 year old truck with no problems.

I have around 275,000 miles on my truck, and have never touched the engine.

I'm not downing synthetic, but the straight 30 has worked flawless for my dad and me in older vehicles/engines.

Newer vehicles have tighter tolerances, and require different oils. I'm not sure 30W would work in them.
 

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Harry, the product "Energy Release" (ER) is a surface modifier & is amazing. Syn. oil is, of course, a lubricant. Sorry if my wording was misleading.

David
 
Austin E. Nice toolbox. Be sure to keep it locked so your tools don't disappear.

Paul W. Very neat display that you setup.
 
I've been running this for a couple of years with good luck, full synthetic 30W. Keeps my vintage equipment mowing.

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My 128 clutch driven plate just failed after less than 6 hours of use. The previous one was about 4 years old.

Thoughts as to what when wrong here? I thought the welds looked skimpy but installed it anyway.

Interested in hearing others thoughts here. I have had the tractor for over 15 years, redid the clutch when I got it, again in 2013, and now two failures in 3 weeks.
 
Ethan - I have to correct my post a little. It wasn't all the posts recommending multi-grade. There were a couple on the previous page. Charlie was recommending the low-ash which I suspect your Kawasaki stuff is.

David Q - no problem.

Wayne - heha, yup only in the 50's. Started to sprinkle a little so I stopped working outside and started fooling around with some of my external engine parts so I can get my engine back into my 169. Anxious to hear and feel it run - put in a David Kirk balance plate and took out the grenade gears.

Joe Z - any chance you can post some pics of your clutch? Sounds like you used the later style since you mention "welds". I thought that clutch was only used in the Quiet Line series. I'm mostly a Hydro guy so you'll have to wait on the Gear Heads to advise you. I did think you could use the old style clutch but not sure if you have to change the pressure plates to if you do.
 
Brian,

Nice 100! What size and brand ags are on it?
Do they mess the yard up any while making sharp turns?

Joe,

Sounds like you have an alignment problem or inexpensive aftermarket parts.
Are you sure you put it back together correctly?

As Harry mentioned,pics will be a big help.
 
Marty,
Those are Firestone 23x8.5. I love them, gets me in and out of ditches, almost never spin a tire. Sharp turns are no issue unless I turn uphill on a steep slope really quick, in which case they will dig in if the ground is soft enough.
 
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