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Archive through June 11, 2010

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David G., the amp gauge was optional on the 72. If you have a volt meter you could check the voltage at the battery with the engine off and with the engine running. With the engine off the voltage should be around 12 volts. With the engine running it should be higher, closer to 13.8 volts.
 
Kraig McC., -- Do you think he was hinting around for one of us to send him camera batteries?
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Ryan, if so he should have mentioned the type. AA, AAA, Lithium Ion, NiCad, special type or?
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Denny
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Frank:
MMO's been around since 1923.... Really popular in the 50's, especially with OHV engines with poor top end oiling - they sold a "top end oiler" that ran off the engine vacuum and had copper lines that ran into the top end rocker arm chamber of the engine. I don't think Stabil has been around that long (they're history was probably lost in one of their acquisitions....) If you start looking, most fuel stabilizers are a light oil, that floats on top of and seals the surface of the fuel, preventing evaporation...

Kraig: Probably Lithium....
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What a constant source of information!
BBQ, anyone?
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KRAIG, RYAN - It's some "SPECIAL" flat lithium battery about 1/8" thk by 1" square for my HP digital camera. You know how bad HP sticks it to Us that have HP printers? The same marketing people price their camera batteries. I replaced it just about a year ago now.

ANYHOW, I'll make the trip to BB tomorrow, get a battery and send the pic's to Kraig so he can post Monday hopefully.

The modifications weren't hard, used a very old Rockwell (now Porter-Cable) CHEAP saber saw with a cheap metal cutting blade, AC arc welder that's older than My DAD. Little 1/8" thk steel, mostly scraps. Most of the deck modifications required little if any extra steel, the pieces cut off were reformed or moved and welded back but in a different configuration to make the mods. The added steel was used for the front edge lip and baffles only. Ohhhh, I had to make four little brackets to weld to the front face of the deck from 1/4" thk steel, drilled & tapped 1/4"-20 threads.

Think I also put the spherical frt gauge wheels on at that time too. Since no kit ever existed I built my own and welded them on.

Nice thing about those IH 38" & 42" decks, they're stamped from heavy enough steel you can arc weld them with 3/32" rod and not blow holes through them. Welding with 1/8" rod might be a problem however. I can't ever remember ANYONE mentioning having to weld up cracks in a 38" or 42" deck like is common on the 44 & 50 decks.

The deck isn't real pretty anymore, it's been over a L-O-T of ground but still mows really nice. The replacement center spindle with the ST-745 bearing even runs good. I think Dad bought the deck I borrowed it from in about 1978-1980 to replace the CI end deck that came with the 70 in '65.

ERIC T. - re: ported Hydro from 782 onto a 127. Since they're both IH spec Sundstrand 15U hydro's I'd say YES, but unless you add hyd. lift you'd have to plug the outlets on the 782's hydro. Someone who's played with swapping hydro's more than Me will have to suggest how to accomplish that. Most hydro swaps are to gain the ports for add-on hyd. lifts. I haven't checked the parts look-up by the fittings may still be available. All your control linkage, trunnion, pivot, etc. up to the arm coming out of the hydro unit would have to be installed on the 782's unit from your 127. Also be a good time to replace the hydro gasket that Gerry wrote up with the new IMPROVED gasket.
 
Well I installed the new points and condensor on the K181 today. I tried to judge how the old timing was set and the points were opening way to soon. I tried Matts static timing and it worked good for a novice like me. Put everything back together and it started right up much easier than before, although it wanted to be choked more than I expected, but hey it started. I could hear an odd (air)noise and carefully put my hand down by the head and could feel the air movement from the shrowd, but also some real hot air. I popped the head off hoping it would simply be a blown head gasket. Here is a photo. I am still a novice, but I imagine there is no hope for this head, so I guess I am on the lookout for another K181 head. Could this have been my original reason for overheating?

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Hi,
I have a chance to get a sound #2 tiller complete with gear box.
I was wondering if anybody could tell me how well it might work on my 105?
I guess I would need a 3 point hitch and some way to raise or lower it.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
The 169 was lacking traction so it was time to weight the ole girl down just a little.
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I had Aaron from Xtrememotorworks.com make a set of 2 1/2" wheel spacers for a little wider stance. Man I'm liking those wheel studs instead of bolts!
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CHARLIE - Do Your friends @ WFM know your hogging all their starter & wheel weights?

Think Wyatt & I put studs in place of the lug bolts on one of his CC's. Just threaded Grd 8 bolts from the inside of the flange, then added lug nuts. Forget if it was his 169 or his 72. They do really help when swapping wheels.
 
Kraig
It was for both reasons and I can get a 782 hydro unit for less and right now it is all I can find. I wanted to take the old one off of the 127 and rebuild it and I was going to get the one from a 782 to use but the more i thought about it the more i liked the idea of adding hydro lift.
 
James & Kentuck

I have a head from my K181. I believe it's the original with the cooling fins pointing toward the exhaust. I just sand blasted it but the side holes for the air baffles are striped out. Is that a welding job or a JB weld job? Anyway I'd hate to give up a spare but if your in a bind let me know.

Anyone run into this before?
How did you repair yours?
 
Can anyone explain how & why that would happen to a head? Why that particular spot and how does it work through to the outside? Wild!

Your not burning Nitro are you James?
 
Well the wife wanted to go play in the dirt,
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Then she claims it needed head lights,
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THEN she complained it was light in the front end and needed weight up front.
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James M.,
From looking at the picture it appears the head gasket is still sticking to the head. If so, take it off and then see how much damage you have.
 
Bob P. I would like to know myself to stop it from happening in the future. Taking a novice guess I'd think that maybe the PO didn't torque the head down properly or that he didn't notice a small headgasket leak, and it just kept burning the head. It is quite a trough. My downsized photo doesn't do it justice.
Hopefully somebody will shed some light on this problem.
 

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