Archive through June 05, 2006

[kmcconaughey]

Bobby, I can email some instructions, they are to large to post and if I reduce them to post you won't be able to read them. It'll be 3 files with a total of about 700KB in size, let me know if you want me to send them.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on June 07, 2006)

 

[ctrost]

roland-

the lack of pressurized oil system/filtration on the KT's can lead to lubrication problems, and you know what happens then----KABOOM!

users with steep mowing angles will see this problem more, and faster than flat-only users.

(Message edited by ctrost on June 07, 2006)

 

[rbedell]

Colin T:

Is this the difference you are referencing?

 

[pkordik]

At the risk of ridicule and scorn, I am going to ask anyway. What is the size/part number for the mower belt for my 1250 w/ a 44A mower deck?

The one I just bought with out the help of the members here came apart after one complete mowing, seems that I bought the worng size. I spent $15.00 to avoid the scorn and bought a generic belt. I think it was 1/2", not 3/8" So, there is a local dealer that may have the correct belt, but I want to be armed with the correct IH part number and size. Please help! I looked all over but can't seem to find the info. I am sure someone will point out a rather obvious location for such info, but darn if I can find it.

 

[rbedell]

Paul K:

No ridicule or scorn from me.

The IH- 59971-C1 Belt is 3/8" x 78"
The IH-117465-C1 Belt is 3/8" x 79"

 

[agitch]

I've always thought the KT's are pretty tough engines. I've had a 782 and 682 with series I motors, both with close to 800hrs when I sold them. No major maintenance performed, no smoke. I always kept up with the scheduled maintenance on them so I know that helped. If well taken care of should last as long as the commands. Parts should still be very simple to get. I believe the Series II is fully pressurized (read of few threads on this) with the lack of oil filter, but on some Series II blocks you can add the remote oil filter.

 

[rbedell]

Adrian:

I have a friend of mine with a 1980 model 682 with a Series I in it. Never had a problem other than minor maintenance and tune ups.

IMHO, I can't see where the KT bashing is coming from.

 

[agitch]

Roland, I figure when my current Mag18 is due, I'll have it rebuilt and enjoy another 15 to 20 years. I had once been interested in a repower with a Command or Honda but I would save money with the rebuild over the purchase of a new engine. Plus the KT's and Mag's have some good torque to em and of course you can keep your tractor original.

 

[charrin]

Bob Mavian:
I just went through a similar issue with my recently rebuilt 1250. It would lose power after 15-20 minutes of running. Replaced the coil and condensor, both likely causes. Check your coil resistance when it is hot before you waste your money- a recent post shows approx 4,000 ohms positive to negative terminal, and about 12-14K going fron either pos/neg to the center high tension post.
My issue was rather simple- and overlooked. I finally replaced what appeared to be good points, gapped the new set and new plug properly, and it is strong as a horse again for as long as I run it. My old set of points had a very odd discoloration, but no pitting. Anyhoo, that was the root cause of my weak spark, which was causing my loss of power. BTW- get some electrical contact cleaner to make sure that the points dont have any contamination on them.

 

[mgonitzke]

Roland, Adrian-

I don't think they're the worst engines out there, either. I had a yellow and white 782 that had a seized engine. I put in a used rod, cleaned the aluminum off the crank, honed the cylinders and put it back together, not knowing what to expect. It started and ran great with no smoke, and the hourmeter was showing over 1000 hours. Now I just have to find a red 782 with a blown engine one of these days so I can get this engine off the garage floor.

I'd prefer the Mag 18 because my yard has some not-so-flat places. I was also told by my CC dealer that nearly all parts for the series I's are NLA. However some Mag 18 parts are useable. You can use Mag 18 connecting rods in a KT-17 if you drill the oil hole in the rod cap.

 

[dphelps]

Richard C
what odd symptoms for a blown head gasket. not the old spot of oil in the front with little puffs of smoke. It might be interesting to see what Bob M finds.

Richard, your profile still states you're retired. Did you get a job taking pictures on cardboard for Haynes? those were always good pics... Dave

 

[hlinden]

Bobby B. I fixed my worn keyway by basically "knurling" the key. Keys are cheap so this is something to try. Use a pointed drift and put several dents in the keyway, both sides where it fits into the crank. This makes the key slightly wider. Also, use a long key as Dennis recommended. Use a clamp to press the key into the groove. Do not tap it in as you might brinell the bearing race. Anyway, this should tighten it up. The key is much softer than the crank so you cannot harm the crank. Simple to try.

Harry

 

[rchristensen]

David P.
I finally broke down and changed my profile. I had forgotten how working full time gets in the way of the fun stuff. I used to spend weeks adjusting my mower decks just to have the perfect cut. Now I just mow the D^** grass. Don't have time anymore to build fun stuff or take pictures, I try and read this forum regularly but seldom have the time to post anymore.

 

[pkordik]

Thanks for the help.

 

[sblunier]

Just back in the house......after a 6 day, 3 state, 2 country, 1390 mile vacation to Port Huron, MI, Niagara Falls Canada, and Dearborn, MI.

Port Huron had a very nice maratime theme and we saw some awesome Great Lakes freighters, etc.

Niagara Falls was amazing and well worth the trip!!(but roads in Canada suck...wow was that a rough ride!!!)

The Ford sites in Dearborn were also very interesting, BUT the F-150 assemble plant tour was the crown jewel of the Dearborn trip!!!! The line was in full production making S-Cab and S-Crew F-150's when we were there, super cool!!!

Now, since we chose to drive the 400 miles back from Dearborn this evening, I have a "free day" tomorrow....just perfect for plumbing up all of the new hoses on the loader, getting a drive belt for the pump, making some levers, and testing it out!!!!!

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - Did you make it to the HENRY FORD Museum? or DEARBORN VILLAGE? It's actually worth the trip back to Detroit. You can spend about at day or more at each..... Kinda like the FIELD MUSEUM in Chicago only Bigger! The Oakville Ont. FORD truck plant would be neat to see.... My '78 & '87 F-150's were both built there.... My PSD was KC built.... I wanted to visit the plant and watch it be built but I'd have gone to the wrong plant.

RICHARD C. - I've heard this "WORK THING" is grossly over-rated for the time required but it does keep Me for accomplishing a LOT more work and making messes at home in the shop.

 

[jhillegass]

Terry B.

Nice work on the tiller. New white paint makes 'em look good. Did you happen to take any pictures of the chain case when you had it open to inspect the chain?

I have a 1A, from the outside, it seems the chain is pretty worn/loose. I'm curious to know what yours looked like.

Jerry

 

[tcbusch]

Jerry,
Sorry no pictures. I was concerned about the sloop until I opened the case. There are two chains. The top chain is a #50 and the bottom chain is a #60. There is side to side sloop on the chain as thought the chain is wearing out but that size chain is very strong. I figured it will last a long time. They didn't design in chain tighteners. That's why the chain is loose.

 

[mkopishke]

Update on the knock...

I found out that I did install the rod correctly (the notch is on the same side as the oil hole so my old manual held true), so I went out today and started it up to see what I heard. There is some sort of knock from idle up to 1/3 throttle, from there on there doesn't seem to be anything. Now that idle to 1/3 (pretty much the low speed jet) noise could be anything since the old tractor is just a rocking and a rolling (those k341s sure do shake) so I'm going to assume for the time being that I'm just suffering from overly cautious ears.

I've got about 4 hours on the engine now so I'm going to do a change the oil and see how things go from there.

 

[aowsley]

Matt- hope everything goes ok. when i do a major rebuild or anything that requires removing the engine for internal work, i always run it before i reinstall the engine in the unit. that way i know, if i got a noise, after i install the engine, its probably unit related. T