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Archive through June 03, 2012
- Thread starter fcurrier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Depending on your mechanical ability, replacing the head gasket isn't particularly difficult, but it needs to be done right, if you want the new gasket to last. It is a good way to get your feet wet learning to work on engines though. There are a couple of bolts attaching the upper tins to the head, and 9 bolts on Kohlers up to 14HP, and 10 on the 16HP Kohler which bolt the head to the block. The head bolts themselves are Grade 8 bolts, and if they need to be replaced, be sure to specify that. You should also borrow or buy a torque wrench, and have a gasket scraper at hand.
Replacing the gasket is pretty straightforward, remove the bolts holding the tins, then remove the head bolts themselves and remove the head, taking care not to disturb debris and let it drop into the cylinder bore. While the head is off, it is a good idea to decarbon the head itself, the piston top, and the area around the valves. Bring the piston to TDC before doing any of this work.
Examine the gasket, you should easily see where the gasket blew out, and also check the mating surface of the head for any damage. If the engine was run hard and was allowed to continue to run after the gasket started to blow, the hot gasses can burn a channel through the head, turning into scrap aluminum.
The gasses blew out the bolt hole here.
The gasses blew a channel through the mating surface of the head. You will need a skilled aluminum welder and some machine work to save this head.
If you want to get the new gasket to last, you should make sure the head is flat. Place the head on a flat glass plate, and try to place a .003 feeler gauge between the head and the gas plate. If you don't have a set of feeler gauges, a single sheet of copier paper is about the right thickness. If the head fails the feeler gauge test, flatten it by wet sanding it on a piece of 320 grit Wet or Dry sanding paper placed face up on a flat piece of glass. Once it is flat it is ready to use.
Install the new gasket and snug up the head bolts finger tight. Use the torque wrench for final tightening using an alternating pattern, so you don't tighten all the bolts in one location. Tighten the bolts to 25-30 foot pounds, or 300-350 inch pounds. After tightening the bolts initially to the specified value, wait a few minutes and go through the sequence again before buttoning up the rest of the job.
Replacing the gasket is pretty straightforward, remove the bolts holding the tins, then remove the head bolts themselves and remove the head, taking care not to disturb debris and let it drop into the cylinder bore. While the head is off, it is a good idea to decarbon the head itself, the piston top, and the area around the valves. Bring the piston to TDC before doing any of this work.
Examine the gasket, you should easily see where the gasket blew out, and also check the mating surface of the head for any damage. If the engine was run hard and was allowed to continue to run after the gasket started to blow, the hot gasses can burn a channel through the head, turning into scrap aluminum.
The gasses blew out the bolt hole here.
The gasses blew a channel through the mating surface of the head. You will need a skilled aluminum welder and some machine work to save this head.
If you want to get the new gasket to last, you should make sure the head is flat. Place the head on a flat glass plate, and try to place a .003 feeler gauge between the head and the gas plate. If you don't have a set of feeler gauges, a single sheet of copier paper is about the right thickness. If the head fails the feeler gauge test, flatten it by wet sanding it on a piece of 320 grit Wet or Dry sanding paper placed face up on a flat piece of glass. Once it is flat it is ready to use.
Install the new gasket and snug up the head bolts finger tight. Use the torque wrench for final tightening using an alternating pattern, so you don't tighten all the bolts in one location. Tighten the bolts to 25-30 foot pounds, or 300-350 inch pounds. After tightening the bolts initially to the specified value, wait a few minutes and go through the sequence again before buttoning up the rest of the job.
Getting my 1200 ready for the Fredricksburg tractor show this weekend. I ordered the missing steering wheel decal, but while I've got it opened up/waiting for it to come, is there anyway to align the steering wheel correctly? (decal spoke upright/on bottom?) Or is this how it should be when the wheels are turned straight?
Also, is that bolt serving as a button on the lift arm original?
Also, is that bolt serving as a button on the lift arm original?
fcurrier
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- Jul 5, 2004
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
We don't have to worry about the Archive Bug for awhile.
Not every Cub Cadet has to be restored. Sometimes, and this is one of those sometimes, you have to take one and say "this is mine to play with":
This 149 came in here totally unannounced in late 2010 with my next door neighbor who'd bought it in Upstate New York. I didn't want it at the time.
Then he threw a guilt trip on me and said he'd bought it "for me" and I should pay him for it. We did - the $400 he'd paid for it and $100 for trucking it 640 miles. It's name is Matthew and it's my reason for saying that $500 for a 149 is a very reasonable price to pay.
Not every Cub Cadet has to be restored. Sometimes, and this is one of those sometimes, you have to take one and say "this is mine to play with":
This 149 came in here totally unannounced in late 2010 with my next door neighbor who'd bought it in Upstate New York. I didn't want it at the time.
Then he threw a guilt trip on me and said he'd bought it "for me" and I should pay him for it. We did - the $400 he'd paid for it and $100 for trucking it 640 miles. It's name is Matthew and it's my reason for saying that $500 for a 149 is a very reasonable price to pay.
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- Allen Schumacher
Frank, nice!
<font size="-2">PS: how many 'beverages' will that ammo box hold?</font>
<font size="-2">PS: how many 'beverages' will that ammo box hold?</font>
Clark, the spoke that gets the decal points down with the wheel straight ahead. The good news is that you can get within a few degrees, since the steering wheel is mounted on a fine splined shaft. The bad news is that you have to remove the steering wheel, a difficult task to accomplish without screwing it up. In the FAQ, there are some helpful tips to help you out.
If you are serious about making it pretty, you need the correct lift arm. It should have a button with a smaller locking button on the side of the handgrip. I have an extra which I removed from my 129 when I upgraded to a hydraulic lift. If you want it, send me a message off-list.
If you are serious about making it pretty, you need the correct lift arm. It should have a button with a smaller locking button on the side of the handgrip. I have an extra which I removed from my 129 when I upgraded to a hydraulic lift. If you want it, send me a message off-list.
Clark, the steering wheel should be pointed straight down at your gentleman's area when the wheels are straight (about 6 o clock, instead of the 9 it is now.) As far as the lift bolt, it is not an original piece.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
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- 812
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- Binder 1650
Making a bit of progress today with the 1650. Added Dave Kirk's Super Steer Kit to the tractor. Much easier than removing the engine...
Clark - my 1650 steering wheel is in need of a cover like yours and the steering wheel is in the same rotation/location like your 1200. I'm interested in the answer to your question too.
Clark - my 1650 steering wheel is in need of a cover like yours and the steering wheel is in the same rotation/location like your 1200. I'm interested in the answer to your question too.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
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- Binder 1650
Quick question - how much front axle play should I have on my 1650? I can move the front axle side to side a bit, it's not sloppy, but noticible. Is there a rule of thumb on this, a distance from the pivot point and a measurement of end play?
I'm wondering if I need to pinch the cross member per the CC FAQ's or am OK.
I'm wondering if I need to pinch the cross member per the CC FAQ's or am OK.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
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- Binder 1650
Jeff - I don't have the engine back in the tractor so the steering is not fully weighted, but as it is, it feels very smooth - like power steering.
I have another color tractor that has a gear reduction box on the steering and it is really easy to steer. This mod feels the same.
I have another color tractor that has a gear reduction box on the steering and it is really easy to steer. This mod feels the same.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Aww, Allen.
Several. A sponge works as a shock absorber.
Although some of my Cubs have mower decks, they're not lawn mowers. I don't really have "lawn" (as someone recently said). I'm "mowing" mostly what a Farmall H, a Stihl chainsaw, my wife's tolerance and I have reclaimed from Mother Nature. If I don't keep at it, Mother Nature will take it back. Thus, the reason for our "little TRACTORS"
Several. A sponge works as a shock absorber.
Although some of my Cubs have mower decks, they're not lawn mowers. I don't really have "lawn" (as someone recently said). I'm "mowing" mostly what a Farmall H, a Stihl chainsaw, my wife's tolerance and I have reclaimed from Mother Nature. If I don't keep at it, Mother Nature will take it back. Thus, the reason for our "little TRACTORS"
George C.
Re: Posting Pictures
First, save a copy of your picture(s) (less than 100 KB or usually 800 x 600 or less in pixels). This can be done in Windows XP by right clicking on the open picture, select resize, select small or medium). Windows saves a copy in the same folder with the original with the same name + (small). There is other software available to do this as well.
Next, begin your post in the box at the bottom of the page. When you wish to insert a picture, hit Enter so that the picture will be on a line by itself and at the left margin. Then select Upload Attachment, then Browse for the small copy of your picture and select it. The software will upload a copy of your picture file to the server and insert something like "image{file name}" into your post. Go ahead and hit Enter again before typing or adding another picture.
If you have done it right, you will see your picture in your post when you hit Preview/Post Message.
Good Luck!
Re: Posting Pictures
First, save a copy of your picture(s) (less than 100 KB or usually 800 x 600 or less in pixels). This can be done in Windows XP by right clicking on the open picture, select resize, select small or medium). Windows saves a copy in the same folder with the original with the same name + (small). There is other software available to do this as well.
Next, begin your post in the box at the bottom of the page. When you wish to insert a picture, hit Enter so that the picture will be on a line by itself and at the left margin. Then select Upload Attachment, then Browse for the small copy of your picture and select it. The software will upload a copy of your picture file to the server and insert something like "image{file name}" into your post. Go ahead and hit Enter again before typing or adding another picture.
If you have done it right, you will see your picture in your post when you hit Preview/Post Message.
Good Luck!
tmcgonagle
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- Jun 1, 2012
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- displayname
- Todd McGonagle
I know those extended inner race bearings well. I sell bearings and own a machine shop. I have no doubt I can fix this as soon as I have time. (hopefully before the lawn needs mowing again!!!)
I have some steering issues too, but I'm willing to live with that until after I try it out.
On an unrelated note. I can't decide if it looks cooler with or without headlights. Currently it does not have them and I rather like the blank out panel with the IH in the middle.
Thanks for all the clutch tips!
I have some steering issues too, but I'm willing to live with that until after I try it out.
On an unrelated note. I can't decide if it looks cooler with or without headlights. Currently it does not have them and I rather like the blank out panel with the IH in the middle.
Thanks for all the clutch tips!
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Todd: Lights: Good if you have to use your tractor at night. Good for resale value. I stuck a pair on Matthew because I had them here but it's quite a difference having them hanging out on either side instead of having them where they belong.
