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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Lucas,
No, IH did not make any Cub Cadet demonstrators, although there were some IH farm tractor demonstrators with gold hoods. There was an IH demo team that put the "new" 123 Hydro thru it's paces, that used 123's painted with stripes an cat faces on the grills, but the tractors were never sold to the public
 
LUCAS - Yes, IH made GOLD Demonstrator tractors, gold hoods & trim with red chassis BUT Cub Cadets were NOT one of the Gold Demonstrator models. They were ONLY 1970 model year FARMALL & International tractors, seems like they were all 544, 656, 826, 1026,& 1456. Most of the 544, 656, 826, & 1026 were Hydro's. I may be forgetting a model, seems like there may have been 756's or 856's.

There's a couple guys over at the RPM forum who have almost the complete line of Gold Demo's. SMOKER 1 had his collection @ RPRU in Madison last year.

As always, dealers or prior owners have painted their tractors in many different ways. A complete list of tractors painted as Gold Dmeo's at FARMALL does unfortunately NOT exist.
 
Don T. : Sit up and pay attention. If I'm going to go through the process of relaying something over to you, you might's well get it from me in the first place. That said, I've got 2 pumps in the cellar - 1 ported and 1 not ported. I've had one of them apart and can't remember which. What if I send you the front of the ported one and you do the changeover and post lots of pics - like when you were working on the DOG.
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Now to Penny, the 123 that quit on Sunday, changed points, went again, mowed hard another 1.5 hours today and quit again. I'm going to blame the coil this time. I think. She's sitting out back cooling off while I eat lunch. Does anyone see any way that by taking the + wire for the + side of the hour meter off the + side of the coil that that could hurt anything?
"Frank, I think we've found one of your problems." Maybe Dave Ross will expand on this comment from Sunday?
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Frank that was a good natured ribbing not ment to do anything but give you a hard time. On a more serious note. If I did something like that and almost imediatlly had trouble on the same circiut, mabey taking that off ain't the worst idea. Just to see if the problem goes away. I don't know why it would cause a problem either, but it's just to wierd to ignore.
 
KRAIG - Unfortunately, The Smokers had enough semi's to haul all those Gold Demo's home last year. I'd have gladly stored a couple for Him! for a few months! ;-)
 
Frank:
Electrically, no, as long as the wire is large enough to handle the current draw (which for an hour meter is almost nil) there is no reason not to use the + terminal on the coil as a voltage source point. However, you may have insulted the Cub gods in some other way, in which case, ALL BETS ARE OFF!!
 
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

Not a problem here Frank , I will post lots of pictures the same way I did with my diesel. Now its just the $$ you need for the pump and shipping,let me know what you need.
On the Coil issue, older Dodge cars had a resistor on the to cut down the voltage and that would work on a Cub no problem. I think I have one here just in case I need one and can`t get a proper coil.I will soon order the power steer unit and have it shipped over, I`am in not much of a hurry because it won`t be till this fall when I get back at my tractors. I need to paint the fenders from the 1811 I got from you for my diesel and lots to do on my 1961 O.I will have lots to do this fall with what I have planned.
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Don:
I'm pretty sure it would work. What Dennis and I were talking about was how to get a full twelve volts while cranking. You COULD go with a Ford style starter solenoid that has a separate terminal that's hot only when cranking and bypasses the resistor or simply get a small SPST relay that was wired across the terminals on the resistor and closed while cranking. As a matter of fact, this might be a good mod for us cold weather guys to get a hotter spark while trying to start the engine in the winter (there is no resistor bypass on the stock coil..). David Kirk knows the answer for this one, I'm sure.. The main thing if you're not running a point saver is not to go over the design amperage capability of the points..
 

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