Archive through January 16, 2011

[wshytle]

Thanks a bunch Kraig. I had no knowledge of those springs until now. I guess that's proof you have to own something to really get to know it. One other thing I have noticed is there are no trip springs/mechanism on this model. Should I plan on flying over the steering wheel if I hit a stump?

Tom-

I gather these springs are about as useful as the pto anti-rattle springs. That's good because they are long gone from this blade.

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle
(Should I plan on flying over the steering wheel) I dought that you could get traction as you bury that blade.

 

[rodsmith]

As we are on the subject of attachments, does anyone know much about these brinly rakes?
I found one and would like to purchase to set behind a CUB CADET at our local show, and maybe even use.
ROD

 

[pvanbenschoten]

Another PTO question, or two...

The wear button was missing from my 127. I have always kept the PTO engaged so the clutch lever would not rub on the thrust button. This was OK until I bought a CC42 snow thrower. (Thanks Lewis!)

I removed the PTO, rebuilt it and installed it. I also put on a new fiber wear button.

Now the two buttons do not line up. The clutch with wear button is a little lower than the center of the thrust button. I don't see anything under the engine to make it sit higher than normal

You can see that the wear button is a little deformed from hitting off center. <font color="ff0000">Is this a normal situation?</font>

I am not sure if it is related, but when disengaging the PTO, the snow thrower will continue to spin. Not as fast, but it never stops. I have adjusted the turnbuckle so there is only a small gap between the two buttons when the PTO is engaged.

I believe I have the levers and spring adjusted correctly with the gauge that came in the rebuild kit. Should I look into taking it apart and doing the adjustment again ?

Thanks
--Paul

 

[dtanner]

Paul Van Benschoten

I would have to ask how you have the three small springs adjusted. I have found that the tool is not need to check adjustment if you can see threads visible above the nut when your ready to install the PTO. Also a bronze PTO button is the answer instead of a fiber button I have found .

 

[pvanbenschoten]

Thanks Don. I used the Fiber button because that is what I had on hand. I will be placing an order for many things someday, and there will be several bronze buttons in there. I have other PTOs to work on.

There were an equal amount of threads on each of the three adjustment screws. About 1/8 inch. I should have taken a picture before putting the PTO back on the motor.

 

[rodsmith]

PAUL,
Just a thought, but was this lined up before?
Maybe your PTO rockshaft has worn at the frame where it pivits? This might let it drop down.
From your pic looks like it is even just dropped down.
ROD

 

[tstewart]

Logging season is upon me so had some questions...

Has anyone used a cub to skid logs? I've been toying with the idea of building a log arch but I'm already having traction issues getting up the big hill with a dump cart load of rounds. Dragging a log might not work. Then again the dump cart isnt balanced well and going uphill tends to unload the wieght of the rear tires (the floating hitch straps dont help either, got to get the locking ones). Maybe if I designed a log arch so that its got a good amount of weight on the hitch it might help alot.

So what do you all think? Too much for a cub? Would a log arch work, or any other suggestions?

If a can't drag logs I need a bigger cart, 12.5 dump cart just doesnt hold enough per trip. And it would cost me as much to buy/build a bigger cart than a log arch so thats where I am at.

 

[klejeune]

Paul V,
Adjust it to where there is more gap when disengaged. Sometimes too much pressure on the thrust button will cause the disc to make contact and spin the pulley.

 

[sblunier]

Paul,

Do as Keith said and open up the gap some. You only need enough contact to open up the plates, you don't need them burried.

A quick test would be to "tease" the PTO into gear while at medium idle and see if there is a "sweet spot" where the thrower stops spinning before the clutch grabs...then open up the gap until the "off" position on the lever corresponds to the sweet spot.

If it drags all the time, try a little less spring tension and double check your rebuild.

If all else fails, slip it a very little bit under load (carefully, and only a little bit at a time) and see if that helps.