mgonitzke
Well-known member
Norm B.-
Heat shrink tubing.
Heat shrink tubing.
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Archive through January 15, 2011
- Thread starter mgonitzke
- Start date
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wmakowicki
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- Nov 17, 2010
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- Wayne Makowicki
Kohler 12 HP pulsating governor question. I have a 1200 with a K301, I replaced the exhaust valve, carb was pulled cleaned, new float seat, gaskets. When I got the machine someone had just rigged it so it would only run WAY above 3600RPM. It now idles well and works ok at lower RPM but when I open throttle it pulsates. If I use my hand to hold the linkage at the carb it runs nice at whatever RPM I hold it at. I got a new spring from local guy is it perhaps wrong spring rate?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne M.-
Do you have the spring in the correct holes (3rd from the bottom on the governor arm, 2nd from the top on the throttle bracket, I think) in the linkage? If it is hunting, you may have the spring in the wrong holes, or the carb may not be adjusted right.
Do you have the spring in the correct holes (3rd from the bottom on the governor arm, 2nd from the top on the throttle bracket, I think) in the linkage? If it is hunting, you may have the spring in the wrong holes, or the carb may not be adjusted right.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
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- Allen Schumacher
Wayne M., also look in the second set of FAQ's (Charlies FAQs) and look at #42...RE: idle adj. Got 2 engines on other 'things' to work a lot better after idle adj.
jdiederichs
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- Nov 9, 2004
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- 659
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- Jim Diederichs
Norm, To expand on what Matt said, you can buy heat shrink tubing in various diameters to make a neater, better sealed terminal.
But...many suppliers of the stake-on terminals now offer an upscale terminal pack where the insulator (you know, the blue, red yellow sleeve) is actually heat shrinkable. Talk about a very clean looking terminal, these can't be beat! Not too much more $ than the cheaper terminals with the hard plastic sleeves either. I use thse new style ones in my shop every chance I get now. Not only do they look more professional, they provide much needed support for the wire's weakest point (where the insulation has been stripped)which results in much fewer "return" problems down the road. Around WI. they stock them at the Fleet Farm stores, NAPA and carQuest etc.
But...many suppliers of the stake-on terminals now offer an upscale terminal pack where the insulator (you know, the blue, red yellow sleeve) is actually heat shrinkable. Talk about a very clean looking terminal, these can't be beat! Not too much more $ than the cheaper terminals with the hard plastic sleeves either. I use thse new style ones in my shop every chance I get now. Not only do they look more professional, they provide much needed support for the wire's weakest point (where the insulation has been stripped)which results in much fewer "return" problems down the road. Around WI. they stock them at the Fleet Farm stores, NAPA and carQuest etc.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jim, thanks for the added info. I haven't seen any of those newer terminal ends with the built-in shrink tubing with the shrink tubing in black, which I'd prefer. All of the ones I have seen used some weird colors.
When I make a wiring harness, I use the crimp terminals, but first I remove the plastic sleeve. I then tin the ends of the wire with solder, then I crimp and solder the terminal to the wire, and then put the heat shrink tubing over it. That way there is no way those terminals are coming off.
When I make a wiring harness, I use the crimp terminals, but first I remove the plastic sleeve. I then tin the ends of the wire with solder, then I crimp and solder the terminal to the wire, and then put the heat shrink tubing over it. That way there is no way those terminals are coming off.
MATT - I'm the same way with all my wiring. I finally found bare terminal ends in boxes of 100 @ FASTENAL in town, but normally end up buyng the cheap blister packs @ Farm & Fleet with the plastic sleeves. I take the sleeves off too, use about an inch of heat-shrink over the wire and solder joint. Never had a connection fail doing this. And yrs ago I used to have to go from 22 Ga to 12 ga wire on reciever packs for our gas R/C cars. I made the jump in wire size in 3-4 steps to keep the 22 ga from breaking right at the joint, used several layers of heat shrink too.
My neighbor runs a well pump service, when he put my new pump in about 12 yrs ago He had some longer butt splices for the wires running down the well to the pump that had some sort of epoxy inside them that was heat activated just like the shrink tubing. Be nice if they'd make a smaller version of that for terminal ends.
Ohhh another tip, We bought a little refillable Bernzomatic propane torch for soldering. Unless your doing soldering on circuit boards this torch is the ONLY way to solder, instant heat!
My neighbor runs a well pump service, when he put my new pump in about 12 yrs ago He had some longer butt splices for the wires running down the well to the pump that had some sort of epoxy inside them that was heat activated just like the shrink tubing. Be nice if they'd make a smaller version of that for terminal ends.
Ohhh another tip, We bought a little refillable Bernzomatic propane torch for soldering. Unless your doing soldering on circuit boards this torch is the ONLY way to solder, instant heat!
Andrew D, Glad to hear you got your 147 going. I knew you would like it when you got it running. Frank S, Thanks for the laugh with your last post. Just catching up on my reading. Matt and Don, don't fight. Its only a Garden Tractor and you both give excellent advice. He can take it or leave it.
dennis, my name is tim, I am new here. you might want to check into something called solder sleeves. we use them on military work all the time. it is the same as a terminal splice except that it has a band of solder in it and activates with a heat gun, then the connection is air tight when done.
Joseph D.-
Go to the top of any page here and look immediately below the sponsors banners. Click on the FAQs then click on Charlies FAQs. There's a world of info right at your fingertips.
I learned the same way.
Go to the top of any page here and look immediately below the sponsors banners. Click on the FAQs then click on Charlies FAQs. There's a world of info right at your fingertips.
I learned the same way.
The new 1650 is running great,I found a few issue from the PO.The mount brackets for the cylinder for the hyd. angle were in need of fixing.The rear mount had ripped the metal where it attaches and the front mount pin was bolted to the inide of the swivel bracket,the pin must have been ground off and rewelded so the cylinder hung of the bottom resting on the cotter pin instead of resting on the block.
I had to straighten and weld the tunnel piece where the cylinder mount is bolted to and grind and reweld the pin where the rod end mounts to.
The bolt for the pivot was also bent quite badly so I straightened it out.
When I first got it I noticed that the operation of the angle cylinder was very fast and jerky.Now that the rod end is mounted in the correct spot,about 3.5" out from it was mounted the operation is not as jerky and is slower(normal).
Tim P. those solder sleeves sound like they would work great!
I had to straighten and weld the tunnel piece where the cylinder mount is bolted to and grind and reweld the pin where the rod end mounts to.
The bolt for the pivot was also bent quite badly so I straightened it out.
When I first got it I noticed that the operation of the angle cylinder was very fast and jerky.Now that the rod end is mounted in the correct spot,about 3.5" out from it was mounted the operation is not as jerky and is slower(normal).
Tim P. those solder sleeves sound like they would work great!
