Archive through January 11, 2013

[kostendorf]

David, your right I need to change the mounts. I have a hole on one side. Can I do this without pulling the engine all the way out?

 

[kostendorf]

When buying iso mounts why do some sets have 8 pieces and some have 4 or 2

 

[mgonitzke]

Keith-

The engine needs to come out. I would also add the cross-brace mod as shown in the FAQ.

The iso-mounts only come in pairs, so you'll need 4 sets. Expensive but totally worth it. Be sure to throw away the directions they come with and only tighten them such that 2 or so threads are showing through the nut on the original length bolts when you install the new ones.

 

[thoffman]

Looking for some opinions;
When rebuilding the steering gear do you think it would be better to pack the RETAINER/BALL ASSY with wheel bearing grease or a multipurpose grease?? Would using wheel bearing grease get to stiff/hard? I'm thinking the multipurpose migh be too light. Whatcha' think?

 

[junderwood]

Tom,

I use the Mystic JT6 wheel bearing grease when I rebuild mine. Same stuff I have in the gun to grease them, my mower spindles, and trailer. Haven't noticed any ill effects yet.

 

[thoffman]

John,
I'm a BIG fan of JT6, wasn't sure what other people think about bearing grease vs multipurposegrease. I like the "clear" JT6 because as you gearse you can see the old/dirty grease pushed out and know you got it in the right spot. I'm leaning to the JT6

 

[hydroharry]

Keith O - sorry this investigation lead to discovery of a problem, but at least if you only use your 1650 for mowing you got plenty of time to fix the ISO-mount situation. As Matt suggested I'd definitely do the cradle modification identified in the FAQ. Also, as Richard Christenson discusses in the FAQ (seems to be his update) you usually will find the original upper ISO-mounts are still good and can be re-used. I think I'd wait till you pull the engine and see the condition of your mounts before ordering your new ones. You can describe how flexible they are, post pics of them here and get opinions as to whether they are good enough to reuse or should be replaced. The do have metal covered by rubber on the larger circular area that fits into the ISO-bar, which tends to keep the bar in position. If this is worn/torn away they probably should be replaced. And if the rubber is to squishy they may need to be replaced. Hopefully you'll be able to use the old uppers in the lower positions, and only have to get replacements for the uppers. It also sounds as tho you're just starting to punch the hole in the lower part of the shroud, and you'll be able to figure out some method to fix/patch it. Now, I'm sure we'd all still like to know if you have the 13fin K341 block, and also still like to see a pic of the frame serial/build tag. I still think you might just have a correct product/kind code number rather than a replacement engine. I suppose there is a chance the original engine failed at or shortly after delivery and received a replacement 16hp, and then someone replaced the dash decal. Suppose we'll never know but it certainly is interesting.

Tom H - did you check the op manual? I think it probably calls out the multi-purpose. I don't recall the IH number for it off hand. And whats this PEPSI stuff. We're a COKE organization, and those of us with real guts drop salted peanuts in the COKE for a sorta peanut float (Jeremiah - did ya try it yet?). PEPSI and peanuts tastes terrible. (At least when I was a kid and tried it - YUK!!!!)

 

[nbextermueller]

All these new guys and pictures makes me want to go look for another project! I just saw an ad locally about a guy liquidating his 20 year collection of cubs...

Things like a 169 w/cozy cab, Supers, diesels, super diesels and attachments and parts out the wahzoo. Who wants to make a trip to S. Illinois with me? I'll even share the ad. Email me.

 

[thoffman]

Harry,
Do you mean IH 251 grease? I have a box full but it's warming the shelf right now.

 

[wshytle]

Harry-

You've crossed the line now. Being from NC where Pepsi was started I will just say Pepsi and peanuts rocks. Coke and peanuts just ain't the same and I CAN tell the difference. I don't know where the "Coke and peanuts" was started but I have shared many a moment with fellow North Carolina people and here it's always Pepsi and peanuts...PERIOD! I would bet that if you traveled through the south you would find more people saying Pepsi is the only soda for peanuts. I don't mean to sound argumentative but I'm from here and you're not.

Now, to keep things on topic...Keith, do what Matt suggested; it'll be worth your time and expense. It will also last another twenty years at least with proper maintenance.

 

[digger]

Tom H.
Here's today's version of yours.

 

[kostendorf]

I just purchased 4 sets . Man that hurts but I figure if any of the old ones are good I'll have spare parts.

 

[kostendorf]

I could count only 12 fins. And I got a clear pic of my serial no. on the tractor but the uload link won't work.

 

[dcharette]

Dave S. here is a pic of the potato digger,I put a 55 lb weight on the back of it to keep it down.

Tom H.
Notice anything similar on my 1650 to yours?

 

[thoffman]

Dave,
Yep, mine is a gear drive!

 

[jbliler]

Cannot get any snow here in Missouri. It is raining ice outside. Poor CCO could just retire!

 

[kostendorf]

This is clear as it gets...

 

[dmull]

Hey guys, I found the original M18 starter "refresh" FAQ, but several years ago I recall someone used parts from a newer motor to rebuild a M18 starter for good, the new parts addressed the problem of junk getting in the bendix. Anybody have the info?

 

[digger]

Ryan M.
You missed off topic Friday by one day man.

 

[jsalatino]

Can anyone give me advice on which head to go with on my k241 I'm rebuilding? I've got 2 headsl,both heart shaped with the spark plug hole in the middle. 1 head has the tall bolt bosses and the other has the short bosses. I did smooth out and polished the intake as little bit,enlarged it just a tiny bit,not much , also smoothed out & polished the exhaust. I've got a rebuilt #30 carb & new bushing.New valves,cleaned & polished crank, its gettin ready to get bored 10 over to clean up the cyl. What head would be better? I didnt wanna go with studs for the headbolts.There a pain sometimes to take off,unless somone can tell me where I could get good studs that you can install with a alle nwrench.I've been looking and cant find any that size So should I use the tall or short bolt boss head? Oh yeah I'm really thinking about doing a partial releif,like dave kirk describes on his killer kohler.Already have cleaned & took off all the casting flash off the fins. thanks for your help