Jonathan S.
IMO, High Boss heads are way better.
IMO, High Boss heads are way better.
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Archive through January 11, 2013
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Charlie... Ok thanks for the info, I think I did read somwhere the high boss heads had better cooling. IDK , maybe not. lol Still need to pick up a clutch basket or maybe a aftermarket one., I dont plan on putting a deck on this one.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Keith O - thanks for posting the good pic of your serial build tag. No question that's 0630 and you have a 16hp K341AQS. Well I suppose you should make sure you have a No. 30 carb and then you'll know it's a complete K341AQS - easy enough to check, just look straight into the carb with the choke full open and you should see the number 30 cast on the upper part of it. The 12fin block is the more common, and makes a good engine (not trying to imply otherwise just so you know). Also don't know why you don't have the Kohler Model and Spec sticker tag which should be right below the Serial No. sticker. You can see it quite well in the 2nd pic that David S posted on his K321AQS shroud. Just don't understand how you'd get a 1250 tag build June '77 tractor with a K341AQS engine I estimate as Jan/Feb/Mar build. That's tuff putting these tractor and engine numbers together except on the factory line. Still makes me wonder if 0630 should really be a 1650 production number. Good luck with your ISO-mount replacements, and let us know how you make out.
If you're looking for additional recommendations while you have the engine pulled, it's the best time to tighten the front axle channel (must be in FAQs) and also good time to upgrade the steering with David Kirk's SuperSteer Upgrade Kit. It's quite simple and includes a precision washer, external bearing and nylock nut. And 1 more thing - since it looks like your engine hasn't been touched and I assume you really don't know the hours on it, Kohler does recommend de-carboning the head every 500 hours. Carbon is the no. 1 killer of these Kohler engines (at least in my view). If you ahve the shroud and tin work off anyway I'd certainly have a look and see what you have under the head. Should probably get a new head gasket although some would probably reuse it depending on how it looks, when you don't know the age (and the engine look original to me) it would be best to spend the few bucks and get a new Kohler gasket. And if you do do this, make sure you torque the head bolts, run the engine about 20 minutes, let it cool and then retorque all the head bolts.
Wayne S - ok now, I'm not crossing any line. You'll always find me north of the Mason/Dixon. I got no problem you keeping all that Pepsi down there, and I'm sure those Georgia Boys wanta keep on shipping the Coke and Peanuts up north.
If you're looking for additional recommendations while you have the engine pulled, it's the best time to tighten the front axle channel (must be in FAQs) and also good time to upgrade the steering with David Kirk's SuperSteer Upgrade Kit. It's quite simple and includes a precision washer, external bearing and nylock nut. And 1 more thing - since it looks like your engine hasn't been touched and I assume you really don't know the hours on it, Kohler does recommend de-carboning the head every 500 hours. Carbon is the no. 1 killer of these Kohler engines (at least in my view). If you ahve the shroud and tin work off anyway I'd certainly have a look and see what you have under the head. Should probably get a new head gasket although some would probably reuse it depending on how it looks, when you don't know the age (and the engine look original to me) it would be best to spend the few bucks and get a new Kohler gasket. And if you do do this, make sure you torque the head bolts, run the engine about 20 minutes, let it cool and then retorque all the head bolts.
Wayne S - ok now, I'm not crossing any line. You'll always find me north of the Mason/Dixon. I got no problem you keeping all that Pepsi down there, and I'm sure those Georgia Boys wanta keep on shipping the Coke and Peanuts up north.
Harry,
That sounds like the list of work necessary for the Nightmare. I am still working on it, although the tractor is sitting under covers in the garage. It is way too cold to work on it or enjoy it, too.
Keith,
As you already know, the Quietline tractors are some of the nicest looking and are wonderful cruising machines. I have a lot left to do on mine, and Harry and others have been very helpful in the repairs, and encouragement when things get complicated. You have a wonderful machine, there, and doing what it takes to fix it completely and correctly is the best thing you can do for it.
Be well.
Brian Wittman
That sounds like the list of work necessary for the Nightmare. I am still working on it, although the tractor is sitting under covers in the garage. It is way too cold to work on it or enjoy it, too.
Keith,
As you already know, the Quietline tractors are some of the nicest looking and are wonderful cruising machines. I have a lot left to do on mine, and Harry and others have been very helpful in the repairs, and encouragement when things get complicated. You have a wonderful machine, there, and doing what it takes to fix it completely and correctly is the best thing you can do for it.
Be well.
Brian Wittman
TOM H, JOHN U. - I started out using Mystik JT-6 grease years ago, mostly because the tube said it was good for boat trailer wheel bearings, and DAD used it on his old IH 2M-E mounted corn picker. Dad said the JT-6 let the picker run about half a day picking before all the plain bushings started rattling where normal grease lasted about one trip across the field.
But in high speed ball & roller bearings, the JT-6 doesn't really lubricate well, and the bearings run hot. About every 2-3 yrs I'd have to rebuild the spindle bearings in my mower deck. When I had the frt axle in my '78 F150 rebuilt the son of the owner of the largest truck repair shop in the Quad-Cities did the work, and he found the frt wheel bearings I had repacked with JT-6 a year or two before had turned blue also, so he replaced them and repacked them with LUBRIPLATE #1202 grease. He recommended the Lubriplate very highly. So I switched. And even though I mow for 5-6 hours at a time with my old 38" deck I really can't remember when I last had to replace a seal or bearing in that deck. Been 20+ yrs at least. For slow moving bearings the JT-6 may be O-K, but a fast turning ball/roller bearing almost needs to be bathed in oil to be lubed properly.
On a steering gearbox I almost think a heavy oil like 85W-140 might be the right lube, if you can keep in inside the gearbox. That big hole in the side really doesn't have that great a seal on it. Maybe "Corn Head grease" which we've discussed may be the right stuff. You need something that flows back into the ball bearings and the machined groove carved in the steering worm after the follower pin slides by.
JOHNATHAN D.S. A #30 carb is really too big for a K241. They came with a #26. I have a #30 on my K321 and it's actually kinda big on it and it's 33% larger displacement than your K241. Depends on what you plan to do with the engine of course, but the farther away from stock you go the more finicky the engine will be. Also, for your head studs, you may want to look here, http://arp-bolts.com/ They make special stud installing tools, but most people just lock two hex nuts together on them and run them in/out with a ratchet & socket. Studs really are the right fastener for cyl heads, even on a Kohler.
But in high speed ball & roller bearings, the JT-6 doesn't really lubricate well, and the bearings run hot. About every 2-3 yrs I'd have to rebuild the spindle bearings in my mower deck. When I had the frt axle in my '78 F150 rebuilt the son of the owner of the largest truck repair shop in the Quad-Cities did the work, and he found the frt wheel bearings I had repacked with JT-6 a year or two before had turned blue also, so he replaced them and repacked them with LUBRIPLATE #1202 grease. He recommended the Lubriplate very highly. So I switched. And even though I mow for 5-6 hours at a time with my old 38" deck I really can't remember when I last had to replace a seal or bearing in that deck. Been 20+ yrs at least. For slow moving bearings the JT-6 may be O-K, but a fast turning ball/roller bearing almost needs to be bathed in oil to be lubed properly.
On a steering gearbox I almost think a heavy oil like 85W-140 might be the right lube, if you can keep in inside the gearbox. That big hole in the side really doesn't have that great a seal on it. Maybe "Corn Head grease" which we've discussed may be the right stuff. You need something that flows back into the ball bearings and the machined groove carved in the steering worm after the follower pin slides by.
JOHNATHAN D.S. A #30 carb is really too big for a K241. They came with a #26. I have a #30 on my K321 and it's actually kinda big on it and it's 33% larger displacement than your K241. Depends on what you plan to do with the engine of course, but the farther away from stock you go the more finicky the engine will be. Also, for your head studs, you may want to look here, http://arp-bolts.com/ They make special stud installing tools, but most people just lock two hex nuts together on them and run them in/out with a ratchet & socket. Studs really are the right fastener for cyl heads, even on a Kohler.
Question; I have a 149 cub and I am looking to convert it to hydraulic steering cheap. Found steering columns on ebay like JD. Wonder if it could run off the hyd lift lines and if it is in the archives and which archive. I am planning on using the cylider off the hyd lift for the steering. Do I need a pressure relief valve in the system etc. Thanks Mike
Dennis,
I am not familiar with JT-6 grease, so I am clueless to its properties. I do have to say that the Fords of the late 60's through the late 80's with Twin I-Beam suspenton were notoriously hard on wheel bearings, tires and ball joints. It was a good, strong system, but heavy and riddled with design problems. I am not surprised that you had problems. The four wheel drives weren't much better.
As for the Cadet steering gearbox, I don't see a way that a heavy oil would stay in it, because it is too open with only a loose seal. I think a medium pressure grease is the best, and renewing it occasionally with a grease gun is the best way to assure proper lubrication for the steering box. I don't think the grease needs to be that heavy or a high temperature rating.
August Heinrich used to say that we could grease things every day and it wouldn't hurt anything. In this case, a pump of the grease gun occasionally, and keeping the excess wiped away, the steering box, spindles and center pin should last forever.
My opinion and fifty cents won't buy a cup of coffee.
I am not familiar with JT-6 grease, so I am clueless to its properties. I do have to say that the Fords of the late 60's through the late 80's with Twin I-Beam suspenton were notoriously hard on wheel bearings, tires and ball joints. It was a good, strong system, but heavy and riddled with design problems. I am not surprised that you had problems. The four wheel drives weren't much better.
As for the Cadet steering gearbox, I don't see a way that a heavy oil would stay in it, because it is too open with only a loose seal. I think a medium pressure grease is the best, and renewing it occasionally with a grease gun is the best way to assure proper lubrication for the steering box. I don't think the grease needs to be that heavy or a high temperature rating.
August Heinrich used to say that we could grease things every day and it wouldn't hurt anything. In this case, a pump of the grease gun occasionally, and keeping the excess wiped away, the steering box, spindles and center pin should last forever.
My opinion and fifty cents won't buy a cup of coffee.
DENNIS...I havent looked on arp's website or anything. I've tried lockin 2 locknuts together to pull a few studs on another motor and didnt have any luck,its no big deal,but if I can find the studs i'm lookin for,i would use them.I'm not tryin to get crazy with this motor,that #30 carb might be too big for it, idk ,never tried one. I've got a 26 I plan on rebuilding also,thought I would try it and see what happens. I do have a walbro #52 that came on 1 of my 100's.. Can you recomend the best way to straightin out the axle mount on a nartrow frame? Whgat I mean is,when I tore it down,it got moved a lil bit from beatin on it? its not too bad,fixable,I did pick up a new axle pin,would a lil heat be ok,I dont think it would weakin it any would it? maybe use a vise with flat jaws so it doesnt chew up the bushing on it? IDK, any ideas,I know a pic would be better,I'm gonna try to resize my camera.
Brian W. My grandfather thought the same thing about grease. Didn't apply to friction knotters on the baler though. Service man was finally called, first thing he said was, "There is way to much grease on these to work properly."
Sorry Charlie! It is a 89hr 1812 BTW!
Sorry Charlie! It is a 89hr 1812 BTW!
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